Or, can you simply remove it and clean/lube it? I can look it up but since you have removed them yourself, what is the difficulty?Front Axle 4WD Disconnect Rebuild | offroadTB.com
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Plus I have read here and there where folks have sourced a slightly wider bearing for the most common failed outer bearing and another owner who added a zerk fitting to allow the addition of grease? Not sure if that last one helps or not I am considering adding such near that outer bearing that most often fails first.
Misconceptions and oddities about our platform
- Thread starter IllogicTC
- Start date
The difficulty comes in the removal. The assembly has a bearing boss that fits inside the passageway in the oil pan. It is a pretty close fit and often there is corrosion that tends to bind the two aluminum pieces together. It is not uncommon for someone to break the cast aluminum assembly while trying to pry the thing out of the oil pan. The result is not pretty.
In addition there is a fair amount of work removing suspension components and the CV axle first before one even gets to the disconnect assembly removal.
In addition there is a fair amount of work removing suspension components and the CV axle first before one even gets to the disconnect assembly removal.
@TJBaker57 and @Mooseman, for some reason I had this pop in to my head while watching the games today. Since you have removed the disconnect before, is it possible to remove the axle and the disconnect as one unit and separate on the ground or is that just a waste of time? I am always looking for a way to "work smart" and "not hard" and was just wondering if this aspect accomplishes anything.
When I replaced my disconnect in 2014 or 15 the CV axle would not budge so I did just that, removed the two together.
Cannot say if it is easier as I have thus far only done it the one time.... so far.
Cannot say if it is easier as I have thus far only done it the one time.... so far.
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So, @Mooseman, what you're saying is that the inner splines have the notorious cir-clip set up, I knew it did already, that never releases as easy as is supposed to. The old 2 angle head pry bar tips, 180 degrees across from each other, and pop them at the same time, does not get the axle to pop out like is supposed to. I always have new cir-clips at the ready for reinstallation.
Correct. A hammer and drift or using a slide hammer with an attachment like this are necessary:
And I never heard of anyone needing to replace that circlip. It's a tough little bugger.
I agree that the cir-clips are tough. I had come across the need a couple times in the shops I ran though. I have had the same pair of cir-clips in my box for years though. I know of that slide hammer set up but no longer have that specific tool and attachment. When in the shops, before retirement, I had a complete set of Snap On tools mixed with Mac and Matco and Cornwell and Thorsen and SK. My retirement and move caused me to sell off some specialty tools and that set was one of them and have not re-purchased lots of those specialty tools. I believe I can rent though. Thanks.
Sqrly
Member
Something I found odd is the rear tire (35psi) pressure being higher then the front (30 psi).
It doesn't say "when towing" it's just the normal pressures.
It doesn't say "when towing" it's just the normal pressures.
l008com
Member
Sqrly
Member
I really hate asking this because I do not want to do that ^^^^^ but ....
How would one check if it needed taken off and repacked?
I still haven't done the lower a-frame bushings yet. I've been holding off until we're ready to get new tires so I can get the alignment done at the same time. If I have to do this also, may as well do it with the bushings.
Sqrly
Member
When I researched it I read somewhere to stick with the reccomended pressures as all the parts of the suspension are designed to work in unison and changing the tire pressure would throw that off.
The ride is very smooth and quiet yet feels solid. It ain't broke so I'm not fixing it.
l008com
Member
Well I have also replaced my springs with stiffer spring, replaced my shocks with stiffer shocks, replaced my swaybar bushings and endlinks with stuffer bushings and endlinks, and replaced the rear swaybar entirely with a stuffer one.
So no need to worry about updating it's delicate suspension balance.
So no need to worry about updating it's delicate suspension balance.
It likely does, even if it works well. It came from the factory with garbage grease and is likely congealed. As preventive maintenance, recommend to take it off and repack it with a good quality synthetic grease (I like Lucas' Red n Tacky) whenever you happen to take out the right axle .
