LED Switchbacks

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Ok, I installed the LED Switchback Bulbs, the LED 194 Side Marker Bulbs and the LED Module. Took all of about 30-40 mins...and here is the results...
1460590307445.jpg
1460589249685.jpg
1460590307657.jpg
And i will post this link if you would like to see a video of them in operation



I want to thank everyone for all the help and information I received on this thread. :2thumbsup:
 

richphotos

Member
Feb 26, 2016
298
St. Louis Park, MN
Looks incredible!

I ordered the module and the bulbs today. This is one of the things I really wanted to do.
I built switchback lights for my 93 Jimmy when I had it, loved the look of it.

Great job!
 
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richphotos

Member
Feb 26, 2016
298
St. Louis Park, MN
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017C6B5IU/?tag=gmtnation-20

I got these and there pretty awsome. There is a 2 second delay when they come on and about a 1 second delay when they switch back to white.

You can also look them up through eBay aswell they have them.
I ordered these and just got them in the mail. I bench tested them tonight since I have not got the flasher in the mail yet, and these things are insanely bright!

Well worth the money. I am curious on how long they last.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
I ordered these and just got them in the mail. I bench tested them tonight since I have not got the flasher in the mail yet, and these things are insanely bright!



Well worth the money. I am curious on how long they last.

Nice, i also purchased the JDM-ASTAR Bulbs.

Ya, both the Amber and the White/Clear Colors of the Bulbs are very bright. Expecially when compared to the factory bulb setup.

I'm hoping they last a while myself. I have always turned off the DRL system during daylight hours on all my Vehicle's and manually turn on the Parking & Fog Lights. But with these Switchbacks, I will be turning all Lights off in till dusk to make them last longer. Which is kind of a bummer cause I want other drivers to see them but don't want to be replacing $35 Bulbs every 6 months either.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
*MODERATOR*...Could you please copy and paste the three (3) pictures I have posted above to "My Builds" section/thread?
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
*MODERATOR*...Could you please copy and paste the three (3) pictures I have posted above to "My Builds" section/thread?
Just quote your own post and copy and paste yourself if you want them in your build.

Thanks
 

HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Not sure how I could have been nicer. I just told you the simplest way to do it. Better to teach a man to fish than to just give him a fish one time or whatever the proverb.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
I must have taken it the wrong way...

It's my fault for...

1. Assuming only a Moderator could transfer the pics- the first time I ever posted pictures one of the Moderators (can't remember who) asked if I wanted to move my Pictures from the current Thread to the Members Builds Thread. So I assumed that wasn't something I was allowed to do.

2. Jumping to conclusions base on the way the text/message sounded.

3. I'm currently trying to quit smoking cigarettes and a little high strung- i know this has nothing to do with anyone here. I apologize.

I apologize @HARDTRAILZ and thank you for guidance.
 
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HARDTRAILZ

Moderator
Nov 18, 2011
49,665
Oh...I can be an asshole. Plenty around here probably call me that, but i was trying to help without any confusion or extra BS.

1. Prolly either did not apply to thread you posted in or were trying to help. hard telling, but you can do it yourself.

2. Typing tone is a bitch, but I try to use purple for sacasm. It helps a bit.

3. Good for you. Best of Luck and most if us are pretty thick skinned and willing to put up with some crap from our forum friends when people need to pop off a bit.

Hopefully all is good and if you ever need help. Feel free to ask me. If I don't know I will make something up.
 

djthumper

Administrator
Nov 20, 2011
14,955
North Las Vegas
I must have taken it the wrong way...

It's my fault for...

1. Assuming only a Moderator could transfer the pics- the first time I ever posted pictures one of the Moderators (can't remember who) asked if I wanted to move my Pictures from the current Thread to the Members Builds Thread. So I assumed that wasn't something I was allowed to do.

2. Jumping to conclusions base on the way the text/message sounded.

3. I'm currently trying to quit smoking cigarettes and a little high strung- i know this has nothing to do with anyone here. I apologize.

I apologize @HARDTRAILZ and thank you for guidance.
Your entire thread was moved over to the build threads and renamed is all that happened there. We are note generally in the habit of moving pictures around or copying them around to cross post them.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Oh...I can be an asshole. Plenty around here probably call me that, but i was trying to help without any confusion or extra BS.

1. Prolly either did not apply to thread you posted in or were trying to help. hard telling, but you can do it yourself.

2. Typing tone is a bitch, but I try to use purple for sacasm. It helps a bit.

3. Good for you. Best of Luck and most if us are pretty thick skinned and willing to put up with some crap from our forum friends when people need to pop off a bit.

Hopefully all is good and if you ever need help. Feel free to ask me. If I don't know I will make something up.

Your entire thread was moved over to the build threads and renamed is all that happened there. We are note generally in the habit of moving pictures around or copying them around to cross post them.

Ok, now I know. :thumbsup:

Again I apologize (expecially to @HARDTRAILZ) and thank everyone for there time with all the help I receive on this site.
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
I hate to bring this up again but want to make sure I order the correct Bulbs...finally getting around to ordering the rear LED'S.

So I have done a lot of searching for LED'S for the rear of the TB. I know I will need 2 3157SRCK/CK Bulbs and the rest standard 3157 and I have already installed the LM486 Module so should be good there.

I have been looking for 3157 LED White/Red 5630 Bulbs but they seem to come in a array of different options. Some are 15W Bulbs with around 400-500 Lumens and some are 30W with around 1200-1400 Lumens. And found some as high as 50W with around 1900-2000 Lumens.

I worried about getting too high powered/voltage Bulbs for the Sockets and blowing or messing something up...so my questions are...

1. What's the safest highest Watt LED Bulbs that I can purchase for the rear stock Sockets?...or the safest highest LED Lumens?

2. Is all Philips LED Bulbs compatible with standard & SRCK/CK Sockets?

3. Can anyone recommend a specific Bulb brand that are good when it comes to Light Output and Longevity?

4. Have noticed there is not a whole lot of SRCK/CK LED Bulbs available...can I get around this by looking for Bulbs with Non-Polority Bases?

Thanks in advance.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,691
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Some are 15W Bulbs with around 400-500 Lumens and some are 30W with around 1200-1400 Lumens. And found some as high as 50W with around 1900-2000 Lumens.

I worried about getting too high powered/voltage Bulbs for the Sockets and blowing or messing something up

1. What's the safest highest Watt LED Bulbs that I can purchase for the rear stock Sockets?...or the safest highest LED Lumens?

The wattage doesn't refer to how much the bulb is actually pulling. LEDs by nature require MUCH less current than filament bulbs to do the same work, unless you're working with high powered LEDs. (the kind that need large heat sinks) That is an advertising mechanism for you to equate a brightness reference to. Think about it, HIDs are offered in 35W and 55W options, LED headlights setups that are of comparable brightness come with drivers and large heat sinks on the back. A pnp bulb isn't going to be nearly as bright or use the same amount of power.

Also, you don't want to be married to the idea of the brightest bulb possible. These bulbs are for line of sight for driver's behind you, not lighting up the road. I don't think it's ever happened, but say you've got some insanely bright brake bulbs and you catch a cop behind you one evening who had a bad day. Maybe he gives you a ticket because his retinas have been fried and he still sees spots after you let off the brake pedal. :popo: :crazy:

An extreme scenario, but you want to take other drivers into consideration. :yes:

2. Is all Philips LED Bulbs compatible with standard & SRCK/CK Sockets?

I'd never make a sweeping generalization. LED bulb technology is constantly changing. If it's not advertised as being dual socket compatible, either ask the retailer selling it, or find one that does. Last thing you wanna do is assume you're buying something, and blow fuses when you install them because you weren't 100% sure. :frown:

3. Can anyone recommend a specific Bulb brand that are good when it comes to Light Output and Longevity?

This is purely subjective since it depends on how much night driving, and/or city traffic someone might drive in, but I'm sure some will be able to recommend what they are currently using.

4. Have noticed there is not a whole lot of SRCK/CK LED Bulbs available...can I get around this by looking for Bulbs with Non-Polority Bases?

Polarity of the bulb is not the issue. The socket is physically wired different with pin placement. See below.

3157-Conventional-Socket_zpsbfffeebb.jpg



3157-SRCK-Socket_zpsc9796495.jpg
 

RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
The wattage doesn't refer to how much the bulb is actually pulling. LEDs by nature require MUCH less current than filament bulbs to do the same work, unless you're working with high powered LEDs. (the kind that need large heat sinks) That is an advertising mechanism for you to equate a brightness reference to. Think about it, HIDs are offered in 35W and 55W options, LED headlights setups that are of comparable brightness come with drivers and large heat sinks on the back. A pnp bulb isn't going to be nearly as bright or use the same amount of power.

Also, you don't want to be married to the idea of the brightest bulb possible. These bulbs are for line of sight for driver's behind you, not lighting up the road. I don't think it's ever happened, but say you've got some insanely bright brake bulbs and you catch a cop behind you one evening who had a bad day. Maybe he gives you a ticket because his retinas have been fried and he still sees spots after you let off the brake pedal. :popo: :crazy:

An extreme scenario, but you want to take other drivers into consideration. :yes:



I'd never make a sweeping generalization. LED bulb technology is constantly changing. If it's not advertised as being dual socket compatible, either ask the retailer selling it, or find one that does. Last thing you wanna do is assume you're buying something, and blow fuses when you install them because you weren't 100% sure. :frown:



This is purely subjective since it depends on how much night driving, and/or city traffic someone might drive in, but I'm sure some will be able to recommend what they are currently using.



Polarity of the bulb is not the issue. The socket is physically wired different with pin placement. See below.

3157-Conventional-Socket_zpsbfffeebb.jpg



3157-SRCK-Socket_zpsc9796495.jpg

Ok, thank you for the info.

I totally understand about not wanting to blind people. I guess I should have worded that differently.

I'm just looking for LED Bulbs that won't blow a Fuse or burn harnesses/sockets and has decent light output over the factory incandescent bulbs.

But looks like I will just need to purchase some and go from there.

Thanks
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,691
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I'm just looking for LED Bulbs that won't blow a Fuse or burn harnesses/sockets and has decent light output over the factory incandescent bulbs.

LEDs by nature require MUCH less current than filament bulbs to do the same work, unless you're working with high powered LEDs. (the kind that need large heat sinks)

Think back to the whole reason load resistors or the LM486/LM487 are needed. Drop in LED bulbs don't pull as much power, so the stock modules think a bulb is burnt out, so you get hyperflash and/or loss of cruise control depending on your setup. Therefore, blowing fuses or melting wiring or harnesses is not possible due to the bulb.

If you ran into either of those problems, it would be due to damaged wiring, corrosion in the sockets, or possibly a defective bulb. Obviously you wouldn't know about the bad bulb until you installed it, but a good bulb wouldn't cause that. Of course installing SCRK in a conventional socket and vice versa would also blow fuses, but you knew that already.
 
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RTTBLT1

Original poster
Member
Jan 25, 2016
512
Louisburg, KS
Think back to the whole reason load resistors or the LM486/LM487 are needed. Drop in LED bulbs don't pull as much power, so the stock modules think a bulb is burnt out, so you get hyperflash and/or loss of cruise control depending on your setup. Therefore, blowing fuses or melting wiring or harnesses is not possible due to the bulb.

If you ran into either of those problems, it would be due to damaged wiring, corrosion in the sockets, or possibly a defective bulb. Obviously you wouldn't know about the bad bulb until you installed it, but a good bulb wouldn't cause that. Of course installing SCRK in a conventional socket and vice versa would also blow fuses, but you knew that already.

Oh ok :bonk:.

Since I'm not looking to blind any driver's, I'm thinking about starting low on the Lumens and going from there since I have no idea what I'm needing/wanting other than wanting brighter than stock Bulbs.

I'm looking to these for the Brake/Turn Signal Bulbs since they are lower Lumens and the seller says they work on Standard and SRCK/CK Sockets...
http://m.ebay.com/itm/2x-3157-SRCK-...ojector-Len-/271587191345?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

And looking into these for Backup/Reverse Bulbs...
http://m.ebay.com/itm/2x-3157-SRCK-...ojector-Len-/281422352692?nav=WATCHING_ACTIVE

If I can go higher with the Brake/Turn Signal Bulbs, say around 1000 Lumens without blinding others that would be great also.
 

richphotos

Member
Feb 26, 2016
298
St. Louis Park, MN
It would be VERY hard to find a plug and play bulbs in the rear that will output 1000 lumens.
I am sitting at around 1200 for both my rear lights combined (around 600 each) and that is with 120 LEDs per side (240 total)
 
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