I'm thinking that this is a common area for rust. Just below the liftgate handle.
Is there an easy fix?
Is there an easy fix?
Liftgate rust repair.
- Thread starter coolride
- Start date
Yes... POR-15...
The Small Kit in Either Red or Black are the ones suited to your situation. Available on Amazon, its very straightforward, but requires strict attention to the details and procedures for its preparation. It works and once the PO-15 Paint is applied and dries, is permanent:
Alternatively, there is "EVAPO-RUST" that can be passively applied to dissolve away RUST right down to Bare Metal with ease. It's Non-Toxic, has Very Low VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) and it too works chemically to convert Fe203 to a Carbon Based Residue..
The Small Kit in Either Red or Black are the ones suited to your situation. Available on Amazon, its very straightforward, but requires strict attention to the details and procedures for its preparation. It works and once the PO-15 Paint is applied and dries, is permanent:
Alternatively, there is "EVAPO-RUST" that can be passively applied to dissolve away RUST right down to Bare Metal with ease. It's Non-Toxic, has Very Low VOCs (Volatile Organic Compounds) and it too works chemically to convert Fe203 to a Carbon Based Residue..
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Well, that's a start. Pretty sure most of the rust will disappear after 3 minutes with a wire wheel.
Is this one of those projects that snowball out of control?
Is this one of those projects that snowball out of control?
It depends upon whether or not your "Wire Wheel" traces back to the place where the Start of the Water Incursion has been taking place. It's not likely to cascade into a Full Body Work and Paint Job...but since the Small Cans of POR-15 can cover an ENORMOUS amount of Metal "Real Estate" quite effectively... If you can RTFM and FTITTL...You can't go wrong. The POR-15 "Sample Pack" will be quite sufficient in this case.
Wear Eye Protection, M11 Nitrile Gloves and Clothing that You Won't Mind Throwing Away while doing this work and just after. Remember THIS... DO NOT ALLOW THIS STUFF TO DRY ON YOUR HANDS OR FACE... or You'll be looking like a Bit Player from Disney's "101 Dalmatians" via the BLACK Color Version ... or like a Cast Member for the Movie "SAW" if you choose The RED Version... FOR THE NEXT FEW MONTHS until this Paint Wears Off! Apply in VERY SMALL AMOUNTS and wait for the requisite amount of "Hardening Time" to pass in between Coats... Do NOT Just "Splash This Paint All Around" upon the Work Area!
Wear Eye Protection, M11 Nitrile Gloves and Clothing that You Won't Mind Throwing Away while doing this work and just after. Remember THIS... DO NOT ALLOW THIS STUFF TO DRY ON YOUR HANDS OR FACE... or You'll be looking like a Bit Player from Disney's "101 Dalmatians" via the BLACK Color Version ... or like a Cast Member for the Movie "SAW" if you choose The RED Version... FOR THE NEXT FEW MONTHS until this Paint Wears Off! Apply in VERY SMALL AMOUNTS and wait for the requisite amount of "Hardening Time" to pass in between Coats... Do NOT Just "Splash This Paint All Around" upon the Work Area!
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Are you intent upon Tack Welding in a Shaped Piece of comparable gauge, pre-bent or a Hammer-&-Dolly shaped piece of Mild Steel Panel? If so... after MIG Tack & Spot Welding - & Filling in that seam line and grinding it all down nice and smooth... comme ça ...
...THEN... Follow up with the POR-15 "Sample Kit" and it WILL Do You Proud. :>)
...THEN... Follow up with the POR-15 "Sample Kit" and it WILL Do You Proud. :>)
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My first guess on the location of water intrusion would be the hinges of the liftgate handle.
See in picture above how the rust grew from the two points on each side of the center reinforcement?
Here's a look at the underside of the handle. Plenty of space for water intrusion.
On the backside of the panel, directly below the hinge "pass-throughs" is a length of foam weather stripping. For sure, the foam held onto enough water to keep the rust going.
See in picture above how the rust grew from the two points on each side of the center reinforcement?
Here's a look at the underside of the handle. Plenty of space for water intrusion.
On the backside of the panel, directly below the hinge "pass-throughs" is a length of foam weather stripping. For sure, the foam held onto enough water to keep the rust going.
If it were me...I would Pull Out the Inner Panel...and Start Looking at it "From The Top Down... and Just Follow The Brown" to get back to the Cause & Origin...'cause it will NEVER be coming from where you THINK it is coming from.
Here's an issue.
The insert for this bow-tie has long ago disappeared. I removed the strip of black double sided tape using GooGone and a plastic scraper.
Anyone know where to find a new insert?
The insert for this bow-tie has long ago disappeared. I removed the strip of black double sided tape using GooGone and a plastic scraper.
Anyone know where to find a new insert?
Mooseman
Moderator
If you're talking about the inner part of the bow-tie, I don't think it was available by itself. You had to get the the whole emblem.
What I would do is just get some carbon fibre applique and fill it with that.
What I would do is just get some carbon fibre applique and fill it with that.
DIY Wrapping your Bow Ties with Carbon Fiber Film - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums - Camaro5.com
DIY Wrapping your Bow Ties with Carbon Fiber Film Camaro DIY & HOW-TO instructions & discussions
www.camaro5.com
Yes, I'm talking about the colored inner part. It might have been gold or black. Probably the same as the front.
I color matched my bow-tie to my truck, black. When I bought it the bow-ties were corroded in the middle.