Hello long time no post but I still lurk around from time to time. On our 09 tahoe there has been a bad popping in the rear end over speed bumps for a while now. I finally got around to working on it and replaced shocks and struts yesterday, still pops. Today I replaced the rear sway bar links and still popping. Everything is tight, I double checked, and the only thing I noticed is if I go over the bumps with both tires it pops, if I have either side go through the middle of the speed bump where there is a gap there is no pop. Suggestions?
Rear end popping
- Thread starter MBS1994
- Start date
Actually omw to get some. There was some play with my little crowbar so I'd imagine there's quite a bit with the force of the car going over said bumps. I will post back shortly with an update
Still popping but not ruling out sway bar bushings seeing as I snapped a bolt in half so that'll be fixed soon
As per @azswiss in Post #2 ...Here is a Clever Mechanic showing a simple way to confirm the problematic Anti-Sway Bar Bushings on a 2011 Tahoe (relevant for 2000-2017 Tahoes):
Thank you for replies everyone. I will be getting eazy outs soon to get the broken bolt out and if that solves I will make sure to post. Nobody likes a thread when the OP never clarifies the fix.
Drive Shaft U-Joints, and Slip Joint could also be the source.
I know the GMT360's had a thing about the Slip Joint causing a feeling like you were rear ended, wonder if the GMT800/900 had the same?
I know the GMT360's had a thing about the Slip Joint causing a feeling like you were rear ended, wonder if the GMT800/900 had the same?
gmcman
Member
- Dec 12, 2011
- 4,673
Check all 8 bolts of the 4-link rear "dogbone" looking arms.
Check for rust in the mounting points behind the wheel openings, lower arms I believe.
Friendly fyi.....don't keep cranking down on these bolts too much, get a torque wrench and/or check for loose bolts first, overtightening obviously only causes headaches.
Check for rust in the mounting points behind the wheel openings, lower arms I believe.
Friendly fyi.....don't keep cranking down on these bolts too much, get a torque wrench and/or check for loose bolts first, overtightening obviously only causes headaches.
Uggggh! Broke every drill bit I had, guess there's a reason unnamed store is so cheap, went and bought better ones. Start actually making progress with the drilling, insert bolt extractor, AAAAANNND SNAP. Drilled a bigger hole and put another one in and wait for it.....snap. I'm at a loss now and done getting certain items from said unnamed store.
If it isn't too much of a bother...take some well lit images of the areas on and around the damaged bracket. Ideas like using an Oxy-MAPP Gas Mini-Torch Kit to burn out the inner bracket Fastener and then just use a Bolt and Locking Nut Combo to sort it out comes to mind. These are fairly inexpensive and could work quite well in tight quarters for limited duration jobs like this one calls for:
Oxygen Cylinder(s) Required:
MAPP Gas Cylinders Required:
Welder's Torch Blanket like THIS One, but perhaps a Bit Larger:
Hand and Eye Protective Goggles and Gloves are also in order at ALL times whenever getting exposed to incandescently Hot Gas Welding Tools and Work Metals. And as ALWAYS... Keep an ABC Fire Extinguisher at the Ready.
Oxygen Cylinder(s) Required:
MAPP Gas Cylinders Required:
Welder's Torch Blanket like THIS One, but perhaps a Bit Larger:
Hand and Eye Protective Goggles and Gloves are also in order at ALL times whenever getting exposed to incandescently Hot Gas Welding Tools and Work Metals. And as ALWAYS... Keep an ABC Fire Extinguisher at the Ready.
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You may be able to get the broken ez out out by using a hammer and punch, just break it, then continue drilling. It is harder than the drill bit, so remove all of it.
Then try a left turning drill bit, it might heat it up enough to spin it out.
I would also suggest heating it up with a propane torch, then spraying PB Blaster on the other side of the bolt. The heat will help draw it into the threads.
Then try a left turning drill bit, it might heat it up enough to spin it out.
I would also suggest heating it up with a propane torch, then spraying PB Blaster on the other side of the bolt. The heat will help draw it into the threads.
Haven't worked on it still but have not forgotten. It's been a busy month between being on covid quarantine (negative test results), did some projects around the house, and busy work. Hoping to try again soon
6716
Member
- Jul 24, 2012
- 833
Hey, to revive this post, the rear-end popping I was hearing went away when I replaced the transmission mount. Which seems crazy, but it totally made it go away.
Basically I had taken the transmission down for a rebuild and when I put it back up my replacement mount was the wrong part but I was in a hurry so I put the old one (235k miles) back on. I finally got that part replaced a couple of months ago and it totally cleared it up.
Basically I had taken the transmission down for a rebuild and when I put it back up my replacement mount was the wrong part but I was in a hurry so I put the old one (235k miles) back on. I finally got that part replaced a couple of months ago and it totally cleared it up.
Didn't mean for this thread to go dark considering I even said no one likes a OP who never posts a resolution. It's been a crazy time. I currently have COVID, the wife just tested positive today, hybrid system is acting up so that's a way bigger problem, and also been doing some minor repairs along the way (new ignition and door hinge), still planning on getting that bolt out but it's a bottom list concern currently. I will check out the trans mounts though.
I have never had any luck with easy outs, even with drilling the bolt. I have either had to drill the bolt with progressively larger bits until I basically drilled out the shank and had barely more than threads left then use a small chisel on an angle and a mallet and cut into what's left of the old bolt and tap it cutting into the remainder and the threads of the broken bolt until I backed it out enough I could get a pair of pliers on It and finish the job. Or since buying a little stick welder and a little flux core welder I now soak it in PB Blaster penetrating oil overnight, tack a small bolt on that's slightly smaller, then heat the broken bolt and work it slowly back and forth tightening and loosening until I break it free from the rust and grime that has it frozen. It would be great if you could heat what it's threaded into then cool the bolt of really quickly so it shrinks. You can get a second where the bolt has shrunk enough that it's smaller than the hole and will turn. And by smaller than the hole I mean microscopically smaller. But it's enough to allow you to break it free using hot and cold expansion and contraction. It has worked wonders for me in the past.
Last popping I had in the rear was on a Toyota Tacoma and it turned out to be the U joints on the end of the drive shaft. It would slip slightly where it was pressed in and catch again. My daughters idiot boyfriend had been using it to tow vehicles with a tow strap when working for his dad as a road side mechanic. Needles to say he destroyed the rear end.
Last popping I had in the rear was on a Toyota Tacoma and it turned out to be the U joints on the end of the drive shaft. It would slip slightly where it was pressed in and catch again. My daughters idiot boyfriend had been using it to tow vehicles with a tow strap when working for his dad as a road side mechanic. Needles to say he destroyed the rear end.
The Trailing Arm bushings might be worn The mounts are known to rust and cause them to loosen