New tires and alignment, opinions?

[Instrumental]

Just got a new set of Continental Crosscontact LX20 on my ride. (Got an employee price from a friend who's an exec in the automotive business, sweet deal)

Also had an alignment done, and here's the pre-post sheet. They said they can't adjust the caster,and I neglected to ask about the rear. Any thoughts from the well informed crowd out there?

 

[djthumper]

You are stock and they cannot adjust the caster? There is no rear alignment. I would take it someplace that knows what they are doing. Even lifted my shop could align mine.

 

[Instrumental]

My mistake, I think he said no camber, I looked at the sheet and mistyped.

 

[djthumper]

Did he tell you why he couldn't do camber? A lot of us off roaders get our stuff done fairly close. Normally if you are stock they will tell you why. If they can't tell you why I would take it for a second opinion.

 

[seanpooh]

That print out looks like the BelleTire printout, the same people who only adjust the toe which is what they did to yours. And they tell everyone that's all they can adjust.

If you go to the dealership who actually adjust all the settings, get the print out and show the lazy first shop and demand a refund.

I did that and the counter guys never looked me in the eye when they had to open the cash register.

Also, since you're stock just as me; if the dealership tells you they can't get it within specs, tell them to remove your sway bar links or remove them yourself before the alignment.

 

[Instrumental]

You got it, Belle Tire. What is the advantage or disadvantage to camber adjustment?

 

[tbyoda]

You got it, Belle Tire. What is the advantage or disadvantage to camber adjustment?

A little google and found this on offroadtb.com thanks to Roadie

http://forums.offroadtb.com/viewtopic.php?f=15&t=1741

"You (or the shop) needs to loosen three bolts that hold the LCA bracket to the vehicle. Then you can pry the rear edge of the bracket outwards (the bolts are in slightly slotted holes in the LCA bracket) and that moves the lower ball joint forward in the vehicle. Camber adjustment uses the same tactic, but the entire bracket moves in and out to move the lower ball joint in and out in the vehicle. If you run out of adjustment, you can remove the bracket and LCA from the vehicle and get the slots milled out a bit. If you have a milling machine available, that's easier than if you have to pay a machine shop.

Alignment shops who claim trailvoys have no camber and caster adjustment are incompetent goofs with a bad data base of where the adjustments are.

The LCA mounting bolts have a HUGE torque requirement of 177 ft-lbs for the two in the rear, and 195 for the single front bolt. I'm moving mine all the time after nasty rock trail runs."

 

[gmcman]

Could have a worn ball joint, upper or lower on the right side.

I have the LX-20's as well, not sure how the wheels are on the Saab, but mine threw the wheel weights too many times to count. Ended up going with the adhesive weights. Just the way the rim saver interacts with the weights on these tires.....other than that I love them. Keep in mind these tires are somewhat stiff and I have found that 32-34 PSI is just right when not towing.

 

[seanpooh]

You got it, Belle Tire. What is the advantage or disadvantage to camber adjustment?

I really dislike those Belle Tire guys... I cannot remember the difference between the caster and camber but one is for the steering wheel to turn back to center without much assistance after a turn. The other is the adjustment so the corner of the tire doesn't get eaten away and something with the rear tires dog trailing with the front tires.

Those might not be the exact definitions but those are somethings I remember without googling the terms. Also all the balljoints and tie rods also play roles in having perfect steering and reduce tire wear.

Also do take along the service manual torque spec sheet and hand it to the service guys and insist the mechanic follows it.

One time (at band camp ) the dealership did my alignment. Later on... I had to brake hard to save a turkey's life on the road. I ended up with cocked wheels. That was due to the lack of torque on my LCA bolts. Torquing them is very important. I always have a copy with me when getting an alignment now.

 

[seanpooh]

Ended up going with the adhesive weights. Just the way the rim saver interacts with the weights on these tires.....other than that I love them. Keep in mind these tires are somewhat stiff and I have found that 32-34 PSI is just right when not towing.

I never had adhesive wheel weights... any benefits? They also probably don't ruin the appearance of the rim when they take them off to balance again.

A tire man told me if I wasn't towing to put 30psi in the rear for the winter, more traction in the snow. That's what I'm doing right now and no issues.

 

[dmanns67]

I never had adhesive wheel weights... any benefits?

Some wheels are designed differently so standard weights cannot be used. My old Honda had Enkei wheels and adhesive weights were my only option.

The only benefit I seen was it gives the wheels a cleaner look. On the downside, after a year I did notice that the adhesive wore out and a couple weights came off at some point while driving. I had free lifetime balancing so it was no big deal to take them back to get balanced again.

I usually go 30 psi in the winter. If I go any lower my low air pressure warning light comes on.