lift questions

jrover27

Original poster
Member
Feb 23, 2013
11
As we all know, trailblazers have major clearance issues at at stock specs. My running boards are plowing through the sand on the beach. I have been dreaming of getting some 33's on my TB for a while now. Talked to a guy last year at a offroad shop that said I could only do 2" of lift. NOt sure 33's will fit under that.
I was hoping someone could give me an idea of how much it would cost and what would be needed to get enough room to put some 33's under there. If you have the time; a breakdown of the cost would be much appreciated. Thanks.
 

Opeth

Member
Mar 25, 2012
177
Anything off road related is often better asked over there. Some of the guys like myself are on both sites but all the stickies and info to what your looking for is all there. :smile:
 

jrover27

Original poster
Member
Feb 23, 2013
11
Opeth said:
Anything off road related is often better asked over there. Some of the guys like myself are on both sites but all the stickies and info to what your looking for is all there. :smile:

Well, looking at those TBs and the money the put into them is definitely a little more than I expected, especially after tires. I would have to look for a new place to live if I dropped that dough.
Maybe I should ask this on the other site but what do you think the cheapest way to gain a few inches of clearance would be? Could I just drop some 31's on there and maybe cut out some fender or wheel well now and be done with it?
 

Opeth

Member
Mar 25, 2012
177
Wheel spacers would be needed to clear the ball joint on factory wheels, or aftermarket wheels with say a 25mm offset. Then yes, you'll probably have to cut some fender Liner where it rubs.

There really is no "cheap" way. Ive got roughly $2k in wheels and tires and then another $800-1000 in lift parts ( lifts, shocks, struts, springs, etc)

Check out classified on either site or the unspoken about site.
 

jrover27

Original poster
Member
Feb 23, 2013
11
Opeth said:
Wheel spacers would be needed to clear the ball joint on factory wheels, or aftermarket wheels with say a 25mm offset. Then yes, you'll probably have to cut some fender Liner where it rubs.

There really is no "cheap" way. Ive got roughly $2k in wheels and tires and then another $800-1000 in lift parts ( lifts, shocks, struts, springs, etc)

Check out classified on either site or the unspoken about site.

that sounds a little more up my alley. thanks for the info and your time bro. getting a quote on monday; ill letcha know the damage if your interested. by the way, NICE TB!
 

navigator

Member
Dec 3, 2011
504
jrover27 said:
.... My running boards are plowing through the sand on the beach......

I had the same problem, not the running boards but on the beach bouncing over ruts and the frame bottoming out.
I went with a 2" Rough Country lift and even with only 30 inch tires (255/70/16) it made a big difference.
I'm getting ready to get a set of 32's which I think will make a good bit of difference as well.

There are a lot of resources on offroadtb, make sure to search and use the resources available before asking noob questions over there.
Everything you need to get where you want you can find by searching.
When you think you have a list of things to accomplish your mission then post a thread with your ideas and let folks chime in. That is the model chosen there to keep "noise" down and keep from having 1000 threads with the same questions which renders search useless.

Oh and don't mention the running boards or somebody might go all pirate4X4 on you :smile: j/k.
 

Shdwdrgn

Member
Dec 4, 2011
568
You can go up to about 30.6" without the need for a lift or wheel spacers. I'm running 265/70-16 on my truck, which is otherwise stock on the suspension. Of course that only gains you an inch over stock. If you add wheel spacers, I seem to recall you can go up to about 31.5" before you start needing to add lift, and somewhere around 32" is where you have to start making cuts into the wheel-well plastic.
 

jrover27

Original poster
Member
Feb 23, 2013
11
Shdwdrgn said:
You can go up to about 30.6" without the need for a lift or wheel spacers. I'm running 265/70-16 on my truck, which is otherwise stock on the suspension. Of course that only gains you an inch over stock. If you add wheel spacers, I seem to recall you can go up to about 31.5" before you start needing to add lift, and somewhere around 32" is where you have to start making cuts into the wheel-well plastic.

well thats the best news i have heard so far. i think i may be able to get this done sooner than i think; hopefully before spring gobbler. getting a call on monday for price. ill post it
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR

jrover27

Original poster
Member
Feb 23, 2013
11
" I would recommend using ReadyLift's 69-3065 SST kit. The 69-3065 SST Mild Lift Kit is a complete front-rear suspension system featuring the popular ReadyLift strong steel front strut extensions that provide 2.0" of front lift. The extensions bolt directly onto the top of your existing factory struts and requires NO cutting or modifications to the factory suspension components.
The rear 1.0" lift is achieved with a new rear spring lift design in the form of a strong CNC-machined 6061-T6 billet aluminum rear coil spring spacer. Together this tandem of lifting components provides the proper lift without compromising the ride quality or the factory geometry. Each kit comes complete with hardware and intuitive instructions detailing the steps required for installation.

The 69-3065 lift kit allows for installation of up to 32" (32x10.5) tires on factory wheels with a 1.5" wheel spacer.
This kit should easily install with no modification to your wheel well needed.

We offer this kit at $289.99 and a labor charge of $275.00. Please feel free to contact any one of our four locations as we may be able to answer any questions you may have."

and

"Ready lift has a nice 2" front and 1" rear kit for 309.00 install and front end alinment 4.5 hours = 427.00. Let un know if we can help will allow 32" tires"
obviously these prices dot include tires..... looking at some 32" at's tomorrow...
 

Short Bus

Member
Dec 2, 2011
1,906
jrover27 said:
" I would recommend using ReadyLift's 69-3065 SST kit. The 69-3065 SST Mild Lift Kit is a complete front-rear suspension system featuring the popular ReadyLift strong steel front strut extensions that provide 2.0" of front lift. The extensions bolt directly onto the top of your existing factory struts and requires NO cutting or modifications to the factory suspension components.
The rear 1.0" lift is achieved with a new rear spring lift design in the form of a strong CNC-machined 6061-T6 billet aluminum rear coil spring spacer. Together this tandem of lifting components provides the proper lift without compromising the ride quality or the factory geometry. Each kit comes complete with hardware and intuitive instructions detailing the steps required for installation.

The 69-3065 lift kit allows for installation of up to 32" (32x10.5) tires on factory wheels with a 1.5" wheel spacer.
This kit should easily install with no modification to your wheel well needed.

We offer this kit at $289.99 and a labor charge of $275.00. Please feel free to contact any one of our four locations as we may be able to answer any questions you may have."

and

"Ready lift has a nice 2" front and 1" rear kit for 309.00 install and front end alinment 4.5 hours = 427.00. Let un know if we can help will allow 32" tires"
obviously these prices dot include tires..... looking at some 32" at's tomorrow...

THE LIFT MEISTER 2.5" kit only is $165 and good quality.
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
The Ready-lift kit is entirely outside the strut. Easy to install, but carries a severe risk of CV binding and damage, especially on aftermarket (Cardone) CV shafts. I can only recommend that design for 2WD trucks. Many Ebay vendors sell this sort of kit as well. Cheap, and only attractive to folks who don't know the difference.

Recommend BDS (if you 're getting one of their distributors to install it) or LiftMeister (if you or a shop of your choosing is doing the install).
 

Conner299

Member
Jan 16, 2013
279
I want to know how they can say you can put 32" tires on, when a lift doesn't change the tire to steering knuckle relationship, at all. Everything I've read, states 32" needs spacers.
 

Shdwdrgn

Member
Dec 4, 2011
568
Conner299 said:
I want to know how they can say you can put 32" tires on, when a lift doesn't change the tire to steering knuckle relationship, at all. Everything I've read, states 32" needs spacers.

It does. When I put my tires on (30.6") I had less than 1/4" of clearance to the ball joint. Who said you could do a 32" tire without a spacer?
 

Conner299

Member
Jan 16, 2013
279
Shdwdrgn said:
It does. When I put my tires on (30.6") I had less than 1/4" of clearance to the ball joint. Who said you could do a 32" tire without a spacer?

Refer to post 13, paragraph 3.
EDIT: My bad, just saw the wheel spacer part, while re-reading it.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
I feel bad for anyone that would pay those prices for that lift installed.
 

jrover27

Original poster
Member
Feb 23, 2013
11
HARDTRAILZ said:
I feel bad for anyone that would pay those prices for that lift installed.


well you can feel bad for me. i have about 6 hours to myself per week. and im trying to get this done before spring hunting season and a memorial day beach trip. im a total effing noob as far as suspension and lift go. we raised my buddies f150 5" back in highschool but that was many moons ago.

and since you raised the issue--> what would your plan of action be????
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
The GMT360 community, here and on offroadtb.com, and formerly at trailvoy.com, is a huge resource for joint lift install parties. I've assisted at least 8 local members do theirs in my driveway, and the Indiana crowd is famous for lift and bumper welding parties. Alcohol and BBQ is often involved. But you have to have the time to assist and learn and hopefully pass it on to others. So if you have that little amount of free time, it's totally understandable to want to outsource it. Just understand what the shop does so you have a prayer of being able to repair things that might break on the trail when you're alone with your tools and stuck truck.
 

Conner299

Member
Jan 16, 2013
279
Six consecutive hours would be plenty of time to do front and rear. The brother-in-law, and I, did mine in approx 4 and a half. Front and Rear, with basic hand tools, and a spring compressor. If the parts you're working on have been on the truck longer than a couple of months, a good wire-brushing and PB-Blasting are highly recomended, prior to wrenching on anything. I would recomend two or three days of wire-brushing and PB Blaster, once a day, at least. IMHO.
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
jrover27 said:
well you can feel bad for me. i have about 6 hours to myself per week. and im trying to get this done before spring hunting season and a memorial day beach trip. im a total effing noob as far as suspension and lift go. we raised my buddies f150 5" back in highschool but that was many moons ago.

and since you raised the issue--> what would your plan of action be????

Not downing on you at all. I am not fond of that style lift and the labor for basic work of unbolting a couple things and tossing in the spacer is HIGH.

My plan would be to reach out to other VA members that might be able to lend a hand or do a little reading and figure out how to do it myself. Our lifts are not complicated. If you read the directions, you may be more likely to just save some cash and do it in your 6 hours. It is great to say I did this and then have the knowledge for the future, whether it be to work on another vehicle or fix your truck when 10 miles from pavement without cell service.

If I were in your shoes, I would buy Marks 2.5 in lift. Fairly simple install. Works great. Increases ground clearance. Lots of value at a very reasonable cost. Great vendor that will answer your call and help with whatever you need. Then I would install it myself, preferably with an extra set of eyes/hands, maybe a member of the site, or family member, or just a buddy that is not afraid of a little dirt and work. Its amazing what the offer of a few brews and some grilled food will get you. Around here we drive 100's of miles to help each other for a day or weekend.

I have helped with a ton of trucks/jeeps/cars. With the 360/370 stuff, I get emails and calls multiple times a week for advice or help on lifts/suspension. Its a rather small group of enthusiasts here. If you need help, call me. I do not know it all, but with well over a dozen 360/370 installs and several variations on my own truck, I usually got a good idea if you get stuck.

Read some of the install threads, ask any questions, and hopefully you can get it done yourself cheaper and easier than dealing with an obviously clueless shop that did not even offer the best option for our trucks.


Do not forget you will need an alignment after the lift.
 

jrover27

Original poster
Member
Feb 23, 2013
11
Well said. I am deferring to everyones expertise in this matter, as mine is close to null. That being said, there is nothing I would like more than to do this myself. You raise a great point about about breaking down on the trail/beach or whatever and not knowing what I am looking at. Im a pretty stubborn SOB, so usually I dont change my mind on things. In this matter, I will take your advice and slow my role a little bit- try to learn a little bit and hold off on this project until Im ready.
I appreciate your time.
 

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