Radio Cuts Out

[Photoguy_15]

I've been having a weird issue, the radio keeps cutting out. It will work for a few minutes, then just drop out. It's really annoying to use my tinny sounding phone for music on my commute, and since it looks like I'm stuck with this POS for the foreseeable future, I'd like to fix the issue.

The problem started the same time as I began having issues with the blower motor. Though I doubt they're related, as the blower motor was just wore out.

Did I mention how much I hate this POS?


Note, I did search with different terms and found nothing.

 

[Mooseman]

You know if you walk into a biker bar and yell 'Harleys are POS!', you won't live long. It's a 17 year old truck Just sayin'

 

[Photoguy_15]

You know if you walk into a biker bar and yell 'Harleys are POS!', you won't live long. It's a 17 year old truck Just sayin'

Well there's a difference between generalizing, and speaking about my own vehicle specifically.

If you have any input on where I should look, that would be helpful and appreciated.

 

[Mooseman]

True. Just tired sometimes of some of the bashing that happens.

The usual suspects with the ignition switch and grounds come to mind, especially the one on the tunnel.

 

[Reprise]

Think of it as 'opportunity'. Now you can put in a new BT-enabled head unit.

If you have the Bose, it has an external amp. I've had channels blow on two of them (heats up after a few minutes and then they get scratchy.) It's not that I'm pushing the amp hard (I listen mostly to sports talk radio, for crying out loud.) If I were to bet, I'd guess your amp might be the culprit. But that can be replaced, as well, of course, if you want an amplified system.

There's one other quirky thing that occasionally happens with mine -- it'll lose communication with the CANBus, and the only thing that will return the sound will be to shut the vehicle off & restart it. Happens with both the OEM and my replacement head unit, so I know it's not the stereo itself. And since everything comes back on on the restart, I know it's not the amp overheating, etc. Also, it loses comms at the outset, so that's more reason to not suspect the amp, for this.

Since that comms issue only seems to happen about 1 out of every hundred starts, I haven't spent time tracking it down, to be honest. And if I'm just running around town, I'll just wait until I get to my destination to shut down the truck.

No, I don't have any quantitative 'proof' that it's the CANBus; just a theory. I also can't remember if I lose my chimes when this happens (they're generated by the head unit (OEM) or by a replacement module (aftermarket). Hasn't happened recently, so I can't remember.

If you decide to replace the OEM system, get an aftermarket harness for the new HU. Makes things so much easier, and you don't have to cut / splice the wiring on the truck. Plug & play.

(on edit) Thinking about it, I *do* lose the chimes when that issue happens, and I never hear the stereo at all when it happens (it's so infrequent that I forget about it until I start the truck again.) Just 'fyi'

 

[Photoguy_15]

So a little update. It seemed to be working ok today, only cut out once. So I'm wondering if it's heat/humidity related as it was quite a bit cooler.

 

[Mooseman]

It's possible the radio itself is on its way out and cuts out when warm. I'd say maybe pick up another one at a pick-n-pull but that would require reprogramming of the VIN.

Or as suggested, a nice aftermarket unit would fit the bill.

 

[Maverick6587]

I've got an old 2006 radio from my 97x that still works perfectly. The black paint/plastic is coming off the buttons, but it still functions perfectly. I could mail it to you if you pay the shipping or you could pick it up if you live in Michigan.

 

[Photoguy_15]

In Ontario, and have a 6 disc radio out of my old Bravada (yes, I've had two). Not sure how to get the vin reprogrammed.

Thanks for the offer though.

 

[Mooseman]

You would need a Tech 2 or have it done at the dealer.

 

[Photoguy_15]

Ok. I'll see if I can find someone with a Tech 2.

 

[Mounce]

So how's the ground on the passenger side of trans tunnel look? Tight? Loose? Corroded?

 

[Photoguy_15]

So how's the ground on the passenger side of trans tunnel look? Tight? Loose? Corroded?

Haven't looked. Would have to get the truck on a hoist, unless it's inside.


Also it just happened again the other day, and I can confirm that the door chime doesn't work.



Further.... I just found something that seals the trucks fate. The mount for the upper control arm on the driver's side is cracked.

 

[TollKeeper]

The mount for the upper control arm should really be a non-issue. It takes 10 minutes of welding, and that includes prep and painting over at the end. Its easy to get to, and is an easy fix... That is unless the frame is so rusted there is nothing to weld to.

On the radio, I would bet its a AMP or Radio. The amp should be basically plug and play from a salvage yard if the radio is the same as the one you have. The radio, although initially plug and play, does require the Tech2 VIN reprogram.

 

[Photoguy_15]

Just had a chance to check the amp. There isn't one. I'm kind of surprised, I thought whoever had the vehicle last had just stuck in a cheap factory radio before trading it. Didn't realize the Bose system wasn't standard as my old one had it.



While I'm typing this, I might as well as whether or not the hord goes through the clock spring as I had to pull the relay because the horn would sound every time I made a right turn.