Thanks great detail better than vid. Will check voltage tom.Done for today just a little info dont know where to put this at but tried to change out a rear window and 3rd tail light cover off a reg.tb to a ext and found out that they are very diff but changed all wiper arms old ones were rusted bad,new ones fit and look good.THANKS
Keys stuck in the ignition
- Thread starter ChevyTBLover
- Start date
Had the same problem on my 03 Trailblazer a year ago. All I did was drill a hole in the steering column to access the release button.
They're cheap at any parts store, and they can look up the number. More than one aftermarket alternative, many of them listed at Rockauto.
I changed out my ignition switch a few months back. Recently, I've had to "kickstart" the tb a couple times by smashing the crap out of the brake pedal to get the dash to flash back on, and finally get the engine to turn over. I just replaced the mode actuator today, put everything back in its place, and went to turn the truck on.... nothing. Key locked in, wouldn't turn over, no lights on in the truck. WTH is going on?!! Could it possibly be just a crappy replacement ignition switch?! The original one from 2004 lasted until late 2012. This one "lasting" (lack of better term) up until now. Does that sound right to anybody? Could it be something else? 
I know it's not the battery connection because it starts up like a champ... well, when it wants to, I should say.
I know it's not the battery connection because it starts up like a champ... well, when it wants to, I should say.
airwolf9721
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 17
ChevyTBLover said:
next time try disconnecting the battery completely for a few seconds and reconnecting...It has happened on my 05 LS a couple of times but i couldn't restart until battery disconnection.
Turns out it was a crap switch. Bought yet another one off the shelf at AutoZone across the st and it started right up. Beyond frustrating that we piss away $$ that quickly on these things.
As far as the battery situation goes, went and did a Load Test at Advance Auto Parts last week. With a 700 CCA, the test came back with a whopping 45. No, that's not a typo. 45. Took that thing out back Old Yeller style.
The truck has settled down since these two changes. However, I have started hearing a humming noise (higher pitch w/ higher speeds) from my front right wheel... That problem I'm afraid is for a completely different thread.
Thanks for all the input!
As far as the battery situation goes, went and did a Load Test at Advance Auto Parts last week. With a 700 CCA, the test came back with a whopping 45. No, that's not a typo. 45. Took that thing out back Old Yeller style.
The truck has settled down since these two changes. However, I have started hearing a humming noise (higher pitch w/ higher speeds) from my front right wheel... That problem I'm afraid is for a completely different thread.
Thanks for all the input!
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
We've just had another case of this issue, this time being a failure of the ground itself. Yet another G201 issue, the thing had come completely loose and took a bunch of the other dash and front area stuff with it, including the ability to get the truck to shift out of park. Just another thing to watch for!
warriorpluto
Member
- Apr 12, 2012
- 215
I remember a couple of years ago someone on here told me.to get an ignition switch just in case the original goes out., but they stressed the fact that it had to be an acdelco switch. I still have it in my glove box.
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
It is still a pretty smart idea. It may be a "just-in-case," but it's a pretty important one! As an additional note if you ever get rid of the truck you can make at least part of your investment back, there's likely someone at any given moment having a switch issue.warriorpluto said:
IllogicTC
Member
- Dec 30, 2013
- 3,452
Alright, posting on behalf of someone else:
2006 Envoy XL
The vehicle has generally sat for a while, being started to make sure the battery doesn't go dead. Recently, the battery had gone dead, it was charged and started and shut off fine. Today, it was reported to the owner that it wasn't starting again. Again, hooked it to the charger, and started it up to bring the battery back up. This time though, the key is stuck in the ignition in the run position. Note again that this vehicle is a "backup" one and therefore hasn't been used as a DD for a while, so some of the expectations such as parts wearing out seem to have less to do with this, potentially.
-Battery obviously good now
-Shifting to reverse, there is a noticeable little dip in power. Also, turning the wheel left and right, there is also a noticeable dip in power. The charging system warning does not illuminate, possibly re-check for good battery connection?
-Crawled under and examined the harness going into the P/N switch, the one with the white plastic on the connector itself and with some odd little blue tether. The thing seems loose. Like not loose as in disengaging the pins, but has a noticeable little wiggle, it seems odd but so does the connector so I was not sure this is normal. All gear selections properly report on the dash.
-This is the ORIGINAL lock cylinder.
-Also, the battery had been disconnected in an attempt to get the vehicle to stop before I arrived. It did not stop the vehicle. My solution for stopping it until a solution could be had was to pull Relay 41, and then disconnect the battery after the engine stopped.
-Pulled and replaced Relay 41 and then tried restarting before pulling the battery, she started up beautifully not even getting one full "crank" sound before firing up.
So, my thoughts would be the solenoid is giving up in some fashion, the cylinder is dying, or the battery perhaps needs checked for proper voltage and connection. I went on-site to the vehicle and did not have any reference materials with me and limited tools, so I didn't dig too deep, especially since it's not my vehicle. There were codes reporting low voltage on Shift Sol. A and B and the TCC, this was expected as of course the battery was dead. However, the codes were hanging again in pending, should I make sure to revisit the battery?
I am also aware of the TSB on the shift boot stopping the lever from getting in the proper position, it didn't feel to be related to that.
2006 Envoy XL
The vehicle has generally sat for a while, being started to make sure the battery doesn't go dead. Recently, the battery had gone dead, it was charged and started and shut off fine. Today, it was reported to the owner that it wasn't starting again. Again, hooked it to the charger, and started it up to bring the battery back up. This time though, the key is stuck in the ignition in the run position. Note again that this vehicle is a "backup" one and therefore hasn't been used as a DD for a while, so some of the expectations such as parts wearing out seem to have less to do with this, potentially.
-Battery obviously good now
-Shifting to reverse, there is a noticeable little dip in power. Also, turning the wheel left and right, there is also a noticeable dip in power. The charging system warning does not illuminate, possibly re-check for good battery connection?
-Crawled under and examined the harness going into the P/N switch, the one with the white plastic on the connector itself and with some odd little blue tether. The thing seems loose. Like not loose as in disengaging the pins, but has a noticeable little wiggle, it seems odd but so does the connector so I was not sure this is normal. All gear selections properly report on the dash.
-This is the ORIGINAL lock cylinder.
-Also, the battery had been disconnected in an attempt to get the vehicle to stop before I arrived. It did not stop the vehicle. My solution for stopping it until a solution could be had was to pull Relay 41, and then disconnect the battery after the engine stopped.
-Pulled and replaced Relay 41 and then tried restarting before pulling the battery, she started up beautifully not even getting one full "crank" sound before firing up.
So, my thoughts would be the solenoid is giving up in some fashion, the cylinder is dying, or the battery perhaps needs checked for proper voltage and connection. I went on-site to the vehicle and did not have any reference materials with me and limited tools, so I didn't dig too deep, especially since it's not my vehicle. There were codes reporting low voltage on Shift Sol. A and B and the TCC, this was expected as of course the battery was dead. However, the codes were hanging again in pending, should I make sure to revisit the battery?
I am also aware of the TSB on the shift boot stopping the lever from getting in the proper position, it didn't feel to be related to that.
pcharm129
Member
- Aug 15, 2012
- 191
The_Roadie said:
Hi Roadie. Do you have a part number for this "PARK position switch"? I cant seem to find it thru Google. I have to jiggle my shifter (Hahahaha!!!) to release my key when i'm in park. You can hear the solenoid in the steering column clicking away with the slightest bump or push on the shifter or center console...smh.
redline customs
Member
This is a bad idea as unhooking the battery can cause a spike in voltage and blow many of your electrical components. I know its an old thread but figured I'd post as a warning.
Graphite Powder Key Sticking fix:
For those experiencing this on/off again key sticking situation, try Graphite Powder in the key hole prior to changing out the ignition switch. As others have mentioned, DO NOT spray liquid products into the key hole.
- With key out, uncap your graphite powder tube and squirt a few shots into the keyhole.
- Take a small rubber hammer, or similar, and tap the key hole area a few times to separate and lube the internals.
- Test key for smoothness. Mine was night vs. day difference.
My key would periodically get 'stuck', but after doing this trick it's never come back.
*** You can buy a small tube of graphite powder at any auto store/Walmart for about $3. ***
For those experiencing this on/off again key sticking situation, try Graphite Powder in the key hole prior to changing out the ignition switch. As others have mentioned, DO NOT spray liquid products into the key hole.
- With key out, uncap your graphite powder tube and squirt a few shots into the keyhole.
- Take a small rubber hammer, or similar, and tap the key hole area a few times to separate and lube the internals.
- Test key for smoothness. Mine was night vs. day difference.
My key would periodically get 'stuck', but after doing this trick it's never come back.
*** You can buy a small tube of graphite powder at any auto store/Walmart for about $3. ***