Newer engine in 02 chassis

wrecks2020

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2012
17
My '02 TB has a death rattle so I'm gonna replace it. My question is:
Can I use the newer 295 HP (06 to 09) version? I understand it has a MAF.
What is involved in the change-over? matching ECU perhaps?
thanks
 

limequat

Member
Dec 8, 2011
520
wrecks2020 said:
My '02 TB has a death rattle so I'm gonna replace it. My question is:
Can I use the newer 295 HP (06 to 09) version? I understand it has a MAF.
What is involved in the change-over? matching ECU perhaps?
thanks

Just get a 2006-2007 engine and swap over your harness and PCM. You'll also have to swap oil pans to retain your oil level sensor and the fuel rail.
 

DocBrown

Member
Dec 8, 2011
501
Death rattle? If its the sound I'm thinking of, every I6 I have stood next to sounds like they have a death rattle.
 

wrecks2020

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2012
17
limequat said:
Just get a 2006-2007 engine and swap over your harness and PCM. You'll also have to swap oil pans to retain your oil level sensor and the fuel rail.

How much of my harness? Everything on the engine? In engine compartment? Where is the PCM located?
thanks
 

wrecks2020

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2012
17
DocBrown said:
Death rattle? If its the sound I'm thinking of, every I6 I have stood next to sounds like they have a death rattle.
This one has a knock that sounds like a rod bearing when it starts cold. Maybe its a piston slap but they usually go away when hot. I can still hear this (although it's muted) when engine is hot.
 

wrecks2020

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2012
17
DocBrown said:
Death rattle? If its the sound I'm thinking of, every I6 I have stood next to sounds like they have a death rattle.
I had the I5 Canyon and it never sounded anything like this I6.
 

tblazerdude

Member
Dec 4, 2011
321
I'd drive it till a piston goes through the hood. Early engine replacement is always a bad idea.
 

limequat

Member
Dec 8, 2011
520
wrecks2020 said:
How much of my harness? Everything on the engine? In engine compartment? Where is the PCM located?
thanks

The PCM is bolted to the intake manifold. Leave the blue connector then follow the other two, disconnecting everything along the way: coils, cam sensor, cam actuator, etc, until they're free. It's not as big of a pain in the ass as it sounds.
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
tblazerdude said:
I'd drive it till a piston goes through the hood. Early engine replacement is always a bad idea.

If it is a bad bearing I'd rather replace than have it blow at an inopportune moment (merging on the highway for example) or cause collateral damage (i.e. the hood).
 

limequat

Member
Dec 8, 2011
520
Sparky said:
If it is a bad bearing I'd rather replace than have it blow at an inopportune moment (merging on the highway for example) or cause collateral damage (i.e. the hood).

Agreed. Plus if you pull it now, you might be able to get some of your cash back selling the old head.
 

wrecks2020

Original poster
Member
Jun 21, 2012
17
limequat said:
The PCM is bolted to the intake manifold. Leave the blue connector then follow the other two, disconnecting everything along the way: coils, cam sensor, cam actuator, etc, until they're free. It's not as big of a pain in the ass as it sounds.

Another question:
Can I pull the engine out by just unbolting the oil pan instead of removing half the front end first? I can't find mention of this procedure anywhere. Also, do I have to evacuate the AC or can I pull the compressor and hoses clear?
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,344
Ottawa, ON
I did an engine swap ('03 engine into an '02 TB) and I can say that you will have to have your A/C system emptied and disconnect your hoses since you have to remove that top line and the condenser. No way around it.

That is a very good question on the oil pan. I don't think you can because the flywheel might not let you pull the engine forward if the pan is still in the vehicle. And given that some of the tranny bellhousing bolts are on the oil pan will present another challenge as well as the oil pump pick-up that may get damaged during the removal or re-install. It's better to just bite the bullet and remove the front axles.

For the oil level sensor if you use a newer engine and PCM, it won't work anymore unless you hook up your own idiot light to it since no PCM from 03 and up will be able to use it. When I swapped mine, I kept the '02 oil pan and PCM so I was able to keep it functional.

Here are some tips: drop the engine as low as it will go by removing the motor and tranny mounts to be able get at the top bellhousing bolts. Pull the engine with the differential, alternator, A/C compressor attached and swap them to the other engine while it's out. Change all the differential seals too (they're a bitch to pull out). Remove the throttle body to avoid damaging it (good thing I had a spare :redface:). I would even recommend removing the intake manifold to give you even more maneuvering room. Check your exhaust manifold for cracks (both of mine were cracked :mad:). Install a new water pump, thermostat and water temp sensor. Clean the CPAS or replace it if you see oil in the connector plug. Be patient. It's not a '70's car. It has a LOT of wiring, hoses and connections so keep track of things.

Good luck.
 

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