It's never ending..p1345 and p0014

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
I am just tired. After cleaning the throttle body we had to change the power steering pump, no biggy. We did a few modifications like auto fogs and quad beam lights. Other than that everything has been pretty much cosmetic mods.

Well we changed our power steering pump on Friday, it was a fairly easy job. We drove it approx. 7hrs non stop to go get our new puppy. Left here at 1:30pm and got home at 7:00pm without anything acting up or out of the ordinary.

Last night my 4wd went out, My husband played with some wiring and the TCCM. Removed a fuse to check it and put it back. When he put the fuse back the truck started to idle really oddly, almost as if it were trying to stall out. Then the SES light came on, had it read at OReilly's and it came out as p1345 or the crankshaft/camshaft sensor. Figured it may have been an issue with hubby pulling the fuse so he had the guy at OReilly's clear out the SES/code and hubby double checked the fuses...drove it home.

4wd came back on the way home...and after 3hrs of driving on and off using the 4wd it has stayed on without issue. But the SES light is back on, and the odd idle is back as well. I haven't been able to pin point if there is an exact time the idle starts acting up. At one point it was as soon as we started the truck, and at another time it started doing it after about 5 minutes of driving...did it for 60sec and then ran fine. The RPM's to me seem to be moving a lot easier, like it's flighty. Doesn't want to get up and go, and seems to be having an issue shifting into 2nd, truck WONT go past 2500RPM unless I really really really hammer it and I have to rock my body for a bit more umph lol

I don't know if it makes a difference or not, but my husband put in some Engine restore...in a silver pop can type container. The idle issue didn't happen and the SES wasn't on until he put the Engine restore in..he bought it at wal-mart.

Any idea's? We can change the sensor on Tuesday...but should we look elsewhere? 4wd is fine now... :crazy:
 

barron03

Member
Nov 20, 2011
960
Drain the oil ,that stuff is crap.Probably will have to flush it also.
 

D-V_Envoy

Member
Dec 6, 2011
51
barron03 said:
Drain the oil ,that stuff is crap.Probably will have to flush it also.

Really? I've used that stuff in other vehicles in the past with no issues. Especially ones with more than 100K on them.
(Of note they have been mid to early '90 vehicles) I have not in the Voy and really haven't planned on it at this point.

Just curious as to why you say it's crap. Not that it wouldn't surprise me.
But how would that affect her idle? Possibly clogging the sensor? How would it effect her vehicle not shifting?

Again just tossing some things out there so there is more explanation for all readers who see this post and have questions surrounding the product or the reasons behind why Voymom is having some issues right now.

thanks
 

STLtrailbSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
1,617
Do you know if it was a fuel treatment? Like gumout or an engine cleaner like Zmax or seafoam?
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
I have also used it in other vehicles with over 100k miles with no ill effect, in fact it helped a lot. I will go dig in the trash and see what exactly it was he put in it. I will take a pic and post it here.


IMG_20120305_195241.jpg
 

barron03

Member
Nov 20, 2011
960
D-V_Envoy said:
Really? I've used that stuff in other vehicles in the past with no issues. Especially ones with more than 100K on them.
(Of note they have been mid to early '90 vehicles) I have not in the Voy and really haven't planned on it at this point.

Just curious as to why you say it's crap. Not that it wouldn't surprise me.
But how would that affect her idle? Possibly clogging the sensor? How would it effect her vehicle not shifting?

Again just tossing some things out there so there is more explanation for all readers who see this post and have questions surrounding the product or the reasons behind why Voymom is having some issues right now.

thanks

I tried it a couple times on older cars/trucks when I did any work on the motors there was always globs of the stuff stuck everywhere.I remember reading on the OS someone had the same problem after using it.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
barron03 said:
I tried it a couple times on older cars/trucks when I did any work on the motors there was always globs of the stuff stuck everywhere.I remember reading on the OS someone had the same problem after using it.

Will it clog it up that quick though? He put it in this afternoon and about an hour later is when the truck started acting up. And it wasn't very cold out today, we had mid 40's here. So oil change/flush and a new sensor??

I have been smoke free since Dec 17th, had a few puffs off a cigg when Jeff was here, but I actually broke down and bought a pack lol this is so frustrating.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,472
Ottawa, ON
Like most snake oil remedies, they can never give independent blind research on results of any real improvement. Restore's claim is that it will fill in microscopic scratches and increase compression. If it does, it probably does so by increasing the viscosity or thickness of the oil. If it does have any kind of metal filling capabilities, it can seriously gum up the works of the VVT system in our trucks. The fact that it went loco right after Restore was added pretty much proves it. I read an exact same thread on the OS with a clogged CPAS caused by Restore.
 

D-V_Envoy

Member
Dec 6, 2011
51
barron03 said:
I tried it a couple times on older cars/trucks when I did any work on the motors there was always globs of the stuff stuck everywhere.I remember reading on the OS someone had the same problem after using it.


Well then glad I'm never took any of my motors apart.

Voymom said:
I have been smoke free since Dec 17th, had a few puffs off a cigg when Jeff was here, but I actually broke down and bought a pack lol this is so frustrating.


TOSS THEM NOW! :hissyfit: LOL
 

barron03

Member
Nov 20, 2011
960
Voymom said:
Will it clog it up that quick though? He put it in this afternoon and about an hour later is when the truck started acting up. And it wasn't very cold out today, we had mid 40's here. So oil change/flush and a new sensor??

I have been smoke free since Dec 17th, had a few puffs off a cigg when Jeff was here, but I actually broke down and bought a pack lol this is so frustrating.

Try draining and refilling and cleaning the sensor.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Okay so hubby will be picking up some oil after work lol we use mobile 1 full syn. Any recommendations on oil filter? I usually use K&N. How do I do a flush??? And should I replace the sensor anyways, or just try the oil change first??
 

MichEnvoyGuy

Member
Dec 3, 2011
522
IF you do install a new Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid (referred to CPAS around the forums), GET AN OEM DELCO ONE!!!!

I installed a Dorman that I bought at O'Reilly, I dont know why b/c I read to only use Delco but thought "that wont happen to me!" well it did. I spent 2 weeks in an out of the dealership, bugging my friend with a TECH II, throwing parts at it. I finally replaced the Dorman CPAS with a Delco one as a last ditch effort & replaced the wiring pigtail (cheap insurance to do that too b/c it gets saturated with oil) and that fixed it. My truck has never driven better with the Delco CPAS! I bet your problem is the addition of the RESTORE to the oil, but please put the little tidbit I just told you in your back pocket for the future...

And Ive used Restore before on older vehicles that were worn out. But I wouldnt use it in our I6 engine, the VVT system is far too sensitive for that stuff or anything that increases the viscosity of the motor oil. :yes: Like somebody else said, you are going to have to get that out and possibly do an engine flush in addition.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
MichEnvoyGuy said:
IF you do install a new Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid (referred to CPAS around the forums), GET AN OEM DELCO ONE!!!!

I installed a Dorman that I bought at O'Reilly, I dont know why b/c I read to only use Delco but thought "that wont happen to me!" well it did. I spent 2 weeks in an out of the dealership, bugging my friend with a TECH II, throwing parts at it. I finally replaced the Dorman CPAS with a Delco one as a last ditch effort & replaced the wiring pigtail (cheap insurance to do that too b/c it gets saturated with oil) and that fixed it. My truck has never driven better with the Delco CPAS! I bet your problem is the addition of the RESTORE to the oil, but please put the little tidbit I just told you in your back pocket for the future...

And Ive used Restore before on older vehicles that were worn out. But I wouldnt use it in our I6 engine, the VVT system is far too sensitive for that stuff or anything that increases the viscosity of the motor oil. :yes: Like somebody else said, you are going to have to get that out and possibly do an engine flush in addition.

LOL I know your story very well. In fact I have read it about 3 times and 3 more times after today's issue :tongue: I plan on very much using OEM, never thought about using anything different. And at the rate this truck is going I wont be using ANY part that isn't OEM. To much of a pain in the arse for me. I'm not sure how to do a flush....should I just take it to have someone do it for me since I dont want to screw anything else up?
 

STLtrailbSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
1,617
Voymom said:
Okay so hubby will be picking up some oil after work lol we use mobile 1 full syn. Any recommendations on oil filter? I usually use K&N. How do I do a flush??? And should I replace the sensor anyways, or just try the oil change first??

A flush is going to be rough I think you should just go with a drain and refill for starters
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
STLtrailbSS said:
A flush is going to be rough I think you should just go with a drain and refill for starters

Okay so a normal oil change...will jump on that first thing tomorrow! I guess if a flush is needed I can take it to the local mom and pop oil change shop..they will be cheaper than the stealership. Will a K&N oil filter be okay? I heard fram was crappy lol and wait on the sensor?? Or change it?
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
I put a can of Restore in my last car. Smoked the engine the next day. Good news is the TB is its replacement
 

STLtrailbSS

Member
Dec 4, 2011
1,617
Voymom said:
Okay so a normal oil change...will jump on that first thing tomorrow! I guess if a flush is needed I can take it to the local mom and pop oil change shop..they will be cheaper than the stealership. Will a K&N oil filter be okay? I heard fram was crappy lol and wait on the sensor?? Or change it?
K&Ns are great they have metal endcaps and a high number of filter fins so good to go on that. CPAS sensor from what I see on this thread they are saying go for it i have never had to mesS with any of those **knock on wood** Can also clear the code and see if it resurfaces.
 

barron03

Member
Nov 20, 2011
960
I use the Mobil 1 oil filter and I would try the oil change first.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Awesome! So that ismy plan then. Oil change and reset code....hopefully it works :crazy: I wont let hubby put anything in the truck anymore lol
 

MacMan

Member
Mar 3, 2012
194
Voymom said:
Okay so hubby will be picking up some oil after work lol we use mobile 1 full syn. Any recommendations on oil filter? I usually use K&N. How do I do a flush??? And should I replace the sensor anyways, or just try the oil change first??

First of all, as others have said above, do NOT put Restore in your Voy ever again. It absolutely will screw up the VVT (it clogs the screens in the cam solenoid), and that was what caused the poor engine performance.

As for the oil filter, the best ones are the K & N, Wix, NAPA Gold(Wix), Mobil 1, and Purolator Pure One. I recommend flushing the engine with inexpensive regular mineral oil, then refill with the Mobil 1.
 

MichEnvoyGuy

Member
Dec 3, 2011
522
MacMan said:
First of all, as others have said above, do NOT put Restore in your Voy ever again. It absolutely will screw up the VVT (it clogs the screens in the cam solenoid), and that was what caused the poor engine performance.

As for the oil filter, the best ones are the K & N, Wix, NAPA Gold(Wix), Mobil 1, and Purolator Pure One. I recommend flushing the engine with inexpensive regular mineral oil, then refill with the Mobil 1.

+1

Also, Purolator Pureone is really the best bang for the buck. The Mobil1 and K&N are expensive but the PureOne has been dissected several times on the web and is a proven excellent built and efficient filter! :thumbsup:
 

NighTblazer

Member
Jan 23, 2012
71
It may seem to be a waste but I suggest two oil changes: the first to help clean out the restore that didn't drain out with the current oil. Run the engine for awhile to warm it up and rev the engine a few times. This should help mix it with the oil for when you drain it and help move the restore to the filter. Then I would do the second oil change with another new filter.
This should get most of the remaining restore out of the engine and help dilute what is left. Just my :twocents: good luck!
 

Mark20

Member
Dec 6, 2011
1,630
When you say mineral oil, do you mean the clear stuff from the drug store? I have no idea of its ability to survive in and lubricate an engine.

Amsoil has their high detergent Flush which should really clean the Restore out. You can also try Pennsoil Yellow Bottle (PYB). They've gone to a very high detergent formulation which is getting good reviews over at Bob Is The Oil Guy(.com).
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,029
Mark20 said:
When you say mineral oil, do you mean the clear stuff from the drug store? I have no idea of its ability to survive in and lubricate an engine.

Amsoil has their high detergent Flush which should really clean the Restore out. You can also try Pennsoil Yellow Bottle (PYB). They've gone to a very high detergent formulation which is getting good reviews over at Bob Is The Oil Guy(.com).

No mate, he means dino oil, like any regular motor oil, not synthetic.
 

neelskit

Member
Dec 7, 2011
69
MacMan said:
First of all, as others have said above, do NOT put Restore in your Voy ever again. It absolutely will screw up the VVT (it clogs the screens in the cam solenoid), and that was what caused the poor engine performance.

As for the oil filter, the best ones are the K & N, Wix, NAPA Gold(Wix), Mobil 1, and Purolator Pure One. I recommend flushing the engine with inexpensive regular mineral oil, then refill with the Mobil 1.

:iagree:

If you don't replace the CPAS, you WILL at the very least need to pull it from the engine and clean the "gunk" out of the screens. Throttle Body Cleaner will do the trick.
 

navigator

Member
Dec 3, 2011
504
the camshaft position sensor will also cause a rough idle and throw a code as well.
I've had one go bad, get one from the dealer and a week later the new one went bad as well.
I've always run synthetic in mine (usually Mobile1) and I had those two sensors go bad a couple years back but no problems since.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
navigator said:
the camshaft position sensor will also cause a rough idle and throw a code as well.
I've had one go bad, get one from the dealer and a week later the new one went bad as well.
I've always run synthetic in mine (usually Mobile1) and I had those two sensors go bad a couple years back but no problems since.

Well we're doing a double oil change to try and flush the crap out of it the best we can. Then we will reset the SES and go from there. If the code comes back I'll pay the $30.00 for a new sensor. If that doesn't work...I'll buy the CPAS and wiring harness for $75.00/$18.00 and go from there. This is one expensive can of restore let me tell ya lol. I'm going to e-mail the company. I don't expect them to do anything, but knowing I gave them a good ass reaming will make me feel better :biggrin: That and it eliminates having to b%tch at the hubby :thumbsup:
 

SBUBandit

Member
Dec 5, 2011
597
Considering you haven't had it 2 months yet, that truck is really giving you a crash course in GMT360 repair. Glad to see you are handling it well though:thumbsup:
 

lint

Member
Dec 4, 2011
155
Before you change the oil. You could drain a little out and put something like a quart of'' Marvel Mystery Oil'' in or even seafoam in... It will help get some of the stuff out first.
The'' Marvel Mystery Oil'' will clean and still keep it lubricated and thin out the oil some to break some of it loose , old stuff but works well for things like this.then drain and put new oil in.

You use engine restore when you are selling a junk car to make it run long enough to get it out of the lot. Or if its on its last leg and your trying to get another year out of it.
 

Wyle

Member
Dec 4, 2011
200
lint said:
You use engine restore when you are selling a junk car to make it run long enough to get it out of the lot. Or if its on its last leg and your trying to ...

put it out of its misery.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
SBUBandit said:
Considering you haven't had it 2 months yet, that truck is really giving you a crash course in GMT360 repair. Glad to see you are handling it well though:thumbsup:

I guess I have a taste for lemons :rotfl: my last truck was just as sour....but I love this truck so it's worth it!
 
Voymom said:
Okay so a normal oil change...will jump on that first thing tomorrow! I guess if a flush is needed I can take it to the local mom and pop oil change shop..they will be cheaper than the stealership. Will a K&N oil filter be okay? I heard fram was crappy lol and wait on the sensor?? Or change it?

This is the flush that AMSOIL offers. AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush

If you have any questions about AMSOIL and how to order let me know and I can help you.

Steve
 

Ilikemy3s

Member
Dec 3, 2011
370
Voymom said:
After cleaning the throttle body we had to change the power steering pump, no biggy. Well we changed our power steering pump on Friday, it was a fairly easy job. We drove it approx. 7hrs non stop to go get our new puppy. Left here at 1:30pm and got home at 7:00pm without anything acting up or out of the ordinary.

:

I did not see it mentioend . but figured to ask .. did he disconnect the battery while he cleaned the Throttle body? If not, may want to do that after he changes the oil but before he starts it back up. just a thought
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
Ilikemy3s said:
I did not see it mentioend . but figured to ask .. did he disconnect the battery while he cleaned the Throttle body? If not, may want to do that after he changes the oil but before he starts it back up. just a thought

Alrighty..so we did a flush after the first oil change he stalled out while I was letting it run and cycle through. Let him run for about 20 min. Did the final oil change, cleaned my CPAS...and when I started him up VIOLA!!! No SES and he purrs like a kitten!! Took him down to OReilly's and no codes are being put out anymore. I will work on my write up for the cpas cleaning later tonight...with tons of pics lol
 

blazinlow89

Member
Jan 25, 2012
2,088
:thumbsup:

Glad to hear its back to normal.

I ran so many different things through my old blazer, some helped, others not so much.

My TB always runs alot better after I run seafoam through the intake, and gas tank. Nice smoke show too.
 

Voymom

Original poster
Member
Feb 3, 2012
2,523
I wanted to mention that when we pulled the oil filter off I almost crapped myself. For some reason they had a mopar oil filter made for a chrysler? It says Chrysler right on the oil filter. Just baffled.
 

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