Hey guys,
I'm new to ownership and new to the forum, but have already used the forum to exhaust my attempts to fix my issue and need some help to proceed.
Vehicle: 2008 Saab 97-x 4.2l Vortec. 190,000 miles.
History: Purchased the vehicle a few weeks ago for my girlfriend to drive after her Jeep killed its engine. Nicely maintained, recent full tuneup. Ran and drove great, with no unusual noises or malfunctions. I drove it for about a week, about 100 miles with no issue. Then, check engine light came on and it ran poorly and even died on me while driving a couple of times. Pulled the OBD code at is P0017 Crank/Cam Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B. Then, it started knocking. Not a "tick" but a true knock which sounds like it is coming from top-end near oil filler, and knock increases with rpm.
Attempted resolution:
1. Inspected all wiring and connectors to sensors, cleaned connections and grounds, installed new battery. All wiring looked very good, no corrosion or oil contamination. No change.
2. Replaced Cam Position Sensor (CamPS). No change.
3. Changed oil and replaced Variable Valve Timing Solenoid (VVT). No change. (Oil that I removed was actually very new from tuneup.)
4. Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor (CrankPS). No change.
5. Pulled off the serpentine belt and ran engine to confirm the knocking was not from an accessory. It wasn't. Knocking definitely seems to come from up top.
If I disconnect the battery or clear the code with my reader, once I start it and let it idle to temp, the code will come back after about ten minutes. I've not done any other "clearing" or "reset", because I'm not sure what may be needed.
So now I need your help for next steps to take.
1. Before I start pulling the valve cover off to look around, I'd like to test the electric signal at the plugs to each of the above-mentioned sensors and VVT. Can any of you tell me the readings I should get at each sensor plug while the car is running? I think on the CamPS and CrankPS there should be 12 volts at two of the wires, and the third wire sends the signal back to the ECU. But I don't know which wire is which to test.
2. The knocking sound is significant, and I'm wondering if it is the Cam reluctor/actuator. But I'm curious why that would just "suddenly" happen when the check engine light came on. Again, the vehicle ran great for a week.
Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated to keep this safely on the road.
A bit of background on myself. I've worked on my own cars and others for over 30 years. I have significant mechanical and electrical experience. I currently own and drive seven vehicles (not included this one) but the only GM product I currently have is a 1953 Chevy pickup.....the easiest car in the world to work on!
Thanks, Jason
I'm new to ownership and new to the forum, but have already used the forum to exhaust my attempts to fix my issue and need some help to proceed.
Vehicle: 2008 Saab 97-x 4.2l Vortec. 190,000 miles.
History: Purchased the vehicle a few weeks ago for my girlfriend to drive after her Jeep killed its engine. Nicely maintained, recent full tuneup. Ran and drove great, with no unusual noises or malfunctions. I drove it for about a week, about 100 miles with no issue. Then, check engine light came on and it ran poorly and even died on me while driving a couple of times. Pulled the OBD code at is P0017 Crank/Cam Position Correlation - Bank 1 Sensor B. Then, it started knocking. Not a "tick" but a true knock which sounds like it is coming from top-end near oil filler, and knock increases with rpm.
Attempted resolution:
1. Inspected all wiring and connectors to sensors, cleaned connections and grounds, installed new battery. All wiring looked very good, no corrosion or oil contamination. No change.
2. Replaced Cam Position Sensor (CamPS). No change.
3. Changed oil and replaced Variable Valve Timing Solenoid (VVT). No change. (Oil that I removed was actually very new from tuneup.)
4. Replaced Crankshaft Position Sensor (CrankPS). No change.
5. Pulled off the serpentine belt and ran engine to confirm the knocking was not from an accessory. It wasn't. Knocking definitely seems to come from up top.
If I disconnect the battery or clear the code with my reader, once I start it and let it idle to temp, the code will come back after about ten minutes. I've not done any other "clearing" or "reset", because I'm not sure what may be needed.
So now I need your help for next steps to take.
1. Before I start pulling the valve cover off to look around, I'd like to test the electric signal at the plugs to each of the above-mentioned sensors and VVT. Can any of you tell me the readings I should get at each sensor plug while the car is running? I think on the CamPS and CrankPS there should be 12 volts at two of the wires, and the third wire sends the signal back to the ECU. But I don't know which wire is which to test.
2. The knocking sound is significant, and I'm wondering if it is the Cam reluctor/actuator. But I'm curious why that would just "suddenly" happen when the check engine light came on. Again, the vehicle ran great for a week.
Any tips and advice would be greatly appreciated to keep this safely on the road.
A bit of background on myself. I've worked on my own cars and others for over 30 years. I have significant mechanical and electrical experience. I currently own and drive seven vehicles (not included this one) but the only GM product I currently have is a 1953 Chevy pickup.....the easiest car in the world to work on!
Thanks, Jason