Newbie! 2004 TB LS 4x4 I6

bmcutright

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2014
187
Hello everyone, new guy posting here. Just bought a 2004 TB, very basic model except with 4x4. :wootwoot: 163k miles, dealer did oil change prior to me looking at the vehicle. I have no maintenance records.

I would like recommendations on changing the fluids. I would like to do a transmission flush, and change the fluids in transfer case and axles. Since I have no idea if this was done at all previously, would this be good preventive maintenance? 4x4 seems to work fine, no service lights and I have noticed "crow-hopping" when in 4HI and turning tightly. However, when I switch to 4LO and start to accelerate from stopped, there is a lurch from the vehicle (I think from 1st to 2nd gear). First time owning a 4WD, is this normal?

Began having problems when coasting/idle speeds starting yesterday (after driving about 1500 miles), RPM varying from 200-1200, eventually died just as I was pulling into a parking space. :eek: I have looked at other threads and plan to clean the throttle body when the weather here clears up. Any other suggestions?

Thanks! BC
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
bmcutright said:
...would this be good preventive maintenance? ...
It is absolutely REQUIRED maintenance whenever you buy a vehicle with an unknown pedigree. Every single fluid in every functional part of the truck, including flushing the brake lines and reservoir, and power steering pump and rack. Except the AC refrigerant and the washer reservoir. :yes:

Also everything that should have been done at 100K and probably wasn't - like the plugs and the upstream O2 sensor.

You've been reading just the right stuff if you know about the throttle body. :thumbsup:
 

bmcutright

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2014
187
Unfortunately, I live in an apartment complex without a garage. I am fully capable of changing the oil myself, but have never done anything more extensive than that. How challenging would changing all those fluids be? Considering turning it into an Article Submission if I'm able to do everything myself in my driveway.
 

signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
make sure you get the delco iridium spark plugs. I think the number is 41-103. don't use any other plug

the throttle body will need to be cleaned at least once a year, if not twice. make sure you do a "relearn" after you clean the throttle body.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Depends entirely on the rules of your apartment complex and your stock of tools and other experience, and willingness to watch a lot of Youtube videos. You have my sympathies.

Can't you find ONE co-worker or buddy with a garage? :frown:
 

signalnc

Member
Dec 28, 2012
249
I agree with what Roadie said. you may also want to get a quote from a shop to see how much it will cost you to have it done, then price fluids,tools and supplies and make a decision.
 

cstern71

Member
Feb 16, 2014
57
I priced some of this out recently as I am working on getting all my new owner maintenance done.

I figured about 18 quarts of fluid for oil, transmission, transfer case, and 2 differentials. I figured an average of $9 a quart (so $162), depending on what you buy.

Plus you would need coolant, power steering fluid, brake fluid, air filter, transmission filter, fuel filter, oil filter, upstream O2, sparkplugs, am I forgetting anything?

This could be around $400 for everything, ballpark estimate. Obviously a shop will be higher.
 

smt 59

Member
As you are a novice you should have this all done at a shop as you will require a transmission filter change, you should be looking at rad hoses and serpentine belt etc. Good luck.
 

Robbabob

Member
Dec 10, 2012
1,096
:hijack:

The_Roadie said:
Every single fluid in every functional part of the truck, including flushing the brake lines and reservoir, and power steering pump and rack.

the upstream O2 sensor.

You've been reading just the right stuff if you know about the throttle body. :thumbsup:

Never thought of brake and PS fluids :undecided: :eek: makes sense...
~off to find May's vids on these items~

The O2 sensor just because or check out the readings first?


In case you haven't found it yet, there are a lot of great videos and instructions right here, without having to search the Interweb. That way you can figure out if you have the tools and which supplies you'll need.

Something that can't be stressed enough, for the differentials and transfer case, ALWAYS REMOVE THE FILL PLUG FIRST. If the drain comes off and the fill plug doesn't, you'll be quite pissed at yourself.

Good luck and enjoy!
 

Trios

Member
Mar 27, 2014
237
Robbabob said:
The O2 sensor just because or check out the readings first?

The O2 sensor because they aren't horrifically expensive ($50-60), they do go out, and they aren't always obvious when they do go out. It may just make your truck run rich and waste fuel without throwing any codes or showing any signs except poor fuel economy. At the mileage the OP is at, it's cheap insurance to keep the truck running well.
 

bmcutright

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2014
187
Upstream O2 sensor will do, downstream sensor too? New oil and air filters at purchase. Planning on a professional transmission flush (for all 11 qts instead of the 5 I can get to) if the place I got a quote from uses Dexron VI. Bought transfer case fluid from Summit, will change that and differentials when the truck is lifted to change the upper/lower ball joints, bushings and front brake pads while we have the wheels off. Contemplating the radiator flush detailed in the Haynes manual, I just don't know what to do with all the used fluids. Power steering and brakes I'll leave to the professionals. Should I do the rear brake pads with the front?

Did the throttle body, is the burn pattern normal?:
 

bmcutright

Original poster
Member
Apr 15, 2014
187
Is there a mod website that would show me what my truck would look like with different add-ons? Brush guard, etc
 

Mounce

Member
Mar 29, 2014
13,667
Tuscaloosa, AL
bmcutright said:
Is there a mod website that would show me what my truck would look like with different add-ons? Brush guard, etc
Try searching on google for things like that. I think there'd be a few pictures there. Or just watch posts around here, I see many trailvoys all fixed up like that in people's avatar.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Downstream O2 sensors almost never go bad because they don't get as coated by the exhaust stream contaminants because the cat cleans them out.

The issue with the throttle body isn't the disk. It's on the SHARP edges of the disk and the throat that it closes off. You have to look at the throat with the disk open. Cleaning the flat part of the disk away from the edges is wasted effort and I never do it. I don't want the next owner of the Roadiemobile (which will probably be nobody) to think I'd pampered it too much.
 

Hypnotoad

Member
Dec 5, 2011
1,584
bmcutright said:
Upstream O2 sensor will do, downstream sensor too? New oil and air filters at purchase. Planning on a professional transmission flush (for all 11 qts instead of the 5 I can get to) if the place I got a quote from uses Dexron VI. Bought transfer case fluid from Summit, will change that and differentials when the truck is lifted to change the upper/lower ball joints, bushings and front brake pads while we have the wheels off. Contemplating the radiator flush detailed in the Haynes manual, I just don't know what to do with all the used fluids. Power steering and brakes I'll leave to the professionals. Should I do the rear brake pads with the front?

Did the throttle body, is the burn pattern normal?:
An easy way to do the power steering is to use a turkey baster with a length of vinyl hose on it and suck out the old fluid. Refill with new fluid. Then, turn the wheel lock to lock several times. Keep repeating the process until the fluid comes out looking clean.

Here in Minnesota, any repair shop or autoparts store has to take your old oil if you bring it to them. Don't know if this applies outside of Minnesota or not.
 

Mark20

Member
Dec 6, 2011
1,630
Welcome to the Nation!
 

kkeo211

Member
Apr 14, 2014
87
bmcutright said:
Hello everyone, new guy posting here. Just bought a 2004 TB, very basic model except with 4x4. :wootwoot: 163k miles, dealer did oil change prior to me looking at the vehicle. I have no maintenance records.

I would like recommendations on changing the fluids. I would like to do a transmission flush, and change the fluids in transfer case and axles. Since I have no idea if this was done at all previously, would this be good preventive maintenance? 4x4 seems to work fine, no service lights and I have noticed "crow-hopping" when in 4HI and turning tightly. However, when I switch to 4LO and start to accelerate from stopped, there is a lurch from the vehicle (I think from 1st to 2nd gear). First time owning a 4WD, is this normal?

Began having problems when coasting/idle speeds starting yesterday (after driving about 1500 miles), RPM varying from 200-1200, eventually died just as I was pulling into a parking space. :eek: I have looked at other threads and plan to clean the throttle body when the weather here clears up. Any other suggestions?

Thanks! BC
My Envoy had about the same miles as you had when I started having strange issues with the transmission. While going about 55, the tranny seamed like it was hunting for a gear. This happened twice and the issue turned out to be low transmission fluid and a lot of neglect on my part (I never serviced the fluids). It also turned out that I had a bad seal on the driver side front differential that was causing a leak. I found this site and from all of the great post and information I gathered, I decided to change all of the fluids and replace the front diff seal myself (I still have to do the power steering).

It cost me about $230 for fluids and parts (2 fluid pumps, one for the TC fluid and one for diff fluid, AC Delco transmission filter and pan gasket, some small tools). I also purchased extra fluid just in case I needed it. I called around to see how much it would have cost me to have all this done at a shop and it was over $1000. The other added benefit is that I learned a bunch and if anything comes up I can diagnose it myself. I hope to contribute back to this community for all the help I got just by reading first then asking questions later.

Most of the work was not hard and required basic tools. The only thing that required special tools (to make the job easier) was the front differential seal replacement(seal puller and install kit).

The only thing I did different from you is that instead of flushing all the transmission fluid at once, I just dropped the pan, changed the filter/gasket and added the 5 qt. My plan is to drop the pan again in another 1000 miles or so and replace another 5 qt.

I've just found this site a few months ago but have learned a lot in a short amount of time.
 

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