Questions about rear air suspension

Niklaus

Original poster
Member
Apr 18, 2014
37
I am sitting at 133k almost 134k miles right now, and not sure if the rear air suspension compressor is stock or not (car came from very cold climate)

My bags are fine, holding air. Compressor seems to run with no issues. Only issue is that the compressor rattles pretty loud but still works
I bought a Monroe conversion kit (just coil springs + senstrac shocks) and have kept it in my trunk for a while now.

What exactly will happen if the air compressor fails? Can I still drive (short distances) with what I assumed to be rear suspension sagging?
What is the typical mileage that these fail? I have heard around 100k-120k miles.

PS. Are there already upper insulators that I can re-use when converting or will I need a new pair?
 

jrSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
3,950
Niklaus said:
I am sitting at 133k almost 134k miles right now, and not sure if the rear air suspension compressor is stock or not (car came from very cold climate)

My bags are fine, holding air. Compressor seems to run with no issues. Only issue is that the compressor rattles pretty loud but still works
I bought a Monroe conversion kit (just coil springs + senstrac shocks) and have kept it in my trunk for a while now.

What exactly will happen if the air compressor fails? Can I still drive (short distances) with what I assumed to be rear suspension sagging?
What is the typical mileage that these fail? I have heard around 100k-120k miles.

PS. Are there already upper insulators that I can re-use when converting or will I need a new pair?
Yes you'll be able to drive. It'll just be bouncy as hell since your bumpstops will be riding on the frame.

Youll need to buy the upper insulators for the spring conversion because the bags "twist" in with nothing on top.

Your compressor will still try to kick on with you air bags out. Just remove fuse #1 in the fuse box under the hood. I left my air hoses and such...I didn't remove them.
 
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gmac310

Member
Dec 4, 2011
174
I also found that the shocks are a different part # for the air ride than the sprung rear end, must be a different length. AFAIK, you can run the original shocks until they need to be replaced but I figure since you're under there.
 

jrSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
3,950
gmac310 said:
I also found that the shocks are a different part # for the air ride than the sprung rear end, must be a different length. AFAIK, you can run the original shocks until they need to be replaced but I figure since you're under there.
I would imagine the shocks have a different dampening rate than the oem with bags.

My truck is lowered with a custom 30.5" lowering spring...with lowering shocks. I bottom out quite often so i purchased some helper bags that fit inside the springs and mounted the fill up in the little cubby door. (No more bottoming out) Looks good and looks factory.
 

Niklaus

Original poster
Member
Apr 18, 2014
37
jrSS said:
Yes you'll be able to drive. It'll just be bouncy as hell since your bumpstops will be riding on the frame.

Youll need to buy the upper insulators for the spring conversion because the bags "twist" in with nothing on top.

Your compressor will still try to kick on with you air bags out. Just remove fuse #1 in the fuse box under the hood. I left my air hoses and such...I didn't remove them.
Thanks for the info. I guess I will push my luck and see how long I can go with this thing til it breaks
 

jrSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
3,950
Converting from air ride to springs is probably the easiest diy mod ive done. Good luck.
 
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