Lower control arm/ball joint assemblies

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I think roadie n Fishsticks like em.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
Yep. I recommend them especially if you need ball joints AND the other bushings at the same time. I damaged everything over years of offroading, and for $150 they were a snap to install. Only drawback is the bushing for the lower strut mounting pin was a bit further in than the OEM unit, so it made it impossible to use my former pittman arm puller tool to take the struts off. Had to resort to one of the other two ways to get them off.
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,950
North Las Vegas
Those are wat fishsticks bought to replace his with.
 

floridafitz

Member
Jan 2, 2012
151
Winter Springs FL
Curious...why buy the whole assembly when you can buy just the base plate and ball joint. Is the labor saving that great?
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
the roadie said:
Yep. I recommend them especially if you need ball joints AND the other bushings at the same time. I damaged everything over years of offroading, and for $150 they were a snap to install. Only drawback is the bushing for the lower strut mounting pin was a bit further in than the OEM unit, so it made it impossible to use my former pittman arm puller tool to take the struts off. Had to resort to one of the other two ways to get them off.

floridafitz said:
Curious...why buy the whole assembly when you can buy just the base plate and ball joint. Is the labor saving that great?

The other bushings wear out too. I just did my ball joints but will likely replace whole thing next time.
 

floridafitz

Member
Jan 2, 2012
151
Winter Springs FL
What other bushings are there? The new base plate has the bushings for the whole arm...right?
 

gmcman

Original poster
Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,655
Given the mileage at 162K, I want to replace the bushings as well. If swapping all the bushings isn't a real pita then I may consider it. Just reading some posts it seems to be a project.....correct me if I'm wrong.

A premium set of bushings would be the only option if i retain my old arms.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
floridafitz said:
What other bushings are there? The new base plate has the bushings for the whole arm...right?
There are three bushings, and until recently, nobody in the aftermarket made replacements. GM only offered the entire assembly. And pressing out the bushings is reportedly a difficult job unless you have a respectable 10 or 20-ton press. For $150 a side, I opted for a wholesale swap, and then I got to keep my old ones for emergency trail spares.

View attachment 18167
 

Attachments

  • 1.jpg
    1.jpg
    59.4 KB · Views: 11

floridafitz

Member
Jan 2, 2012
151
Winter Springs FL
Okay...thanks for setting me straight. Showing my ignorance. The whole assembly makes sense now. Guess you don't mind going to a Mevotech ball joint that requires greasing as opposed to the ACDelco's that are sealed. Or am I mistaken again?
 

Regulator

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,496
floridafitz said:
Okay...thanks for setting me straight. Showing my ignorance. The whole assembly makes sense now. Guess you don't mind going to a Mevotech ball joint that requires greasing as opposed to the ACDelco's that are sealed. Or am I mistaken again?

A serviceable unit is always preferred to a sealed and unserviceable unit.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
the roadie said:
Sealed bearings are an invention of the devil and cheap-ass auto manufacturers who wanted to save a dime. Give me an old-fashioned Zerk fitting any day.

Regulator said:
A serviceable unit is always preferred to a sealed and unserviceable unit.

the roadie said:
How do you have more posts than I, while saying the same things? :raspberry:

I really like to be able to service and grease my unit.
 

Regulator

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,496
the roadie said:
How do you have more posts than I, while saying the same things? :raspberry:

I missed this post.

In my defense, our post time stamps were only a minute apart. I imagine that I was writing my post when you made yours. Although, maybe I will start stalking you and reiterating whatever you post. :raspberry:
 

yonkerss

Member
Apr 7, 2012
24
Do you guys recommend using the same brand - Mevotech for the upper conrol arms?

MEVOTECH Part # MS50104
MEVOTECH Part # MS50105
 

yonkerss

Member
Apr 7, 2012
24
Thanks!

Dormans have held up well on your vehicle so far? Ours is just a stocker so if they work for your truck I am sure they will be great on ours! These the UCA most of you guys are running?
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
yonkerss said:
Thanks!

Dormans have held up well on your vehicle so far? Ours is just a stocker so if they work for your truck I am sure they will be great on ours! These the UCA most of you guys are running?

I think most are just running stock...
 

yonkerss

Member
Apr 7, 2012
24
Well I editted this post.

I thought the upper conrol arms came with the ball joint but after looking closer, they do not. Is there much reason to replace the factory upper control arms?

Should I just replace the bushings or is it still better to just buy new uppers with the bushins already in place? This vehicle is my wife's daily driver and I need to have the job done in a day.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
yonkerss said:
Is there much reason to replace the factory upper control arms?
Only if they break (it's happened) or the bushings are show and allow movement. For $50 (what I found Dormans for that came with new bushings) I didn't even CONSIDER taking the old ones out and pressing in new bushings. And then it's a half-hour job per side if you're aggressive with getting the sheet metal out of the way of the mounting bolts, especially the forward ones.
 

yonkerss

Member
Apr 7, 2012
24
Thanks for all the info! New UCA, LCA, Stablizer Bar Links, Bushings (ones not included in control arms) and upper ball joints (lower ball joints in the new LCA) all ordered!
 

woody79

Member
Dec 3, 2011
351
yonkerss said:
Thanks for all the info! New UCA, LCA, Stablizer Bar Links, Bushings (ones not included in control arms) and upper ball joints (lower ball joints in the new LCA) all ordered!

Sounds like you have your work cut out for you :biggrin: Maybe a how-to is in order?
 

yonkerss

Member
Apr 7, 2012
24
I should be alright doing it all based on the info on the forum here and the old place. I also do have a freind helping me so the job should go a little quicker then a single person doing it. Also why I did new upper and lower control arms to save on time a bit. Figured the truck just went over 100k miles, the lower ball joints are needing to be replaced and I should do the rest of this stuff as good preventative maintenance.
 

seanpooh

Member
Jan 24, 2012
461
If you're going to replace the upper and lower balljoint, it may be time to also replace the wheel hub assemble since you're there. And also the tie rod and cv joints. Oh, and sway bar bushing. I guess the list keeps going on and on. At this rate, buy a new vehicle :biggrin:

Your front end will be tight and snug.

I did press out my old upper control arm bushings and pushed new ones in. Getting those two bolts out weren't hard at all. The only place was the driver side torwards the front. Took a pry bar and bent the sheet metal just a smidge.

The moog sway bar links I don't approve of though. Especially after a few winters and constant greasing, it doesn't hold up well. I opted for ones by MaxxxSupsensions that use bushings.

Don't forget a wheel alignment from a good workshop.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
seanpooh said:
If you're going to replace the upper and lower balljoint, it may be time to also replace the wheel hub assemble since you're there. And also the tie rod and cv joints. Oh, and sway bar bushing. I guess the list keeps going on and on. At this rate, buy a new vehicle :biggrin:

Your front end will be tight and snug.

I did press out my old upper control arm bushings and pushed new ones in. Getting those two bolts out weren't hard at all. The only place was the driver side torwards the front. Took a pry bar and bent the sheet metal just a smidge.

The moog sway bar links I don't approve of though. Especially after a few winters and constant greasing, it doesn't hold up well. I opted for ones by MaxxxSupsensions that use bushings.

Don't forget a wheel alignment from a good workshop.

Get new tires and wheels. Repaint the truck and get a new interior while your at it. Will be like a new truck when you are done.:raspberry:
 

Sparky

Member
Dec 4, 2011
12,927
I'm of the opinion "if it ain't broke don't fix it." Hubs + CV axles add a decent amount of extra cost, so unless there are issues with them I wouldn't bother replacing them.
 

salvo2002

Member
Dec 5, 2011
34
the roadie said:
Yep. I recommend them especially if you need ball joints AND the other bushings at the same time. I damaged everything over years of offroading, and for $150 they were a snap to install. Only drawback is the bushing for the lower strut mounting pin was a bit further in than the OEM unit, so it made it impossible to use my former pittman arm puller tool to take the struts off. Had to resort to one of the other two ways to get them off.

I plan on replacing the LCA's (MOOG whole assembly), the UCA's (Doorman), upper BJ's (MOOG), and the end links (MOOG). I read on the OS when replacing the lower BJ's on a 4x4 you have to remove the axle nut and detach the shaft from the hub assembly. If I am replacing the whole assembly does hub assembly need to be detached?
 

seanpooh

Member
Jan 24, 2012
461
It would be an even easier job but a hassle to remove everything off the knuckle such as caliper mount, rotors, hub assembly and etc. Then again bushings and balljoints are a hassle.

If you are doing the whole suspension, arms and all, by all means take the hub off. It isn't hard to take off or put on. Make sure to have blue loctite and a torque wrench.

If you take the hub, caliper, tierod, pickle the LBJ out and release the pinch, you'll have the knuckle off.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Repaint it
..bedazzle it
..whatever
 

Hypnotoad

Member
Dec 5, 2011
1,584
I changed my lower ball joints by leaving the hubs connected to the axle shafts. I don't remember everything I removed exactly, but I ended up maneuvering the knuckle and axle shaft over and set it on a short step stool.

It's probably easier to just remove the axle, but my socket set only went up to 32mm. And I didn't want to make another run to the auto parts store for a $20 socket.

It's a 35mm you'll need if you're going to take the nut off.
 

yonkerss

Member
Apr 7, 2012
24
salvo2002 said:
I plan on replacing the LCA's (MOOG whole assembly), the UCA's (Doorman), upper BJ's (MOOG), and the end links (MOOG). I read on the OS when replacing the lower BJ's on a 4x4 you have to remove the axle nut and detach the shaft from the hub assembly. If I am replacing the whole assembly does hub assembly need to be detached?


If you can get the ball joint press to work on the truck for the upper then you do not need to. I couldnt get the press to work so I removed the spindle completely and used a large free standing press to push out my upper ball joint and then press in the new one.
 

Hypnotoad

Member
Dec 5, 2011
1,584
yonkerss said:
If you can get the ball joint press to work on the truck for the upper then you do not need to. I couldnt get the press to work so I removed the spindle completely and used a large free standing press to push out my upper ball joint and then press in the new one.

Good point. You do need to separate the axle and hub to do the upper ball joint.

The upper ball joint can be replaced with the 23 piece ball joint kit from advance auto.

Here's the proof. http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-replace-front-wheel-hubs-upper-ball-joints-4978/
 

salvo2002

Member
Dec 5, 2011
34
Hypnotoad said:
Good point. You do need to separate the axle and hub to do the upper ball joint.

The upper ball joint can be replaced with the 23 piece ball joint kit from advance auto.

Here's the proof. http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-replace-front-wheel-hubs-upper-ball-joints-4978/

It's funny because I've read through that thread before but for some reason I thought the upper BJ was pressed into the UCA. :crazy: I Got it now (I paid a little more attention to detail). Thanks!
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,097
Posts
635,775
Members
18,155
Latest member
ibertbk

Members Online