- Jul 6, 2014
- 9,265
Hey guys. Been busy and thus haven't been around too much the last month or so. Got a lot going on. Anyway I have a question regarding the correct operation of the thermostat on our trucks as I for really know how out system is supposed to work. Here's the story:
Last week or two weeks ago I opened the hood on my truck to top off the washer fluid. I figured I'd let the truck warm up while I was doing that so I started it. Note it had sat in the driveway for a few days since it last ran. At any rate it ran for a minute or two and as I leaned over I felt that the upper radiator hose was warm. Not hot but warmer than air temp which was around 70. Then I felt the end cap and same thing it was warmish. Check the cluster and sure enough it's reading maybe 130. Now it wasn't that warm but warm. Long story short in the winter I experience long warm up times. Like if I were to let it idle in my driveway for 20 minutes it won't go over 170 warm but in the summer it behaves as normal albeit a little hot at times. (It'll jump to 235 and I do have a thermal clutch, at that point it is locked solid) I guess what I'm asking is if there is a bypass built into either the thermostat or water pump that allows for some coolant exchange when the thermostat is closed or am I dealing with a slightly stuck stat...
Based on more traditional cooling systems I've worked on I tend to believe it's a bad or junk stat.
Last week or two weeks ago I opened the hood on my truck to top off the washer fluid. I figured I'd let the truck warm up while I was doing that so I started it. Note it had sat in the driveway for a few days since it last ran. At any rate it ran for a minute or two and as I leaned over I felt that the upper radiator hose was warm. Not hot but warmer than air temp which was around 70. Then I felt the end cap and same thing it was warmish. Check the cluster and sure enough it's reading maybe 130. Now it wasn't that warm but warm. Long story short in the winter I experience long warm up times. Like if I were to let it idle in my driveway for 20 minutes it won't go over 170 warm but in the summer it behaves as normal albeit a little hot at times. (It'll jump to 235 and I do have a thermal clutch, at that point it is locked solid) I guess what I'm asking is if there is a bypass built into either the thermostat or water pump that allows for some coolant exchange when the thermostat is closed or am I dealing with a slightly stuck stat...
Based on more traditional cooling systems I've worked on I tend to believe it's a bad or junk stat.