Need some Advice new Timkin Wheel hubs on there way

[v7guy]

Hey a#@hole if u read. I was asking how to check ball joints etc. Your useless comment means nothing nor does it help...I'm sure there are guys can do it in half hour. I've never done it before so do me a favor and take our useless posts elsewhere thankd

you check if they have some slop, it's generally pretty obvious. If you can use a prybar on the joint and see deflection in the joint it's no good. I like to check it when it's apart (the spindle off). If the balljoint flops around with no effort it's garbage, if there is a bit of resistance it's still good. Pretty simple.

just pop the spindle loose and feel the ball joint. The top is a 15mm pinch bolt. I believe the bottom is an 18mm nut that goes through the spindle ( I could be misremembering though). If you have everything apart for the hub it's just two more bolts. Obviously the replacement of the upper ball joint is a smidge more involved but that's covered elsewhere on this forum and involves a balljoint press commonly for rent in most autoparts stores. For the lower balljoint most people replace the whole lower arm with one made by Mevotech. It's a lot easier and just slightly more expensive than replacing the bushings and ball joints, if you're replaceing the balljoint you should probably go ahead and replace the bushings, no harm no foul.
MEVOTECH CONTROL ARM Control Arm & Ball Joint Asm MS50154 | DiscountAutoParts.com

From a guy who went the cheap and hard route, don't buy the bushings and ball joints, just replace the arms, you'll be a better, happier person because of it.


I hope this useless comment from an asshole does nothing to help grow some thicker skin mofo let us know how it goes!


PS go get an alignment so you don't wreck your tires and more parts. It'll save you a ton of time and money in the future.

 

[jeffro312]

you check if they have some slop, it's generally pretty obvious. If you can use a prybar on the joint and see deflection in the joint it's no good. I like to check it when it's apart (the spindle off). If the balljoint flops around with no effort it's garbage, if there is a bit of resistance it's still good. Pretty simple.

just pop the spindle loose and feel the ball joint. The top is a 15mm pinch bolt. I believe the bottom is an 18mm nut that goes through the spindle ( I could be misremembering though). If you have everything apart for the hub it's just two more bolts. Obviously the replacement of the upper ball joint is a smidge more involved but that's covered elsewhere on this forum and involves a balljoint press commonly for rent in most autoparts stores. For the lower balljoint most people replace the whole lower arm with one made by Mevotech. It's a lot easier and just slightly more expensive than replacing the bushings and ball joints, if you're replaceing the balljoint you should probably go ahead and replace the bushings, no harm no foul.
MEVOTECH CONTROL ARM Control Arm & Ball Joint Asm MS50154 | DiscountAutoParts.com

From a guy who went the cheap and hard route, don't buy the bushings and ball joints, just replace the arms, you'll be a better, happier person because of it.


I hope this useless comment from an asshole does nothing to help grow some thicker skin mofo let us know how it goes!


PS go get an alignment so you don't wreck your tires and more parts. It'll save you a ton of time and money in the future.

See that's better u redeemed your self

No play in anything thanks just finished

U just happened to comment right after I busted my hand on this stupid abs wire

The whole job is simple easy and then here I am 20 minutes wrestling a fn abs wire haha go figure.

Now for a test drive to see if she stops hum in.

 

[v7guy]

I just try to call it like it is man. Even re-reading the thread after your comment I only had a vague idea you wanted balljoint advice.
Glad you got her all taken care of. Like I mentioned before, if you've gotten far enough to replace hubs you're more than capable to do most of the bigger jobs. Do a lil reading, ask a few questions and get after it! Did I mention grow some thicker skin? You'll meet assholes a lot worse than me in life!

Let us know if you have any more trouble, we'll get you squared away.

 

[Voymom]

I just try to call it like it is man. Even re-reading the thread after your comment I only had a vague idea you wanted balljoint advice.
Glad you got her all taken care of. Like I mentioned before, if you've gotten far enough to replace hubs you're more than capable to do most of the bigger jobs. Do a lil reading, ask a few questions and get after it! Did I mention grow some thicker skin? You'll meet assholes a lot worse than me in life!

Let us know if you have any more trouble, we'll get you squared away.

Yes, thicker skin is a MUST lol....trust me, I have been in your shoes

To keep on topic,

I'm glad it wasn't a very difficult job, my husband is looking at switching the hubs in his TB this spring and it's something we haven't done before. I'm sure my husband isn't as nervous as I am about it, but after the difficulties I have had with the Envoy when doing repairs, I'm really not looking forward to it lol.

I just wanted to say way to go at biting the bullet and taking on the job. It may not be hard for the more seasoned DIY'ers on the forum, but from the sounds of it, it doesn't seem too difficult for the less experienced either.

 

[jeffro312]

I just try to call it like it is man. Even re-reading the thread after your comment I only had a vague idea you wanted balljoint advice.
Glad you got her all taken care of. Like I mentioned before, if you've gotten far enough to replace hubs you're more than capable to do most of the bigger jobs. Do a lil reading, ask a few questions and get after it! Did I mention grow some thicker skin? You'll meet assholes a lot worse than me in life!

Let us know if you have any more trouble, we'll get you squared away.

Thanks man the thicker skin thing is def something I need to work on and my short temper haha

Yea I just get nervous to do a job that I've never done so in get all worked up like for these hubs I looks back and say wow why was I so scared. Same when I did my front struts just intimidated that's all

Thanks everyone
Now time to chill go race my rc truck revo 3.3 around. At least if that brakes a lot easier to fix haha

 

[CaptainXL]

AFAIK camber can be affected if there is slop in the hubs and an alignment was done previously to over-correct for it. Thus if a new hub is put on the camber will be incorrect. There have been numerous reports of people putting new hubs on and all of a sudden the truck pulls. It's best to just get it checked after all suspension or hub work is done.

Hey captain can u possibly steer me in right direction how to check those items

Really no need. There are tons of articles on here and other sites.

 

[jeffro312]

So now upon a left turn I hear scraping

Sounds like the stupid dust/rock guard scraping on something. Damn

 

[CaptainXL]

Installed correctly? Are you pinching the ABS wire in the dust shield?

 

[jeffro312]

Installed correctly? Are you pinching the ABS wire in the dust shield?

Hmm I'll go check

 

[jeffro312]

Nope abs not pinched. I'll have to look into it more tonight work in right now should b ok

 

[CaptainXL]

Nope abs not pinched. I'll have to look into it more tonight work in right now should b ok

And you took a wire brush to everything? All that old rust on any mating surface needs to be removed. Similar to removing the rust and scale on a hub prior to installing a new rotor. I use a Craftsman wire wheel that you attach to a drill.

 

[jeffro312]

Yea guess I skipped that step. Noise is loudest while braking

 

[jeffro312]

And you took a wire brush to everything? All that old rust on any mating surface needs to be removed. Similar to removing the rust and scale on a hub prior to installing a new rotor. I use a Craftsman wire wheel that you attach to a drill.

So right after your post about rust. I did a brake check ass behind me and the noise stopped

Gunna assume price of rust was noise culprit

Edit I lied still there wtf. Went away I reversed and now sounds there no matter what in doin

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

AFAIK camber can be affected if there is slop in the hubs and an alignment was done previously to over-correct for it.

Any decent alignment shop would never do that. If something is bad, they do not complete the alignment until you repair it or you pay them to.

Really you cannot "overcorrect" and get the alignment to come out. I literally picked my car up 30 minutes ago from getting aligned and asked several questions w this thread in mind. They told me replacing my hubs had no bearing on the alignment, since I only did one side so far. Worn tires don't matter either as I had belts showing on one and a couple over half tread. Also they said if joints or tie rods had play they would have stopped right there until fixed.

 

[CaptainXL]

Any decent alignment shop would never do that.

So you are saying that when I go to get an alignment that they automatically check for worn hubs and other suspension parts? Is that a guarantee?

I think it's best to just have it done. Most people out there are not going to ask the mechanic to make sure and check for other worn parts.

 

[HARDTRAILZ]

So you are saying that when I go to get an alignment that they automatically check for worn hubs and other suspension parts? Is that a guarantee?

I think it's best to just have it done. Most people out there are not going to ask the mechanic to make sure and check for other worn parts.

Both Firestone and my local place check. You CANNOT do a legit alignment with loose parts!

 

[jeffro312]

Just a FYI again. My alignment needs are not hub related... I messed with lower control arm and other front end stuff never got it aligned so only hub involvement is me not getting an alignment ruined hubs so getting alignment now to save new hubs. Get it???

 

[CaptainXL]

You CANNOT do a legit alignment with loose parts!

I agree. What I am saying is that he should get it checked regardless because you don't know what type of work was done previously.

Just a FYI again. My alignment needs are not hub related... I messed with lower control arm and other front end stuff never got it aligned so only hub involvement is me not getting an alignment ruined hubs so getting alignment now to save new hubs. Get it???

If you messed with anything then Yes. Improper alignment can cause hubs to fail prematurely.

 

[jeffro312]

Is this shield the only thing make this scraping noise.

Noise is kinda now and not a constant scrape like its on spot during the revolution of tire it scrapes get what I'm saying and braking makes it worse

 

[jrSS]

Is this shield the only thing make this scraping noise.

Noise is kinda now and not a constant scrape like its on spot during the revolution of tire it scrapes get what I'm saying and braking makes it worse

Just took off a a shield on drivers side. Was squeeling when turning. I KNOW what a bad bearing sounds like. After taking it off no more squeel. Its easy as shit. But u do hafta take the wheel bearing off anyway. So u might as well have a bearing handy just in case.

 

[jeffro312]

Just took off a a shield on drivers side. Was squeeling when turning. I KNOW what a bad bearing sounds like. After taking it off no more squeel. Its easy as shit. But u do hafta take the wheel bearing off anyway. So u might as well have a bearing handy just in case.

I've already done the hubs
When I reinstalled everything is when I had this scraping problem

 

[jrSS]

I've already done the hubs
When I reinstalled everything is when I had this scraping problem

Yup...99.9% sure its that stupid shield.

 

[jeffro312]

Yup...99.9% sure its that stupid shield.

So you saying incan remove this shield and have no issues??

 

[jrSS]

Yup...did it on the envoy and my ss. I know a bunch of members who have done this as well with no issues.

 

[jeffro312]

Yup...did it on the envoy and my ss.

Thank jr

 

[CaptainXL]

Yup...did it on the envoy and my ss. I know a bunch of members who have done this as well with no issues.

That's not fair to say now is it? Its on there for a reason. I suggest we explain the reason before misleading any newbies. They should be given both sides of the story to make the decision themselves.

 

[jrSS]

This has been covered b4. Why it's it that every time I say something someone's gotta bust my balls??

Im not a freaking engineer....I dunno why gm stuck that rusty piece of shit on there. I imagine to keep shit off the rotor like contaminates and such. And to keep brake dust off components. TAKE THEM OFF AT YOUR OWN RISK. (but afterwards have no squeeling)

 

[meerschm]

fair enough to state many folks have taken off the shield. however, it was put there for a reason. you do have rubber brake hoses and wires which do best if you keep something between hot disks and them. (of course if you baby the brakes, you might be fine) I like the "return to print" theory of maintenance.

I would make sure it is the shield. could be something in the brakes, since they were off too. or perhaps something as simple as the wire you used to hang the caliper still hanging there some place. (ask me how I know about that)

just check, and try to replicate exactly what is going on. no sense tearing it all apart if you do not have to.

let us know what you find.

 

[jrSS]

no sense tearing it all apart if you do not have to.

It only takes 45 min or so....tearing things apart is how you learn. And a forum is a place to ask questions if you get stuck when tearing things apart. I wouldnt steer any one in the wrong direction.

 

[meerschm]

No disrespect intended, just sharing the idea that a careful inspection and some wheel back and forth might identify exactly what is causing the noise.

I have in the past convinced myself of something, and after jumping into a convoluted task, found the real problem.

I do admit that all that wrench turning can be fun.

 

[jrSS]

None taken...just trying to explain myself.

 

[jeffro312]

Well I took a look wheels still on didn't notice anything out.of ordinary

Noise is really only heard while slow and braking or turning left

Too tired to go tear it all apart again

Maybe in the am

Did both side identicle only thing different is the noisy side when I took break hardware off I did it all as one unit like took 2 caliper bolts off and everything came as one drivers side I disassembled it separately



Think my one of rotors are warped as when I brake feels like braking with a warped rotor whole truck kinda jerks to a stop. Not abs jerking. Like riding a by cycle with a bent tire feeling

 

[Sparky]

Check the spring clips the pads sit in. I've had those either slightly dislodge or get rust/dirt built up behind them and start scraping on the rotor.

 

[jrSS]

Check the spring clips the pads sit in. I've had those either slightly dislodge or get rust/dirt built up behind them and start scraping on the rotor.

What's the name of this part. I need new ones.

 

[meerschm]

you can get a disk brake hardware kit. $10 or so

 

[jrSS]

you can get a disk brake hardware kit. $10 or so

Thanks

 

[CaptainXL]

Im not a freaking engineer....I dunno why gm stuck that rusty piece of shit on there.

You get enough of these encounters and it will make you want to become an engineer so you can replace the design some other glue sniffing engineer made.