Rear end popping

MBS1994

Well-Known Member
Hello long time no post but I still lurk around from time to time. On our 09 tahoe there has been a bad popping in the rear end over speed bumps for a while now. I finally got around to working on it and replaced shocks and struts yesterday, still pops. Today I replaced the rear sway bar links and still popping. Everything is tight, I double checked, and the only thing I noticed is if I go over the bumps with both tires it pops, if I have either side go through the middle of the speed bump where there is a gap there is no pop. Suggestions?
 
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MBS1994

Well-Known Member
Have you checked the sway bar bushings?
Actually omw to get some. There was some play with my little crowbar so I'd imagine there's quite a bit with the force of the car going over said bumps. I will post back shortly with an update
 
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MBS1994

Well-Known Member
Still popping but not ruling out sway bar bushings seeing as I snapped a bolt in half so that'll be fixed soon
 

6716

Well-Known Member
I deleted the links and the bar, and I still get pops from the back. I'm starting to think it's the bushings in the arms and/or panhard bar.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
As per @azswiss in Post #2 ...Here is a Clever Mechanic showing a simple way to confirm the problematic Anti-Sway Bar Bushings on a 2011 Tahoe (relevant for 2000-2017 Tahoes):

 
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MBS1994

Well-Known Member
Thank you for replies everyone. I will be getting eazy outs soon to get the broken bolt out and if that solves I will make sure to post. Nobody likes a thread when the OP never clarifies the fix.
 

TollKeeper

Gold Supporter
Drive Shaft U-Joints, and Slip Joint could also be the source.

I know the GMT360's had a thing about the Slip Joint causing a feeling like you were rear ended, wonder if the GMT800/900 had the same?
 

gmcman

Well-Known Member
Check all 8 bolts of the 4-link rear "dogbone" looking arms.

Check for rust in the mounting points behind the wheel openings, lower arms I believe.

Friendly fyi.....don't keep cranking down on these bolts too much, get a torque wrench and/or check for loose bolts first, overtightening obviously only causes headaches.
 
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MBS1994

Well-Known Member
Uggggh! Broke every drill bit I had, guess there's a reason unnamed store is so cheap, went and bought better ones. Start actually making progress with the drilling, insert bolt extractor, AAAAANNND SNAP. Drilled a bigger hole and put another one in and wait for it.....snap. I'm at a loss now and done getting certain items from said unnamed store.
 

MRRSM

Lifetime VIP Supporter
If it isn't too much of a bother...take some well lit images of the areas on and around the damaged bracket. Ideas like using an Oxy-MAPP Gas Mini-Torch Kit to burn out the inner bracket Fastener and then just use a Bolt and Locking Nut Combo to sort it out comes to mind. These are fairly inexpensive and could work quite well in tight quarters for limited duration jobs like this one calls for:


Oxygen Cylinder(s) Required:


MAPP Gas Cylinders Required:


Welder's Torch Blanket like THIS One, but perhaps a Bit Larger:


Hand and Eye Protective Goggles and Gloves are also in order at ALL times whenever getting exposed to incandescently Hot Gas Welding Tools and Work Metals. And as ALWAYS... Keep an ABC Fire Extinguisher at the Ready.
 
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NJTB

Silver Supporter
You may be able to get the broken ez out out by using a hammer and punch, just break it, then continue drilling. It is harder than the drill bit, so remove all of it.
Then try a left turning drill bit, it might heat it up enough to spin it out.
I would also suggest heating it up with a propane torch, then spraying PB Blaster on the other side of the bolt. The heat will help draw it into the threads.
 

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