does anyone have a link on how to change the mount mounts? i googled it but didnt find what i was looking for maybe i didnt word it right? any help would be great thanks guys.
motor mounts
- Thread starter cmatb08
- Start date
scratch that can anyone point out the mounts? i have never done this before and tryin to save a lil money i have been told this isnt hard but like i said i have never done this thanks guys.
Run a search on the old site by Googling for this:
change motor mounts site:trailvoy.com
Extensively discussed back there when we were all members, before the "unpleasantness".
They're pretty obvious - have you looked for 'em yet? Here's what they look like removed:
change motor mounts site:trailvoy.com
Extensively discussed back there when we were all members, before the "unpleasantness".
They're pretty obvious - have you looked for 'em yet? Here's what they look like removed:
i havent looked yet my wifes mom came in to town and her sister just had a baby so its been crazy around here! from what i read its pretty easy so im hoping it goes smoothly! i dont see how perfect motor mounts according to the dealer when we got the new motor and in like 10-15k miles they went bad
!?
!?
I'm glad your "!" key works, but you need a bit more caps and punctuation in your paragraph structure to make sense.cmatb08 said:i havent looked yet my wifes mom came in to town and her sister just had a baby so its been crazy around here! from what i read its pretty easy so im hoping it goes smoothly! i dont see how perfect motor mounts according to the dealer when we got the new motor and in like 10-15k miles they went bad
!?
If you have new motor mounts, why do you think they need to be changed?
If you have OLD motor mounts, again - why do you think they need to be changed?
the roadie said:
we had a new motor put in our tb because people cant read a dipstick! we all know what 80mph with a 1qt of oil in a motor does. so while it was in the dealership gettin a new motor put in they changed a few things but the motor mounts werent one of them. i even asked if everything else was ok mounts, injectors, transmission pretty much the major thing and they told me that evrything was ok and nothing else needed to be changed. 10-15k miles after the new motor was put in the factory motor mounts are shot and need to be replaced! even though the dealership said that everything was ok. i have heard of things goin bad but not that fast when they were fine. unless they said the mounts were fine hoping they would go out and i can bring it back in so it can sit in their service area for another week before they touch it.
they mounts are the original motor mounts.
I don't think anybody can look at a motor mount, observe an engine with no 10 Hz vibration in DRIVE, and predict the motor mount is about to collapse soon and cause the vibration that means you have to change them.
Wooluf1952
Member
Or inches? 
JEvans
Member
- Aug 6, 2012
- 14
Pittdawg said:
Ok, I am getting a noticable vibration on my '02 LTZ & have been told by my chevy Vette shop manager, that the engine mounts should be replaced, that unless they are split or broken, i have some time to save up for the repair bill. He seemed to think they are not vital at this time. I did the same test as Pittdawg describes above, & the engine did not jump out of the engine bay of my Trailblazer. I am inclined to believe that the new serpentine belt is very taught & may cause some of the vibes ! I agree with Roadie on this one !
"I don't think anybody can look at a motor mount, observe an engine with no 10 Hz vibration in DRIVE, and predict the motor mount is about to collapse soon and cause the vibration that means you have to change them. "
SILVOY
Member
- Jan 23, 2012
- 16
JEvans said:Ok, I am getting a noticable vibration on my '02 LTZ & have been told by my chevy Vette shop manager, that the engine mounts should be replaced, that unless they are split or broken, i have some time to save up for the repair bill. He seemed to think they are not vital at this time. I did the same test as Pittdawg describes above, & the engine did not jump out of the engine bay of my Trailblazer. I am inclined to believe that the new serpentine belt is very taught & may cause some of the vibes ! I agree with Roadie on this one !
"I don't think anybody can look at a motor mount, observe an engine with no 10 Hz vibration in DRIVE, and predict the motor mount is about to collapse soon and cause the vibration that means you have to change them. "
the vibrations could be coming from another spot...on my envoy i had vibrations when romping on the gas getting on freeway onramps..i couldnt find out what was going on until one day i was cleaning my engine compartment while it was idling and noticed the crank shaft pulley was wobbling around quite a bit! i found that the pulley was not centered and needed to be repositioned and tightended..no more vibrations! haha it random how i noticed it but thank god cause it saved me $$$ if i had to bring it to a shop..it may not be your cause but check your pulleys when idling.. hope this helps anyone with similar issues..
Dillyo82
Member
- Aug 17, 2012
- 80
Looking for a set of Mounts. Found these on Ebay. They say "Made in Korea". Are the Factory Mounts made in Korea?
Chevy GM Olds Saab Trailblazer Envoy Motor Mounts GM (C228-FE)(Qty 2) | eBay
Chevy GM Olds Saab Trailblazer Envoy Motor Mounts GM (C228-FE)(Qty 2) | eBay
Dad-O-Matic
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 228
Dillyo82 said:
I've bought genuine AC/Delco parts made in Japan, China and Mexico. Made in Korea wouldn't bother me anymore than any other country.
GCTB1289
Member
- Mar 19, 2012
- 699
I visit Korea 3-4 times a year. It is in no way a third world place. Seoul is indistinguishable from NYC or London. The proof is that THEY outsource jobs to China and other lower-cost countries.Dillyo82 said:
Sorry for the duplicate post, but am not getting any response!
Does anyone see any benefit to removing motor mount brackets, upper or lower, to facilitate motor mount replacement?
In order to replace the motor mount? I have read that one member removed his top bracket because it was cracked & proceeded to do the same on the other side. It allowed him to not have to lift the motor as much to get the mounts in. I am proposing to remove the lower brackets, as the bolts are easily accessible. Seems like after removing the top nut, lifting the engine slightly & removing the lower bracket with the motor mount. Install the new mount on the lower bracket & reinstalling the assy., lowering the engine & installing the top nut.
The advantages, as I see it, are;
Minimal lifting of the engine.
Most of the work done from the side (bracket bolts) & from above (top nut).
One concern is whether there's enough room to get the lower bracket, with motor mount attached, out of there.
Any comments are welcome.
Thanks,
kev
Does anyone see any benefit to removing motor mount brackets, upper or lower, to facilitate motor mount replacement?
In order to replace the motor mount? I have read that one member removed his top bracket because it was cracked & proceeded to do the same on the other side. It allowed him to not have to lift the motor as much to get the mounts in. I am proposing to remove the lower brackets, as the bolts are easily accessible. Seems like after removing the top nut, lifting the engine slightly & removing the lower bracket with the motor mount. Install the new mount on the lower bracket & reinstalling the assy., lowering the engine & installing the top nut.
The advantages, as I see it, are;
Minimal lifting of the engine.
Most of the work done from the side (bracket bolts) & from above (top nut).
One concern is whether there's enough room to get the lower bracket, with motor mount attached, out of there.
Any comments are welcome.
Thanks,
kev
My worry was the bolts to the engine look accessible, but I had little confidence they would come out as easy as the ones on the mounts themselves. The factory shop manual describes your procedure, so it's not an unreasonable idea.
the roadie said:
Thanks for responding roadie. Do you think that the lower brackets would be a better choice? These bolts are very easy to get to, if I am looking at the right ones. You mention that the shop manual mentions removing the brackets. Which do they recommend to remove? Upper or lower? BTW My motivation to do it this way is mainly to minimize the possibility that I would have some of the issues that others have had. Mainly having to lift the engine a lot to get the clearance needed to get the mounts in.
Thanks,
kev
That is totally true.SBUBandit said:
OEM mounts are the only ones guaranteed to solve the 10 Hz rotational vibration issue. Aftermarket ones have different dynamics. Don't use 'em.
Dad-O-Matic
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 228
bugeyed said:
This is on my to do list. I think I'll try this method first, It seems to be the better way to do it. If I get it done in time, I'll report back on how it went
Dad-O-Matic said:
Dad-O, How soon do you think you will attempt this? One member removed the top brackets, 'cause one was cracked, & didn't have a problem. Roadie mentioned that the manual describes my procedure, "after removing the mount top nut, lifting the engine slightly & removing the lower bracket with the motor mount attached. Install the new mount on the lower bracket & reinstalling the assy., lowering the engine & installing the mount top nut." I am assuming that the shop manual specifically said to remove the lower bracket, not sure. Wish I had the shop manual. Please let me know what you are thinking about doing & if I do it first, I will exchange notes.
Thanks,
kev
Dad-O-Matic
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 228
bugeyed said:
IDK, probably within the next month. It's not critical now, the vibration is just annoying. Hoping it'll hold 'til I get a free weekend.
meerschm
Member
- Aug 26, 2012
- 1,079
I have not done this, but have the manual for my 2003. motor mounts discussed at the start of the engine mechanical p 70 in my manual.
have you looked here for manuals?
http://gmtnation.com/f23/need-service-manuals-get-them-here-371/
a quick surf of the OS and it sounds like the 4wd is more challenging, and that either the bracket has to come off, or you will have to cut some of the stud off the new mount to get it to fit.
mention of either removing fan (with clutch) or at least remove rad shroud mounting bolts for clearance. and perhaps pulling the Throttle body off to get more room. not sure if this makes a difference for the 4wd, since the axles may be the limiting factor in lifting the motor.
I learned enough to hope these do not fail on mine. I have 143kmiles but stay pretty much on the road and don't really goose it unless some truck needs to be passed in a hurry.
good luck.
have you looked here for manuals?
http://gmtnation.com/f23/need-service-manuals-get-them-here-371/
a quick surf of the OS and it sounds like the 4wd is more challenging, and that either the bracket has to come off, or you will have to cut some of the stud off the new mount to get it to fit.
mention of either removing fan (with clutch) or at least remove rad shroud mounting bolts for clearance. and perhaps pulling the Throttle body off to get more room. not sure if this makes a difference for the 4wd, since the axles may be the limiting factor in lifting the motor.
I learned enough to hope these do not fail on mine. I have 143kmiles but stay pretty much on the road and don't really goose it unless some truck needs to be passed in a hurry.
good luck.
Thanks meerschm, dnldng it now. I had forgotten about this.
Was about to get one from the dealer.
OK, Dnlded the huge 02-05 set of PDF files from above link & can't find anything about the motor mounts. Oh well.
Cheers,
kev
Was about to get one from the dealer.
OK, Dnlded the huge 02-05 set of PDF files from above link & can't find anything about the motor mounts. Oh well.
Cheers,
kev
Mooseman
Moderator
Dillyo82 said:
Mine opened it fine. No Norton here.
BTW I was a bit disappointed with the manuals troubleshooting of the mounts. It doesn't mention the 10Hz vibration at all. That I read. Just basically a physical inspection implying that, if you can't see any defect (cracking, splits or leaking) when lifting the motor, the mount is good. Not so much of a procedure for replacing the engine mounts as instructions for removing the mounts & also the brackets. Helpful, but still leaves the decision to you to determine the easiest way to just replace mounts.
Cheers,
kev
Heck, half the dealers don't know the connection between vibration in DRIVE and a collapsed motor mount. I've read of dozens of misdiagnoses (all paid for by the owner) including changing throttle bodies, plug coils, etc. I didn't believe it for months and I had the syndrome!bugeyed said:
the roadie said:
I'm shocked!!!!!
Thankfully there are people like you who help us to know the truth! I am truly grateful. I guess the dealerships aren't motivated to find easy solutions to problems. Much more profitable to use shotgun approach.
Thanks,
kev
Dillyo82
Member
- Aug 17, 2012
- 80
Bought the Mounts from GMTNation.com.
Also got the GM Cleaner. Is it any good?
Is there a link to get these replaced?
I'm thinking of going with removing the top nut and then lifting engine and removing Lower Bracket with Mount.
Would like the easiest way though.
I have minimal tools as well.
Also got the GM Cleaner. Is it any good?
Is there a link to get these replaced?
I'm thinking of going with removing the top nut and then lifting engine and removing Lower Bracket with Mount.
Would like the easiest way though.
I have minimal tools as well.
Dillyo82
Member
- Aug 17, 2012
- 80
I'm replacing these Motor Mounts tomorrow, Studying up before the Big Exam and making sure I'm not going to run into a wall.
Looking at Roadie's Post and pics on the OS, he removed the inner CV joint to raise the Engine more. I have a 4x4 as well.
Here's what the Manual says. Is it that easy for both sides of the inner shaft to just hit the Tripot with a hammer?
"Disconnect the left side wheel drive shaft from the differential carrier
assembly by placing a brass drift against the tripot housing.
Firmly strike the brass drift outward from the case with a hammer.
Strike hard enough to overcome the snap ring pressure holding in the shaft."
I don't have a Clutch Removal Tool either, but have read you don't need one to remove the Fan.
Looking at Roadie's Post and pics on the OS, he removed the inner CV joint to raise the Engine more. I have a 4x4 as well.
Here's what the Manual says. Is it that easy for both sides of the inner shaft to just hit the Tripot with a hammer?
"Disconnect the left side wheel drive shaft from the differential carrier
assembly by placing a brass drift against the tripot housing.
Firmly strike the brass drift outward from the case with a hammer.
Strike hard enough to overcome the snap ring pressure holding in the shaft."
I don't have a Clutch Removal Tool either, but have read you don't need one to remove the Fan.
Mooseman
Moderator
You may need the clutch holding tool depending on how tight the nut is. If you have air tools, you can use an air chisel to remove the clutch just on the end of the hex in the direction to unscrew it. Or using a big wrench and hit it with a big hammer to loosen it. For both of these methods, you would leave the belt on. Or you could get a free rental clutch holding tool from your local auto parts store if it's really tight.
Dillyo82
Member
- Aug 17, 2012
- 80
bugeyed said:
I would like to consider this. I would not like to have to remove the Inner CV Shaft to lift the Engine more to get the Mounts out. I saw on the OS that Roadie did this. If I were to remove the Inner CV Drive Shaft, would the wheel, Hub, Rotor,Shock etc. have to come off to do this? Definitely did not like doing this for the Outer CV BOOT replacement.
Dillyo82
Member
- Aug 17, 2012
- 80
I tried doing the Motor Mount job last weekend, but picked up the wrong tool for the Fan Removal and had to stop until tomorrow.
I am going to make the tool that I got work to remove the Fan. It is a regular thread that loosens to the Left correct?
Any Penetrating oil, Heat, other Tricks to get it off. It's stuck on pretty good. Got two bolts to hold the Pulley and tried smacking it with a Hammer, but it didn't budge.
What will have to come off of the wheel assbly. for me to have to pull the axle out of the Case?
Would I need a Coil spring compressor tool to remove the coil assbly so I can remove my Lower Motor Mount bracket bolts or will the Coil ass. come out and go in without compressing the spring? Can't remember when I did the Nightmare of replacing the outer CV Boot.
I am going to make the tool that I got work to remove the Fan. It is a regular thread that loosens to the Left correct?
Any Penetrating oil, Heat, other Tricks to get it off. It's stuck on pretty good. Got two bolts to hold the Pulley and tried smacking it with a Hammer, but it didn't budge.
What will have to come off of the wheel assbly. for me to have to pull the axle out of the Case?
Would I need a Coil spring compressor tool to remove the coil assbly so I can remove my Lower Motor Mount bracket bolts or will the Coil ass. come out and go in without compressing the spring? Can't remember when I did the Nightmare of replacing the outer CV Boot.
Dad-O-Matic
Member
- Dec 5, 2011
- 228
Dillyo82 said:
Yep, if your standing in front of the truck it's counterclockwise just like a regular nut. I tried the BFH method but couldn't get it off without the loaner tool from the parts store. I didn't need anything else to get it off, YMMV.
I just got my mount, hoping to install it this weekend or next, hope yours goes smoothly.
