New Engine 60k ago using oil now

[Denali n DOO]

So I had the oil changed at 5000km (61% on DIC), level was at the bottom of the crosshatched area. The engine is still under warranty so I took it to the dealer for the oil change and questioned the low oil level and the presence of black soot on the tail pipe. I was told the bottom of the crosshatch is only down 3/4 of a litre. Is that right or would it be more than 3/4 to raise the level to the top of the crosshatched area. They told me it is normal for it to use that much oil in 5000km and everything is fine. No oil burning when engine was new its slowly starting. My friend was driving behind me and said when I stepped on it he could smell burning oil, hence the soot on the tailpipe. When I was having this oil usage issue in my original motor it was also smoking out the tailpipe. They changed the valve covers on the original motor but that didn't help and eventually the motor failed. They GUESS the new motor would have the updated valve covers but aren't certain. Is there something more that they should be doing to find the issue? Maybe a emmission test would show it? Or is there some kind of consumption test that can be done? I think they are just ignoring that there is a real issue going on. I've read that the rings in the non firing cylinders sludge up and allow oil to get past into the combustion chamber, any truth to that? Suggestions???

 

[BRomanJr]

So I had the oil changed at 5000km (61% on DIC), level was at the bottom of the crosshatched area. The engine is still under warranty so I took it to the dealer for the oil change and questioned the low oil level and the presence of black soot on the tail pipe. I was told the bottom of the crosshatch is only down 3/4 of a litre. Is that right or would it be more than 3/4 to raise the level to the top of the crosshatched area. They told me it is normal for it to use that much oil in 5000km and everything is fine. No oil burning when engine was new its slowly starting. My friend was driving behind me and said when I stepped on it he could smell burning oil, hence the soot on the tailpipe. When I was having this oil usage issue in my original motor it was also smoking out the tailpipe. They changed the valve covers on the original motor but that didn't help and eventually the motor failed. They GUESS the new motor would have the updated valve covers but aren't certain. Is there something more that they should be doing to find the issue? Maybe a emmission test would show it? Or is there some kind of consumption test that can be done? I think they are just ignoring that there is a real issue going on. I've read that the rings in the non firing cylinders sludge up and allow oil to get past into the combustion chamber, any truth to that? Suggestions???

Sorry to hear about your returning issue.
The Drivers Side valve cover is the only one that sucks oil when defective, I would change that first. (a motor in a crate probably had the older, problem valve cover)
The motor can not "FAIL" because of a bad cover, but too low on oil will do it.

IMHO, Sedentary driving can allow the rings to gum up and stick, usually a spirited run once a week will keep it clear. Use a Top Tier Regular Fuel, Don't use Premium.

Or, The use of a Top Engine Cleaner is very common at GM Dealers when this problem is presented, I would inquire about this since you are under warranty.

There certainly are other possible issues that can cause your problem, and for certain there are other solutions.

The usual Oil Consumption Test involves the owner documenting mileage and oil level daily for a period of time. Then the Dealer will decide what to do or present to GM for a determination.

 

[Denali n DOO]

Sorry to hear about your returning issue.
The Drivers Side valve cover is the only one that sucks oil when defective, I would change that first. (a motor in a crate probably had the older, problem valve cover)
The motor can not "FAIL" because of a bad cover, but too low on oil will do it.

IMHO, Sedentary driving can allow the rings to gum up and stick, usually a spirited run once a week will keep it clear. Use a Top Tier Regular Fuel, Don't use Premium.

Or, The use of a Top Engine Cleaner is very common at GM Dealers when this problem is presented, I would inquire about this since you are under warranty.

There certainly are other possible issues that can cause your problem, and for certain there are other solutions.

The usual Oil Consumption Test involves the owner documenting mileage and oil level daily for a period of time. Then the Dealer will decide what to do or present to GM for a determination.

Thanks for your input. I think I'll go sit with the service manager and offer to do a daily mileage log and oil level check. With that documentation he should be able to get me some warranty from GM and do the top engine cleaning and inspect the valve cover to determine if its the old style or the new style. Have you heard of some kind of deflector shield in the oil pan to be a remedy?

Maybe after the warranty is out and I get the PCM tune I'll turn the DOD off.

 

[BRomanJr]

Thanks for your input. I think I'll go sit with the service manager and offer to do a daily mileage log and oil level check. With that documentation he should be able to get me some warranty from GM and do the top engine cleaning and inspect the valve cover to determine if its the old style or the new style. Have you heard of some kind of deflector shield in the oil pan to be a remedy?

Maybe after the warranty is out and I get the PCM tune I'll turn the DOD off.

Have heard of a "Windage Tray" usually installed on high RPM Performance motors to help keep the oil down in the pan.
I don't think that is the issue, A temporary "Catch Can" in the PCV Hose may reveal how much oil is getting past the Valve Cover baffle.

 

[OMGTruk]

Have heard of a "Windage Tray" usually installed on high RPM Performance motors to help keep the oil down in the pan.
I don't think that is the issue, A temporary "Catch Can" in the PCV Hose may reveal how much oil is getting past the Valve Cover baffle.

motor already has a windage tray. its not going to make any different in oil consumption.

the catch can will tell you what's getting by the valve cover orifice(PCV valve) but the true test is to make sure you have it perfectly filled to a line on the dip stick on level ground. check the level cold. then check it again under the same conditions after xxx miles or milimeters or what ever it is you use up there.

GM will probably tell you that if its less than 1 quart ever 1k miles its normal. they probably wont do anything at 1.5 quarts per 1k. you'll have to go through the dance of putting the valve cover on it and then waiting some more while the warranty counts down to being over.
option 2 is go strictly by the indicator and by the time it says 0% change oil it will have a rod knock and they'll have to swap it.

 

[Wooluf1952]

motor already has a windage tray. its not going to make any different in oil consumption.

the catch can will tell you what's getting by the valve cover orifice(PCV valve) but the true test is to make sure you have it perfectly filled to a line on the dip stick on level ground. check the level cold. then check it again under the same conditions after xxx miles or milimeters or what ever it is you use up there.

GM will probably tell you that if its less than 1 quart ever 1k miles its normal. they probably wont do anything at 1.5 quarts per 1k.
More than 1 qt. in 1k miles would be excessive and covered under warranty.

you'll have to go through the dance of putting the valve cover on it and then waiting some more while the warranty counts down to being over.
As long as the problem has been reported but not fixed during the warranty period it should still be covered under warranty.

option 2 is go strictly by the indicator and by the time it says 0% change oil it will have a rod knock and they'll have to swap it.
I don't think it works that way. You are still expected to check the oil level.