Need Help with 2006 Trailblazer!!!

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
Someone please help me figure out what is wrong with my vehicle!! First it started putting itself into 4x4 while driving it. That wasn't too much of a problem cause I could turn the switch and turn it back and it came out just fine. Then it started quitting on my after I'd start it and before I could put it in gear. Check engine light codes said Gross Leak Evap and Idle Air Control. Had the battery and alternator and started checked and they tested fine. Then sometimes you'd go to start it and it wouldn't start at all. Sometimes you'd turn the key to start and it wouldn't do anything. No lights on the dash..nothing. Then you could turn back and try again and start right up. Then a couple of times the Air Bag light flashed on and off a few times and went off while driving. Once it did this and the spedometer went to 0 while the airbag light flashed. I was giving it gas, but the pedal went to the floor and the car started slowing down. I tried the gas pump a couple more times and then everything went back to normal. Had an appointment to take it to the chevy dealer, but it will not start at all now! Cleaned the Throttle Body, Replaced Air Filter, and Put on a new Fuel Pump. Car still won't start. You turn the key and try to start it and it just sputters and quits. Before the fuel pump, the gas line barely had any pressure, now the pressure seems to be fine, but still won't start. Any suggestions??????
 

jrSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
3,950
Sounds like a vacuum leak. All hoses and clamps for air box on and secured??
That's a start
 

bedbug

Member
Dec 5, 2011
10
Need to fill out the vehicle profile so that someone can offer their advice and suggestions. Mileage? etc. This info helps you get some replies in a hurry. Oh, and welcome to the forum:tiphat:
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
Sorry! It's a 4.2L 6 cylinder. Mileage around 92,000. EXT with 3rd row seating if that helps.

jrSS said:
Sounds like a vacuum leak. All hoses and clamps for air box on and secured??
That's a start

Air box? One hose was disconnected near the tank where the fuel goes in, but they fixed that......I was wondering if that was causing the Evap leak.
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
Peggy said:
Then it started quitting on my after I'd start it and before I could put it in gear. Check engine light codes said Gross Leak Evap and Idle Air Control. Had the battery and alternator and started checked and they tested fine. Then sometimes you'd go to start it and it wouldn't start at all. Sometimes you'd turn the key to start and it wouldn't do anything. No lights on the dash..nothing. Then you could turn back and try again and start right up. Then a couple of times the Air Bag light flashed on and off a few times and went off while driving. Once it did this and the spedometer went to 0 while the airbag light flashed. I was giving it gas, but the pedal went to the floor and the car started slowing down. I tried the gas pump a couple more times and then everything went back to normal. Had an appointment to take it to the chevy dealer, but it will not start at all now! Cleaned the Throttle Body, Replaced Air Filter, and Put on a new Fuel Pump. Car still won't start. You turn the key and try to start it and it just sputters and quits. Before the fuel pump, the gas line barely had any pressure, now the pressure seems to be fine, but still won't start. Any suggestions??????
try swapping out the ignition switch. common cause of a lot of problems like this
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
Forgot to mention that the low engine power light came on today for the first time too! I'll be sure to mention ignition switch to my uncle. Can that be gotten at an auto store or is it a dealer part?
 

ConeKilrAutoX

Member
Dec 8, 2011
1,179

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
i bought one from autozone, it was exactly the same as the OE part down to the markings.
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
Now it won't even try to start............you turn the key and it just sputters and stops.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Peggy said:
Now it won't even try to start............you turn the key and it just sputters and stops.
Who's working on it, and have they changed the ignition switch yet? What's their experience level with electrical troubleshooting and can you get them to come to the forum? In case you're the one doing the repair, this process is a give and take. You describe symptoms, we suggest things to to, and then you report back the results. A non-stop list of symptoms isn't an efficient way to get it fixed, because there isn't one smoking gun thing that can cause every thing you're seeing. But the ignition switch is a cheap $30 start to the process.
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
We are going to try replacing the ignition switch today if we can. It's my uncle...he's worked on cars all his life...self taught.
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
Peggy said:
Someone please help me figure out what is wrong with my vehicle!! First it started putting itself into 4x4 while driving it. That wasn't too much of a problem cause I could turn the switch and turn it back and it came out just fine. Then it started quitting on my after I'd start it and before I could put it in gear. Check engine light codes said Gross Leak Evap and Idle Air Control. Had the battery and alternator and started checked and they tested fine. Then sometimes you'd go to start it and it wouldn't start at all. Sometimes you'd turn the key to start and it wouldn't do anything. No lights on the dash..nothing. Then you could turn back and try again and start right up. Then a couple of times the Air Bag light flashed on and off a few times and went off while driving. Once it did this and the spedometer went to 0 while the airbag light flashed. I was giving it gas, but the pedal went to the floor and the car started slowing down. I tried the gas pump a couple more times and then everything went back to normal. Had an appointment to take it to the chevy dealer, but it will not start at all now! Cleaned the Throttle Body, Replaced Air Filter, and Put on a new Fuel Pump. Car still won't start. You turn the key and try to start it and it just sputters and quits. Before the fuel pump, the gas line barely had any pressure, now the pressure seems to be fine, but still won't start. Any suggestions??????

And this all happened over a what? I'm guessing a 2 year period??? From the description you made it sound like this all happened in a weeks time which seems unlikely. The most important thing to do here is to make sure you have fuel and spark. The main reason for a nonstart is due to a fuel issue (fuse, relay or pump). If it cranks but doesn't start then a distant second would be due to a failed Crankshaft position Sensor. What codes do you have? Autozone or Advance Auto can scan it for you.
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
CaptainXL said:
And this all happened over a what? I'm guessing a 2 year period??? From the description you made it sound like this all happened in a weeks time which seems unlikely. The most important thing to do here is to make sure you have fuel and spark. The main reason for a nonstart is due to a fuel issue (fuse, relay or pump). If it cranks but doesn't start then a distant second would be due to a failed Crankshaft position Sensor. What codes do you have? Autozone or Advance Auto can scan it for you.

Actually it happened within about a 2-3 week period. I can't get it to an Advance to get the code ran again, but it had said evap leak and idle air. However those 2 have been on for a year and it's ran just fine.
 

triz

Member
Apr 22, 2013
746
Is it a stock intake or aftermarket? Sounds like a faulty MAF or Vacuum issue near the intake. Double check for any cracked lines give em a wiggle.
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
Peggy said:
Actually it happened within about a 2-3 week period. I can't get it to an Advance to get the code ran again, but it had said evap leak and idle air. However those 2 have been on for a year and it's ran just fine.

I would not ignore a check engine light or codes set. Did you know that other codes are more than likely waiting until you get those fixed? The PCM will withhold tests until certain prerequisites are met. I would address your issues asap.
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
My uncle's looking at it today...........anyone think it could be a problem with the ignition coil?
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
Peggy said:
My uncle's looking at it today...........anyone think it could be a problem with the ignition coil?

There are 6 coils. So its not likely. Did you get the ignition switch replaced?
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
CaptainXL said:
There are 6 coils. So its not likely. Did you get the ignition switch replaced?

When I called my local Advance Auto, they told me that replacing the ignition switch would involve a new set of keys??? I didn't think this is what you guys were talking about b/c the link shared above showed just a little box under the steering wheel being replaced. However I went to school with the guy that told me this and he never was the brightest tool in the box if you know what I mean. I told my uncle that's what you guys suggested, and he had to leave to go to his doctor's appointment. I'm not sure what he's going to do yet, but he said something about the ignition coil so I thought I'd ask. At this point I'm about ready to torch it! LOL. J/k. I really do wish I knew more about cars. My mom would not let me take auto mechanics in school... :sadcry:
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
Ok guys, my uncle borrowed the code reader from Advance and brought it out and the codes that came back were Throttle Activator control module and Throttle Activator Position Performance. Which the Chevy guy told me could be a sensor, wires, throttle, or the whole gas pedal. Basically at this point I think I'm gonna have to tow it in. :sadcry:
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Peggy said:
When I called my local Advance Auto, they told me that replacing the ignition switch would involve a new set of keys??? I didn't think this is what you guys were talking about b/c the link shared above showed just a little box under the steering wheel being replaced. However I went to school with the guy that told me this and he never was the brightest tool in the box if you know what I mean.
If parts clerks were competent mechanics they would have jobs as mechanics. :lipsrsealed:
I told my uncle that's what you guys suggested, and he had to leave to go to his doctor's appointment. I'm not sure what he's going to do yet, but he said something about the ignition coil so I thought I'd ask.
Could be a coil, but there would be a code for misfire if that was the case.
At this point I'm about ready to torch it! LOL. J/k. I really do wish I knew more about cars.
No reason you can't go to the library or adult education or the local comm college and get some training at any age.
My mom would not let me take auto mechanics in school... :sadcry:
I thought those sort of parents died out with the dinosaurs. Sigh.... Sympathies. Talk to Voymom.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,494
Ottawa, ON
Peggy said:
Ok guys, my uncle borrowed the code reader from Advance and brought it out and the codes that came back were Throttle Activator control module and Throttle Activator Position Performance. Which the Chevy guy told me could be a sensor, wires, throttle, or the whole gas pedal. Basically at this point I think I'm gonna have to tow it in. :sadcry:

To me, this sounds like the throttle body itself is pooched as both of these sound like they're in the the TB itself. If it was just the pedal, it has its own code and it would at least start and idle and then the REP light would come on when you tried to push the pedal. If you have a u-pull-it yard near you, get a used one and swap it out or get a used one from a regular used parts yard. Clean it as per instructions here and disconnect the battery while you're replacing it to reset the PCM.
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
Car was just towed. At least my roadside assistance covered that........will no more once the dealer looks at it. :sadcry:
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
Could be the throttle but my bet is on the +5 vdc reference circuit from the throttle to the fan clutch harness.

Penny, if you are having the dealer working on it make sure to get a proper estimate with diagnostic proof and codes of what's wrong. You might be able to get by this with just a simple repair.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,494
Ottawa, ON
The 5V reference is a good point but my bet is still on the throttle body. Both error codes were for the throttle activator, which is controlled by the PCM to open and close the throttle. If it had been the 5V reference, it would have been a sensor error code.

And please do keep us updated so we know what it was (and who wins the bet :biggrin:). Hopefully the stealership won't rob you blind. :hissyfit:
 

MAY03LT

Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
Peggy said:
My mom would not let me take auto mechanics in school... :sadcry:

My mother in law was always fascinated by auto repair. Back in her day, women were supposed to be barefoot and pregnant, so she never got the opportunity to do anything herself. Thirty some years later she replaced the rear pads and rotors on her Impala. I provided the tools and talked her through it but she did all the work. She said that was one of the coolest things that she ever did. It's never too late to learn something, especially with the help of the internet.
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
So far they've found the ignition switch is bad, and possibly the PCM. $191 to fix the ignition switch, and they are going to retest it after that. The first diagnostic ran me about $98, but the 2nd if free apparently. I'm really hoping it's not the PCM as they will charge $665 to fix that. Thanks for the help, and I really wish my uncle had changed the ignition switch!!!
 

Phantom

Member
Jun 17, 2012
277
Peggy said:
So far they've found the ignition switch is bad, and possibly the PCM. $191 to fix the ignition switch, and they are going to retest it after that. The first diagnostic ran me about $98, but the 2nd if free apparently. I'm really hoping it's not the PCM as they will charge $665 to fix that. Thanks for the help, and I really wish my uncle had changed the ignition switch!!!

Just go with a tune from PCM of NC will cost you $200 and be alot better than stock. Nothing to it except doing a case relearn witch is like $35-50 at a shop. dealers want $75 and up, and I assure you, the tune is worth it.
 

jimmyjam

Member
Nov 18, 2011
1,634
Oh well, next time he doesn't listen to us, remind him about the extra buck fifty it cost him last time :wink:
 

Peggy

Original poster
Member
May 15, 2013
12
Phantom said:
Just go with a tune from PCM of NC will cost you $200 and be alot better than stock. Nothing to it except doing a case relearn witch is like $35-50 at a shop. dealers want $75 and up, and I assure you, the tune is worth it.

Sorry, but I don't understand any of that! ^^^^^^
Not much of a mechanic myself and until yesterday I'd never heard of a PCM. I've heard people talk about a car's "computer". Is that what you mean?
 

Phantom

Member
Jun 17, 2012
277
Peggy said:
Sorry, but I don't understand any of that! ^^^^^^
Not much of a mechanic myself and until yesterday I'd never heard of a PCM. I've heard people talk about a car's "computer". Is that what you mean?

Yes The "computer" is the pcm. There is a site http://http://www.pcmofnc.com/ They will program the computer for your truck and it is alot cheaper than the $665 that the dealer will charge. It is well worth it, ask anybody on here. Just another option if the dealership says new pcm.
 

CaptainXL

Member
Dec 4, 2011
2,445
Phantom said:
Yes The "computer" is the pcm. There is a site http://http://www.pcmofnc.com/ They will program the computer for your truck and it is alot cheaper than the $665 that the dealer will charge. It is well worth it, ask anybody on here. Just another option if the dealership says new pcm.

Phantom. Please can you stop recommending tunes to strictly fix problems with Pcm's?

It's not a very accurate diagnosis to make and a waste of money at worst. Its highly unlikely the pcm is damaged. Even if it is its only $90 to program one at the dealer.

You don't want the customer to be getting into fuel octane or catalytic converter issues using a tune.
 

Phantom

Member
Jun 17, 2012
277
CaptainXL said:
Phantom. Please can you stop recommending tunes to strictly fix problems with Pcm's?

It's not a very accurate diagnosis to make and a waste of money at worst. Its highly unlikely the pcm is damaged. Even if it is its only $90 to program one at the dealer.

You don't want the customer to be getting into fuel octane or catalytic converter issues using a tune.

I wasnt saying that the tune WOULD fix the problem, I WAS saying that a tune would be cheaper than letting the dealership replace it. No where in my post did i say that it would FIX the issuse at hand.
 

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