loud fan , no power and doesnt want to go above 40

LordBear

Original poster
Member
Dec 22, 2011
186
so drove down town then home...then couple hrs later went to leave again.. got to top of heal and dropped into third coming down... got half way down and fan noise seem to get louder and car just didnt feel right. got down on highway and it felt like it was stuck in a low gear but id did drop eventually. pulled over checked what i can see and fluids and such.. all was fine. no lights no warning indicators or anything. so drove back home. still no indicators of anykind on dash... hooked up my reader any who and i came up with a code even though there was no check engine lights... P0495 fan clutch low speed or soemthing like that.

so... is my fan clutch gone and need replaced? if so would that cause your car not to have any power and feel like it is stuck in a low gear?
 

LordBear

Original poster
Member
Dec 22, 2011
186
that is the way that sounds.. so that will make you feel like your stuck in a low gear and have no power?
 

Menthol

Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
LordBear said:
that is the way that sounds.. so that will make you feel like your stuck in a low gear and have no power?

and very afraid to make a left in front of someone. I had mechanics told me they think it was the transmission. The lour roar is a sure telltale sign + you got the code.
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,956
North Las Vegas
More then likely your fan clutch is gone. I would clear the code and see what it does for now. It may buy you time to get one in if there isn't one available locally. Longview may be the closest place with one.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,660
While mine has been bad for awhile....it never really fully engaged except for a couple times, when it did holy crap. I have heard the jet plane phrase tossed around and it was loud on occasion but not like this, the jet engine is an accurate statement and yeah, I can see how going above 40 or 50 would be a chore.
 

LordBear

Original poster
Member
Dec 22, 2011
186
from looking around im thinking that i see 2 different fan clutches.. and you can upgrade to the other one? but it is thicker.. non thermal to a thermal?
 

LordBear

Original poster
Member
Dec 22, 2011
186
so should i get the 06 plus clutch or did they automaticly replace the bad clutches so thats all you get when u go to the parts store? so thenn all you have to do is update software?
 

LordBear

Original poster
Member
Dec 22, 2011
186
ok..just got a clutch... but haven a devil of a time getting those stupid flaps loose on the side of the shroud...one tore and havnt been able to the other 3 free...any ideas?
 

Menthol

Member
Dec 8, 2011
177
LordBear said:
ok..just got a clutch... but haven a devil of a time getting those stupid flaps loose on the side of the shroud...one tore and havnt been able to the other 3 free...any ideas?

Don't have a clue, mine broke when I just got my TB (used)for 3wks and had to take it to shop to do it. Some one esle can chime in.

Copy/Paste


tblazed06-13-2006, 07:24 PM
Here's step-by-step from a Haynes manual

Warning:The engine must be completely cool when this procedure is performed .

Note: A special fan clutch wrench is required (GM#46406 or Equivalent)

1.Remove the bolts and push pins that attach the intake air baffle to the radiator support,then remove the baffle. (On 2002s only)
2.Disconnect the transmission cooler lines at the engine bracket and fan shroud.
3.Disconnect the electro-viscous clutch electrical connector from the shroud.
4.Remove the upper radiator hose from the radiator;be prepared for coolant spillage.
5.Remove the fan clutch hub from the water pump by turning it counterclockwise.
6.Unclip the shroud from the radiator side panels then tilt the condenser and radiator forward.This will be easier if someone assists you.
7.Remove the fan and shroud as one unit by lifting straight up as the condenser and radiator are being held in the forward position.
8.The fan can now be unbolted from the clutch, if necessary.Be sure to tighten the fan-to-clutch bolts to the torque listed in this chapter's specifications(20 Ft.-Lbs.)!
9.Installation is reverse removal,Tighten the fan hub nut to the torque listed in this chapter's specifications(41 FT.-Lbs)!
10. Check the coolant,adding as necessary to bring it to the appropiate
 

neelskit

Member
Dec 7, 2011
69
To make this much easier, I notched out a section of the shroud under the upper radiator hose outlet. This way, once the shroud bolts and upper radiator hose are removed the shroud will slip past the outlet, eliminating the need to tilt the radiator and condenser.
 

gmcman

Member
Dec 12, 2011
4,660
Have you checked the exhaust for a plugged cat? If you cannot get above 40 for any reason that's where I would look. You would need to perform an exhaust back pressure test and most exhaust shops will do this for about 30 min of labor.
 

LordBear

Original poster
Member
Dec 22, 2011
186
job is done... ended up tearing the top holes on the flaps. reason i cldnt go above 40 was the limp home mode... should have erased the code before hand..but i think the clutch was on its way any how from what i understand... so the clutch and waterpump are now new.. paid 200 for the clutch and 54 for the new waterpump . the local gm stealership wanted 500 just for the clutch. no labor.

now back to trying to finger out the stalling while in reverse and sometimes in forward while starting from a stop...ggrrr.
 

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