Anyone changed the rear AC device? I see things saying it has a TXV and some with an orifice tube?
Thanks,
JS
Thanks,
JS
Rear AC device
- Thread starter jsinga
- Start date
Mooseman
Moderator
The rear system has a TXV valve, the front has an orifice tube. Never heard of a TXV failing on one of these.
What are your symptoms/issues?
What are your symptoms/issues?
I'm chasing a leak. It leaks about a can a month.
I have looked over the system with an electronic leak detector and the only place I can get and indication is around the schrader valves.
I've run the AC with the leak detector in the vents and never get a beep. So I'm convinced there's no evaporator core problem. Also let it sit and probed the drains front and rear.
Last summer I changed the high pressure valve and got rid of the original ball valve that was leaking. The valve on the accumulator was sized up and wouldn't move.
I looked over everything with a UV light and I don't see anything, so I'm not sure dye is in the system.
I'm on the fence about putting dye in the system before I do anything else.
I ordered the complete repair kit with o-rings, accumulator, orifice tube and rear expansion valve.
Any suggestions are welcome!
JS
I have looked over the system with an electronic leak detector and the only place I can get and indication is around the schrader valves.
I've run the AC with the leak detector in the vents and never get a beep. So I'm convinced there's no evaporator core problem. Also let it sit and probed the drains front and rear.
Last summer I changed the high pressure valve and got rid of the original ball valve that was leaking. The valve on the accumulator was sized up and wouldn't move.
I looked over everything with a UV light and I don't see anything, so I'm not sure dye is in the system.
I'm on the fence about putting dye in the system before I do anything else.
I ordered the complete repair kit with o-rings, accumulator, orifice tube and rear expansion valve.
Any suggestions are welcome!
JS
Had a similar problem with the AC in my '03 Suburban. After adding a refrigerant I noticed the Schrader valve was leaking. Turned out to be a damaged o-ring at the base of the valve stem. Had both the high- & low-side valve stems replaced & now works like a charm.
Leaky Schrader valve on AC System charging port
Leaky Schrader valve on AC System charging port
THIS Tool Kit allows for the A/C Schrader Valve Core R&R WITHOUT the need to perform a Refrigerant Recovery and Re-Charge Procedure for under $25.00:
Also... If the Low Pressure Sensor-Switch located on the side of the Accumulator has been Over-tightened... IT can CRACK at the Base and also have a Refrigerant Leak ...AND IT TOO is easily Replaced:
The Schrader Valve is built into the neck of the Accumulator and the Spring Loaded Depressor Pad is INSIDE of this Replacement ACDelco OEM Low Pressure Switch:
As for going to the trouble of introducing any Leak Detection Dye... You might avoid doing any such thing by getting an inexpensive Refrigerant Leak Detector such as any that suit your Price Range from this Amazon Link below:
Just be very mindful that after you insert the Sensitive Detection Sensor Button into the Unit NOT to expose it to a Direct Blast of Freon... as it will INSTANTLY be destroyed and rendered useless. You will be able to very easily detect ANY Leaks using this king of apparatus... without the necessity of using any DYE:
Also... If the Low Pressure Sensor-Switch located on the side of the Accumulator has been Over-tightened... IT can CRACK at the Base and also have a Refrigerant Leak ...AND IT TOO is easily Replaced:
The Schrader Valve is built into the neck of the Accumulator and the Spring Loaded Depressor Pad is INSIDE of this Replacement ACDelco OEM Low Pressure Switch:
As for going to the trouble of introducing any Leak Detection Dye... You might avoid doing any such thing by getting an inexpensive Refrigerant Leak Detector such as any that suit your Price Range from this Amazon Link below:
Just be very mindful that after you insert the Sensitive Detection Sensor Button into the Unit NOT to expose it to a Direct Blast of Freon... as it will INSTANTLY be destroyed and rendered useless. You will be able to very easily detect ANY Leaks using this king of apparatus... without the necessity of using any DYE:
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Mooseman
Moderator
If you can't get the Schrader valve core out, I'd just replace the accumulator. I wouldn't touch the rear TXV valve. Not a bad idea to replace the O-tube. Of course anything you open is a good idea to replace the seals.
Well, I took moosmans advice, I left the rear alone.
Turns out the system already had dye in it. I looked all over with UV light and didn't find anything other than around the acumulator low pressure port and in the low pressure cutoff switch.
I decided to change acumulator and orifice tube. I got a kit from 4 seasons kit from Rock Auto.
It had all kinds of o-rings and seals with a rear TXV and 2 orifice tubes.
Of course, it didn't match exactly what I had.
It had a white and yellow orifice tubes. Our car had a blue orifice. I went ahead and put the yellow one in. It's .005 smaller. From what I found blue .067; yellow .062.
Looks like it makes the low pressure about 5 psi higher with a full charge
Everything was going OK until I tried to get the orifice tube out. I even got the tool that's supposed to hook on so you can pull it out. Tool was worthless. So out came the needle nose pliers. Next thing, it ripped the end off and wouldn't budge. I ended up pulling the high pressure line out so I could try and get what was left of it out. The old tube was everything but glued in. I poured some PAG oil on it and pried it back and forth until it broke loose.
When putting things back together, in all the o-rings there wasn't a seal for the high pressure line coupling down at the frame headed to the rear unit. I smeared it with nylog and put it back in. So far, no le
I was wondering if the orifice tube screen would be dirty. there were only a few small particles of aluminum on the screen and was just discolored; I could have left it alone. I had the system open and figured, look at it, 20 years and 250k miles and your not going to pull a filter out and look at it?
Hopefully, I cured the leak and it's good for another couple years.
JS
Turns out the system already had dye in it. I looked all over with UV light and didn't find anything other than around the acumulator low pressure port and in the low pressure cutoff switch.
I decided to change acumulator and orifice tube. I got a kit from 4 seasons kit from Rock Auto.
It had all kinds of o-rings and seals with a rear TXV and 2 orifice tubes.
Of course, it didn't match exactly what I had.
It had a white and yellow orifice tubes. Our car had a blue orifice. I went ahead and put the yellow one in. It's .005 smaller. From what I found blue .067; yellow .062.
Looks like it makes the low pressure about 5 psi higher with a full charge
Everything was going OK until I tried to get the orifice tube out. I even got the tool that's supposed to hook on so you can pull it out. Tool was worthless. So out came the needle nose pliers. Next thing, it ripped the end off and wouldn't budge. I ended up pulling the high pressure line out so I could try and get what was left of it out. The old tube was everything but glued in. I poured some PAG oil on it and pried it back and forth until it broke loose.
When putting things back together, in all the o-rings there wasn't a seal for the high pressure line coupling down at the frame headed to the rear unit. I smeared it with nylog and put it back in. So far, no le
I was wondering if the orifice tube screen would be dirty. there were only a few small particles of aluminum on the screen and was just discolored; I could have left it alone. I had the system open and figured, look at it, 20 years and 250k miles and your not going to pull a filter out and look at it?
Hopefully, I cured the leak and it's good for another couple years.
JS