P0014 and P1345... please look

[evoblazer]

Hi guys coming form the other forum.

So i threw a P0014 (pending) and P1345.

Changed crank sensor/cam sensor/CPAS - no luck still stalls out. even after a CASE relearn

It bascially will stall out on my at highway speeds and then coming to a dead or near stop.

Lately after a Seafoam and motor flush it turned the check engine light off... and the next day it came back on and is now stalling at almost any speed intermittently and fuel gauge after restart seems to go down then go back up.

I got a GM CPAS now (instead of the dorman POS) and am gonna check the gas pressure and lines too.

Stealership is always staying the timing chain but thats because they want the 14.5 hours in labour.

Anyone else have any insight?

 

[evoblazer]

changed cpas and cleared the code.
still hesitating a bit no stalling yet but some closes ones

but sitting in part and revving to 1500rpm there is some vibration..
not sure what it is.

 

[Mooseman]

I had a ton of problems with this. Changed CPAS twice (Dorman and GM), Crank and cam sensors (Standard brand), multiple CASE relearns and I can't get rid of the P1345 when the engine is cold. Once warmed up, no problem. I clear it and it stays away while the engine remains warm. Once cold and restarted, it comes back. Even suspected the oil, changed it, no joy. Starting to suspect that either the aftermarket sensors I installed are bad , the camshaft actuator is bad or the timing chain is loose or tensioner is dying. Unlike you, I don't get any driveability issues at all. Just the CEL that comes on and prevents cruise from working.

Did you clean your throttle body and disconnect the battery? Could be the cause of the stalling.

 

[evoblazer]

yup the TB was cleaned recently with the battery disconnected..

if it was timing chain i would suspect it would not run normal under city conditions

also i was entertaining the phazer to change but i want to figure out whats goin on first without ripping off the covers

 

[Mooseman]

And to do that, you need special chain holding tools to keep it from dropping into the front of the crankcase unless you want to take the whole front of the engine apart as well.

 

[evoblazer]

i am just going to tear it all apart.. no point till i see whats going on under the cover.

it finally threw a code now and is stalling again.

I hate these cars.. worst design ever. and this is coming from an automotive engineer.

 

[evoblazer]

so today as i was driving to costco... the light turned off and it drove fine.

then i decided to hit the highway to see if it was true and nope the light turned on again and it wants to stall again...

Fuel issue?

but why would a fuel issue pull a p1345 and p0014

 

[harmless]

P1345 - Chevrolet Camshaft To Crankshaft Position Correlation Fault.

P0014 - Chevrolet Camshaft Phasing System Malfunction.

Those codes seem related, but not related to a fuel issue. If it was fuel system related, the whole engine would be having an issue, no? (bad sparking, plugged filter, poor fuel flow,

Unless one of the cylinders is misfiring badly? (injector, plug, wiring?)

I'm not a good mechanic (still learning this stuff), so forgive me, I'm just tossing some ideas out there. Sometimes it helps to figure things out.

Spoiler

I'm actually suprised with all the mechanics we DO have on either site, this hasn't been acknowledged yet?

 

[Mooseman]

Sounds like your cam phaser is only partially working. Fine at lower speeds but goes wacky at other times. How was the old CPAS when you pulled it out? Was it gummed up? Was the screen ripped? Maybe the phaser got gummed up. Maybe an engine flush and oil change might help. I'm not talking Seafoam here but a real flush that will dilute the oil so much that it says to not drive it until you've changed the oil.

 

[evoblazer]

flush with what

 

[Mooseman]

Engine flush for the oil.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[djthumper]

How many miles do you have on this oil change? Is it synthetic oil or fossil? I had a similar problem in October and I had quite a few miles on my oil. I flushed the engine and replaced the oil and it had not come back. I had dug through a lot of stuff on the OS before I decided to try just the oil change. My truck only had 52k on it and was babied by the previous owner.

Just so that you know I had almost 15000 miles on the oil because I wanted to see if the change oil light was still active since my truck had been a rental. It turns out that it does not appear to be active. My oil got really dirty that last 3000 miles that I had put on it and I did not flush out the engine the first oil change after I purchased it.

 

[evoblazer]

well previous oil change was done at 5000km.

I have basically 200km on this oil change and is fossil.

what did you flush with? last time i flushed with seafoam

Should i try another change and do a diesel flush where you put a new filter on and dump 1 qrt of diesel in the crank case and flush it?

the other option is to go to a shop where they have a industrial blend but thats about 300 bucks~!

How many miles do you have on this oil change? Is it synthetic oil or fossil? I had a similar problem in October and I had quite a few miles on my oil. I flushed the engine and replaced the oil and it had not come back. I had dug through a lot of stuff on the OS before I decided to try just the oil change. My truck only had 52k on it and was babied by the previous owner.

Just so that you know I had almost 15000 miles on the oil because I wanted to see if the change oil light was still active since my truck had been a rental. It turns out that it does not appear to be active. My oil got really dirty that last 3000 miles that I had put on it and I did not flush out the engine the first oil change after I purchased it.

 

[djthumper]

well previous oil change was done at 5000km.

I have basically 200km on this oil change and is fossil.

what did you flush with? last time i flushed with seafoam

Should i try another change and do a diesel flush where you put a new filter on and dump 1 qrt of diesel in the crank case and flush it?

the other option is to go to a shop where they have a industrial blend but thats about 300 bucks~!

I just used a motor flush, basically a diesel flush, but didn't put a new filter on before it. If I remember correctly this is what I got http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AME4V4/?tag=gmtnation-20 because it is all they had at Autozone. It says to run it for about 5 minutes and I let it run for a good 15 minutes to make sure everything was warmed up.

Did you have the problem before the oil change as well? I would hate to say change the oil again if it wasn't an prob lem before the oil change unless things are really gummed up.

 

[evoblazer]

well i am the new owner of this... the previous owner never saw any issues.. but then again it was never highway driven ever...

when i test drove it there was no issues.

the previous owner is nice enough to pay for repairs..

last night the light went off but i am sure it will reappear.

i have aquired a drum of 5w30 so i will flush it 10 times.. and see what happens.

 

[Mooseman]

I hope you understand with "flush" is an actual chemical product added to the oil. Probably something from Gumout or the like. Somebody on the OS had recommended Gunk or Amsoil flush. Another old hot rodder trick is to replace one quart of oil with tranny fluid for a long term cleanup. The thinking there is that the high detergent content will clean it out. Maybe I will do that to mine too since I have a similar issue. Over time, it might clean it out.

 

[fishsticks]

I hope you understand with "flush" is an actual chemical product added to the oil. Probably something from Gumout or the like. Somebody on the OS had recommended Gunk or Amsoil flush. Another old hot rodder trick is to replace one quart of oil with tranny fluid for a long term cleanup. The thinking there is that the high detergent content will clean it out. Maybe I will do that to mine too since I have a similar issue. Over time, it might clean it out.

Given the amount of oil our crankcases hold, I would substitute 2 quarts of ATF instead of one.


When you used Seafoam, did you add it to the oil as instructed?

When adding Sea Foam® to dirty oil before an oil change, for best results use 1 ½ ounces per quart of oil at least 100 miles before oil is changed.

 

[djthumper]

I don't think changing the oil 10 times is going to clean the build-up that may be causing this problem. I do think a good flush with a motor flush that you can pick up at the local parts store should help it. As fishsticks already stated the seafoam is meant to be in for about 100 miles/ 160 KM.

 

[evoblazer]

i was going to flush it 10 times with diesel in teh crank case every time..

I don't think changing the oil 10 times is going to clean the build-up that may be causing this problem. I do think a good flush with a motor flush that you can pick up at the local parts store should help it. As fishsticks already stated the seafoam is meant to be in for about 100 miles/ 160 KM.

 

[Mooseman]

Just diesel or diesel with oil? Either way, I've never heard of this and I wouldn't recommend it (especially just diesel, would severely damage the engine). I don't think diesel has any detergent properties to clean anything out but I may be wrong.

 

[Mark20]

Diesel will act as a solvent and really clean things out. However it has very little lube properties. When I converted to synthetic I ran a bottle of Amsoil engine flush through with a new filter. What came out was very black. We'll see what the next change is like since I expect the synthetic to also do a lot of cleaning.

Sent from my Android using Tapatalk.

 

[djthumper]

i was going to flush it 10 times with diesel in teh crank case every time..

I would probably add 2 qts of diesel in with 5 qts of oil and let it run for about 20 minutes at operating temp. I probably would only do it once.

 

[Mooseman]

Ah, just learned something new! Will probably do this at next oil change and then run it with some ATF. It'll be cleaner inside than outside

 

[evoblazer]

so the light just turned it self off about 2 days now and no driving issues..
maybe the sludge came out from the phazer finally!

 

[Mooseman]

Could very well be. Please keep up posted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[djthumper]

Could very well be. Please keep up posted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[evoblazer]

so me and my big mouth/post.

came back last night with a stall... and the light came on again

gaarr!!! i cant win

going to flush it again on monday.

 

[evoblazer]

and shes off again.. dtc p0130

 

[djthumper]

and shes off again.. dtc p0130

check your front O2 sensor. How is it running?

 

[evoblazer]

well she was eating gas like a fat kid eats candy.

but that was with the light on.

i would expect that code as the exhaust gas is probably rich as hell when the light is on as the cam was probably runnign retard timing and making it smoggy as hell.

i cleared the code lets see what happesn.

 

[evoblazer]

no code back - stalling again.

did a flush 3 times in a row and still stalling... and now eating coolant and overheating..

best part cannot find the leak.. but i will eventually.

what else can cause the stalling???

 

[Mooseman]

If it's leaking coolant and there are no visible signs of leakage, it's possible that it may be leaking internally. I think there are test strips to check for exhaust in the coolant. While it's running, is there a smell of coolant from the exhaust? Another option would be to take it to a shop and have the cooling system pressure tested. Could also check all the plugs. If one or two look really clean, then that could be evidence of coolant getting into the cylinder. If it's ingesting coolant, that could explain the issues.

At the first oil change, did it have a milky look to it?

Getting back to the original problem and re-reading your posts, I think your cam phaser may be defective. To confirm it, you would need to take it to a dealer and use the Tech2 scan tool to work it manually and see how it reacts. A good tech that really knows how to use the Tech2 would be able to diagnose this properly. That's if there is no other internal damage causing a coolant leak.

That's the thing with these trucks. When they work fine, they're great but as soon as you have an issue, you need to be a university grad engineer with a bit of voodoo magic to figure them out

 

[evoblazer]

i went out i think i see some coolant from the water pump area...

i can smell dexcool from outside the car when you are in the front.

the oil is not milky at all and is not leaking internally.

i am a university grad in automotive engineering.... and let me tell you.. this is now how you are to design any cars.

i have worked on every car manufacturer and so far GM is by far the worst for design.

The EVAP system may also be an issue....

 

[Mooseman]

Yeah, the variable exhaust valve timing system is complicated and a PITA to diagnose and fix. I don't think the EVAP is related at all to this and isn't throwing a code related to it. I just learned to live with my P1345 since I don't have any driveability issues at all. I may tackle it again in the spring.

 

[evoblazer]

problem is currently there is no check engine light at all!!!!!

DTCs are made to diagnose problems but having no DTC to read is stupid.

 

[Ztryfe]

problem is currently there is no check engine light at all!!!!!

DTCs are made to diagnose problems but having no DTC to read is stupid.

Hi, just joined the site and went trough this thread... I fixed something similar by a simple oil change (with a flush) and brand new ACDelco spark plugs gapped at 0.50 (2002 LTZ).

I was afraid I had to do something like what you just did, but a simple spark plug change and ECU reset (is that how you call it on TB's?) did the trick.

Just throwing it in here, who knows