Ignition coil pack brand recommendation

Busterbrown

Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2011
Posts
253
Anyone have a recommendation on coil pack brand? My truck has been throwing a misfire code to the #4 cylinder and it looks like it needs replacing. I checked the OS site for suggestions and found several threads referencing Duralast from Autozone (C1558). Price for this one is $79.00. Then on Advance Auto's site, they have an AC Delco (D1935E) listed for 39.99. So why the big price difference?
 
Check Rock Auto...I used the lest expensive one on my 06 TB and had no problem. It is an AC Delco for $27.xx.
 
hdodd1 said:
Check Rock Auto...I used the lest expensive one on my 06 TB and had no problem. It is an AC Delco for $27.xx.

Thanks. I have a $10 off coupon code at AAP. The ignition coil will only cost $29 and I'll have a brick and mortar to walk back into if it fails. :biggrin:
 
Busterbrown said:
Thanks. I have a $10 off coupon code at AAP. The ignition coil will only cost $29 and I'll have a brick and mortar to walk back into if it fails. :biggrin:

i got all 6 of them for 125 on ebay brand new in box
been in for a while now and no issues yet
side note put in 8 new ebay coils in my ford over 150000mi ago and havent had any probs yet
 
I have replaced 4 of the originals so far with borg warner coil paks , just waiting for the other 2 to crap out.........so far the borg warners are holding up fine
 
A year or two ago, my #4 coil fried b/c of the hood seal leak. Replaced it with the Duralast - looking back on it I cant believe I paid $70 for it, guess I got hosed because I see a lot of you report paying less for Delco & other respected name brands! :mad:
 
Installed the new coil pack this morning and ran it around town on some errands. Trucks runs smoother now. Even a vibration I could feel in the gas pedal is no longer there. The usual #4 cylinder was the culprit. Cleaned the MAF sensor at the same time. Reset the PCM codes and it's back to running like a champ. :thumbsup:
 
Busterbrown said:
Installed the new coil pack this morning and ran it around town on some errands. Trucks runs smoother now. Even a vibration I could feel in the gas pedal is no longer there. The usual #4 cylinder was the culprit. Cleaned the MAF sensor at the same time. Reset the PCM codes and it's back to running like a champ. :thumbsup:

I have pedal vibration. Does this mean it is a coil pack issue?
 
Coil On Plug Failures is NOT a Cause...But a RESULT that occurs whenever any engine develops Lean Fuel Air Conditions in the Cylinders that JACKS UP the Secondary Side High Voltage creation inside the Coil(s) to the point where the (Spark Plug Side can NOT Fire) so it tries to find an easier way to GROUND and will short circuit OUTSIDE the Cylinder in a random manner, This action overheats the Primary Coil Side ...and eventually Destroys The Coil.

Andy Phillips shows us a Great Lean Fuel-Air Conditions Auto Engine Diagnostic on this subject that is Spot On ...with a Beloved Trailblazer:

The Principles are the same for the I-6, V6 and V8 Engines:


PS... Andy has a BOAT LOAD of of other Trailblazer 5.3L Engine and Fuel System Diagnostics and Repair Videos on this same Vehicle over on YouTube.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: movietvet and Camdo
Thanks for the video mrrsm. Although I did not have a P0174 lean fuel air condition, it was informative as to the many nuanced ways failures can occur, and has me thinking.

At 200,000 miles, I changed the spark plugs and noticed some plug wells had motor oil in them, likely the result of leaking valve cover gaskets and seals. I did not replace the gaskets as the job looked substantial at the time. I have wondered if that oil could be cause of premature ignition coil failure. The conundrum is, other cylinders had the most oil in them, but the #1 cylinder is the one that has failed (twice).

The problem may be:
1. I got a weak replacement coil (Walker Products).
2. Oil in the plug well.
3. Lean fuel mix in #1 cylinder caused by a faulty injector (mrrsm) or PCM issue.
4. Some other subtle condition specific to cylinder #1.

Tech2 indicates #1 ignition coil has failed completely (not just a misfire). I will replace it with a Delphi brand to eliminate the first theory.
 
  • Like
  • Wow
Reactions: mrrsm and movietvet
IMO only, coils need to be replaced in sets. These are easy enough to get to, if you don't. But again, IMO.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Camdo and Mooseman
One thing you could do as a hack to reseal the plug wells is to add a washer under each coil mounting bolt head. This will add a little extra pressure to the valve cover to seal the squished gasket.
 
  • Like
Reactions: movietvet and Camdo
Just watched the video. I'm not too sure about the carb cleaner being sprayed all over stuff to find vacuum leaks. Wouldn't that be a problem on plastic and rubber parts?

I've always used a small torch end and propane.
You can use a spray or mist of water, too.
 
Before replacing all of the COPs in One Go... Visit THIS interesting and again ...Spot On.... Coil On Plug "Bench-Top" Diagnostic for ALL of the GM Vortec 4, 5 and 6 In-Line Cylinder Motors:


NOTE: The attached PDF is a mirror of the Site Data that belongs in the "Trailblazer Mechanic's Library"... for present and future reference and sharing.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

Forum Statistics

Threads
24,272
Posts
648,615
Members
20,727
Latest member
Almcphee

Members Online