SOLVED! Higher LTFT at idle and higher at rpms

[2001ZR2]

I am wondering where to look for issues on my son's truck.

Previous owner drove for 2 years w/o resolving P0171 issue.

I have done the following:
New Air Filter
2 replacement coil packs
6 AC Delco 41-103 plugs.
Replaced cracked exhaust manifold
replaced exhaust manifold bolts as 3 were broken at cylinder 6
replaced up stream O2 sensor
Cleaned throttle body and left battery unhooked overnight.

The STFT varies between -4 and +6

LTFT is at 14.8% at idle will go to 25-27 at 2000 RPM.

Slightly hard to start and diesels a bit at shut off

Idles at 900 RPM with or without code but will idle at 600 rpm after code is cleared.; Jumps to 900 after in gear and load applied.

I am thinking about repalcing the IAC and MAP sensors.

MAP will read 97-98 kPa with engine off.

At idle MAP read 32-34 kPa and will increase with engine RPM but highest value seen is 80 kPa.

As the LTFT increases with RPM I am leaning against vacuum leak. My research says should go other way.

MPG is bad at 13 mpg with mostly highway driving and me milking it for fuel economy.

open for suggestions.

 

[gmcman]

What vehicle is it? Year? Bio shows 5.3L but you said you replaced 6 plugs. Sorry if I missed something.

 

[2001ZR2]

Sorry bio only seems to allow one truck.

This is a 2005 Trailblazer with the 4.2l 6 cylinder.
The truck is a new purchase that we've done a ton of work to prepare for my son to take to college.

I didn't mention the new control arm bushings, stabilizer links front and back, tires, tie rods, shocks and struts, and motor mounts as I didn't think that would relevant to the code.

I'm not seeing indications of a vacuum leak and I did check some of easier access manifold bolts. Also added a clamp to brake booster hose at the check valve without a change.

 

[gmcman]

Dieseling at shutoff would lead me to speculate carbon build up in the combustion chambers.

There is a large hose under the intake resonator, this hose goes into the valve cover. Where the hose enters the valve cover, with the engine running, place your finger over that port and wait about 10 seconds...remove your finger and make sure it's drawing vacuum.

If it is then that's good.

Check for a missing vacuum cap here, and if missing does it draw vacuum? I think some years it was blocked off...not sure.



Basic questions I want to ask...

As far as MPG, is that calculated per tankful...gallons added to mileage driven or from the DIC? If the DIC, are you resetting each time?

Inflation pressure of tires and type of tire?

Based on +25% LTFT, it's probably not the tires but they play a huge part so I have to ask.

I believe 2005 is when they started using a MAF meter located in the intake tube. If you have this, has it been cleaned? Also, are you using a K&N air filter? Sometimes the oil can contaminate the fine wires of the MAF meter.

Check the gas cap for that code, also could be a failing EVAP component.

With the dieseling, first thing I would use is a can of BG44k to a full tank of fuel. Trust me, this stuff works quick and is very effective. I would get 2 cans in your case....avail online or at almost any dealer.

 

[gmcman]

I wanted to say as far as the gas cap...I'm thinking of a different code P0440 I was dealing with a week ago. I had that on the brain so likely not related to your lean issue.

 

[gmcman]

Just a reminder, only add 1 can of 44K per tank, you may need to repeat the process on 2nd tank.

 

[2001ZR2]

gmcman I agree with your assessment on the dieseling being carbon build from running rich and having a dead cylinder when I bought it. I wanted to see if others had a different perspective and ideas.

I will test the resonator to valve cover hose and fitting tonight. I didn't get a change with carb cleaner spray so I called it good.

There is a vacuum fitting cap where you show but I haven't removed it yet. I don't see issues and didn't want to pull and create one.

I am planning to pull it to get a vacuum reading there.

Fuel mileage is currently be calculated by the DIC but I check when I fill up. Last fill up had the battery cable removed for work on the truck so wasn't accurate. I do reset the trip odometer, fuel economy, and fuel used every fill up. My family thinks I am a psycho for doing this. My wife on her Envoy Denali thinks this is not important and I should count myself lucky if she resets the trip odometer.

Air cleaner/filter is stock the element is a Wix as I prefer that brand to house brands.

I will check for MAF but I not sure they have one as I haven't found it. I have researched I find hard to believe the fuel air curve is calculated with the IAC and MAP sensor instead. I would have cleaned it if I had found. I will double check.

I have because of age decided to replace the IAC and MAP sensors along with the PCV hose.

I did add a clamp the brake booster end of the vacuum hose without a change in LTFT or it's behavior.

The tires are P245/65/R17 just like stock and are Hankook Dynapro AT2 and currently correctly inflated. The P0171 code proceeds the tire replacement and I did see LTFT above 25 but was learning how to run the scanner then. How would the tires affect the PCM without changing size? I am curious now.

 

[2001ZR2]

I am using Techron fuel cleaner for a 2nd tank but will look into BG44k. Forgot to add that.

 

[gmcman]

You don't need to remove the vacuum cap, just verifying it was there. Sometimes they crack and worth checking.

I've had mixed results with tires, even good LRR highway tires can pull down my MPG's with 30 PSI, I generally run 35 PSI and for me makes a noticeable difference along with even treadwear. Shouldn't affect your trims, but could impact mileage


I don't know for sure if the 05 had a MAF, I thought they did.

I'm all for verifying economy....how else will you know if something is amiss. Wife thinks I'm looney tunes also....I've been dealing with noises recently and has improved dramatically..when we get to where we're going, I leave it run and stick my head in the RF fender opening ...she opens the window and says.....what.....are you doing?

"Can you hear it?"

"Hear what..it's an engine?"

"Just making sure it's not getting worse."

Lol.

 

[whodwho]

What does the water temp look like by scanner when warmed up?

Are you sure it is dieseling, how long does it do it? A fuel injected motor shouldn't diesel as the fuel supply would get cut, where is it getting a fuel source unless puddling somewhere?

 

[2001ZR2]

The gauge reads 210 but scanner tells me it 190.

It hits for a second or two.

Wanted to change the PCV hose tonight but too tired after mowing the lawn. Also need to figure out the clamp. Never seen one like it before.

 

[mrrsm]

There is one condition that might cause a GM 4.2L Engine to Diesel in the absence of a completed ignition circuit, and that would be if the Spinets of the EFIs were so clogged as to drive the ordinarily Atomized Fuel Spray out as a Pure Liquid Stream. Such a condition can cause the Fuel to pool inside of the Cylinder as the Incoming Air Stream is incapable of properly mixing the 14.7 PSI of Ambient Air at Sea Level with 22% Oxygen during each Intake Stroke sufficiently well enough to have the Fuel Burn as VAPOR... since it is NOT possible for Liquid Fuel to properly combust under such poor F/A mixing conditions.

The thing to remember is that the Operational Fuel Pressure remains present within the Fuel Lines after the Ignition is killed and on particularly Clogged EFIs...the Pintle Valves can get stuck slightly open long enough to leak Liquid Fuel down into the Cylinders... AFTER the Motor gets turned OFF.

The other situation is illustrated in the attached Link demonstrating with images of my own 2002 LL8 Engine after a 240,000 Miles Engine Head R&R ... just how serious the Carbon Build Up can really get. Having so much Carbon available can allow the material to soak up extra Liquid Fuel like a Sponge...and with sufficient residual Engine Heat present immediately after shutting down the Engine... Run on for a just few seconds afterwards.

The last thing to consider is a problem in the Ignition Circuitry in which even though the Ignition Key has been re-positioned to the OFF locale... The Electrical Circuit may continue to function is the PCM and certain relays in the Power Distribution Center remain on... even for just a few moments.

NEED HELP - 03 sounds like its "dieseling"

My 03 just did something weird 3 times in a row. I got in to drive home from work. Started fine, nothing out of the ordinary. Drive home(like 2 mins) shut the truck off and it sounds like it was dieseling( trying to keep running after I shut it off. At first I thought it was my amp shutting...

gmtnation.com

 

[whodwho]

The gauge reads 210 but scanner tells me it 190.

It hits for a second or two.

Wanted to change the PCV hose tonight but too tired after mowing the lawn. Also need to figure out the clamp. Never seen one like it before.

That is a bit low for the temp and probably from a failing thermostat which seems to be way too common of an issue and may aggravate your low fuel mileage but I don't believe would be your issue (put it on the to-do list).

As mentioned above injectors could be the issue, a leaking injector could also explain the lower mileage and maybe the dieseling. Using a fuel pressure gauge and seeing that the fuel rail holds pressure after shutting off would be a good test.

 

[2001ZR2]

Thank you for the great input. I think if I should resolve the 14.8% LTFT offset that is there as soon as the key is on but before the engine starts After that is resolved I think the other issues will either stop or be easier to diagnose.

Here is the plan.

I believe the guy who did the relearn after the throttle body cleaning didn't do it correctly. I will redo the cleaning and relearn tonight and see what that does.

While I under the hood I will gather information about the manifold vacuum with a gauge. When the resonator is off I will confirm vacuum at the port on the valve cover.

My new MAP and IAC sensors will be arriving today. I will install them and expect them to reduce the swing on STFT. They may do more but I will do one thing at time and see the effect.

Tomorrow I will do the intake manifold gaskets and PCV hose. Even though I don't believe there is vacuum leak since I can't hear it and the LTFT increase with RPM.

I will do rear brakes (25% pad left and corrosion on the rotors) and the serpentine belts next weekend. I may do the belts with the intake gaskets.

The MPG is creeping up as I think the Techron is cleaning the injectors. Now 13.5 when arrived at work. I also driving around with all 6 firing has slowly improved the truck as well. We drove 2 miles after buying the to the O'Reilly Auto to change the plugs and one coil pack.

Once again thanks for input and replies. I will let you all know how things go.

If I have missed anything let me know

 

[mrrsm]

If you are completely removing the Throttle Body to perform the Cleaning with Spray Solvent-Light Brushing... Just for the Hell of it... Hold the TB firmly in both hands and give it a few "Shakes". At the same time... listen closely on the side where the Solid State Cover protecting the Internal Motor, Gears and delicate Electronics is located inside for anything "loose" rattling around.

If you hear ANYTHING loose in there ...it will indicate that some of the Teeth have broken off of internal High-Low Electric Motor Gears and suggest a visit next to the Local Salvage Yard to perform the same "Shake Test" before purchasing an inexpensive but functional replacement. A New Throttle Body can be found via Amazon, however it is an expensive purchase at around $200.00 if it becomes an absolute necessity to replace it that way. Don't forget to take the Four Fasteners AND the Plastic Round-Tabbed TB Gasket with you if you wind up getting one from the "The Junkers".

 

[gmcman]

Keep in mind the STFT is designed to constantly swing back and forth, not sure of exact number, but 5% either side is not abnormal. This has to happen to keep the cat happy and alive.

Your LTFT is high to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio. Your STFT is swinging back and forth as it should. Your code is from adding excess fuel shown in the LTFT.

If the STFT stayed low, the cat wouldn't light off, if it stayed high, the cat would get too hot, it has to cycle back and forth.

As stated earlier regarding injectors, if the fuel pressure is too low, the fuel won't atomize properly and it may need to add fuel to compensate. Generally that code points to a vacuum leak or an issue with the MAF meter.

Are you certain you dont have one of these? Just have to ask.

 

[Blckshdw]

Are you certain you dont have one of these? Just have to ask.

My 05 doesn't have that

 

[2001ZR2]

gmcman I wish I did but I don't as I looked again for it.

Here's what I have done.

Test vacuum at idle and got 18-20 depending on how tight the vacuum gauge hose was on the gauge.

Weak vacuum at the valve cover gasket but the resonator is with a bit of oil on the valve cover connection.

When I rev'd the engine and the vacuum dropped then would flutter between 18-22. Not sure what to make of that.

The offest on the LTFT was at 21.8 when I turned the key when after I go home and got the iPad to read the scanner.

The vacuum cap on the intake has a crack but it doesn't seem to leak. I will replace anyway.

Removed and cleaned the throttle body and did the relearn procedure. The STFT would jump between 3 and 20 percent. As the LTFT moved it would jump between 0-10 percent as drove it.

Also changed the throttle body gasket for giggles.

The LTFT would go up to 27..3 and stay unless I slowed down on the highway or braked. Then it drop to 0 for a second and go back up. After exiting the highway the LTFT was at 16.8%

had a P0171 code pending which explains the 900 rpm idle within a mile of driving was 650 when I started

Now for changes after I changed the MAP and IAC sensors. The MAP was tighter in the hole be the reading are 1-2 kPa higher. The Intake air temp was about 6 degrees higher with the new sensor. The old one was brown so there is a change their. All Sensors replaced are AC Delco

Oh I nearly forgot the throttle body didn't have any rattles so no broken stepper motor teeth.

I am think intake vacuum leak that doesn't behave as it should with the LTFT but I will do the change as I have the gaskets and I don't want to do it when it's 30 degrees out.

 

[whodwho]

MAFs came on 06+

What does the O2 sensor values look like during all this?

 

[2001ZR2]

Oh the front O2 varies between 0.08 and .800+ so pretty typical if I understand correctly.

The O2 sensor is a new ACDelco with the new exhaust manifold.

 

[gmcman]

MAFs came on 06+

Ok, wasn't sure if it was 05 or 06.

I would like you to pull the vacuum line from the TB when it idles at 900 RPM and cap off the port on the TB....see if the idle drops back down. It's hard to tell if there's a leak in that line as it snakes down under the intake.

 

[mrrsm]

Speaking of the Air Filtration set up on the '05... Is there any chance that you have either an Air Leak at THIS location or a completely Missing Air Filter Gauge Device? (if present on Models after 2002-2003):

 

[whodwho]

Being upstream of the TB (without running a MAF) I don't see that this could cause this issue?

 

[mrrsm]

You are not thinking about my suggestion in the correct light. The relevance of its absence will depend upon whether or not the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor is In FRONT of that Air Filter Gauge... or BEHIND it ...since the Air Temperature immediately outside of the Air Box Inlet will be substantially Higher around the Hot Engine atmosphere than if the Air Ducting is properly maintaining its Integrity right up to the entry into Throttle Body.

 

[2001ZR2]

The secondary air injection connection (?) is there and there is possibility it's not working correctly.

Don't have the piece in the circle on the 2nd picture.

Gonna replace the intake manifold gaskets today to see if they are culprit but mostly to prevent doing it when it's 30 degrees out.

 

[whodwho]

You are not thinking about my suggestion in the correct light. The relevance of its absence will depend upon whether or not the Inlet Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor is In FRONT of that Air Filter Gauge... or BEHIND it ...since the Air Temperature immediately outside of the Air Box Inlet will be substantially Higher around the Hot Engine atmosphere than if the Air Ducting is properly maintaining its Integrity right up to the entry into Throttle Body.

ahh, I thought were thinking the influence of false air. I would think sensing a hotter air charge would command for a leaner mix?

 

[2001ZR2]

gmcman very interesting change when I disconnected the hose like you suggested.

Immediate drop to 650 idle and the check engine line went out for a couple of minutes.

The LTFT began acting like a vacuum leak so the intake manifold will need to be done. Now I have to research the EVAP system (?) to find out what piece there are for that.

 

[mrrsm]

... and if left open for any length of to time...manage to ingest enough Dirt and Sand that can be expelled into the Exhaust Stream and erode or damage the delicate Zirconium Di-Oxide Element inside of the exposed core of the O2 Sensor... with incorrect readings leading to Rich A/F issues possibly occurring as a result.

Remember... The Upstream O2 Sensor sits in the middle of the Apex of all (6) Exhaust Manifold Runners...right at the point of its greatest concentration where anything like particulate matter in the Exhaust Stream can hammer away at the O2 Sensor on its way out.

 

[gmcman]

Immediate drop to 650 idle and the check engine line went out for a couple of minutes

Did you cap off the port on the TB after you removed the line? Mainly I'm curious if that evap line has a leak.

 

[2001ZR2]

Yes the TB was capped off so the line has a leak. I suspected when I saw that the release tab was broken.

$15 and wait till Tuesday to get it. I will delay the intake maniflod gasket change until it's in as they are easiest to do at the same time.

 

[gmcman]

Ok, good to hear....hopefully this leak can be tracked down. That line feeds a network so could be anywhere from the TB, to the purge valve, to the vent valve.

 

[whodwho]

I'm not sure that doing the intake manifold gaskets or chasing vacuum leaks will really do much to resolve this issue.

This being a year with MAP based injection, a vacuum leak is not really a problem. It is a pressure based fuel algorithm and uses pressure(vacuum) for its calculations and doesn't really care where it gets its air charge from. (A system that uses a pressure referenced fuel pressure regulator could have issues with a vacuum leak but I don't believe this uses it)

The only issue with false air bypassing the TB is the idle speed and depending on the amount of air volume from the 'leak' it can probably compensate for idle speed.

So not to say fixing leaks isn't important just don't get your expectations up 8^(

 

[2001ZR2]

I did fill it up today and the DIC was off by fuel usage 3 gallons. It showed 18 gallons used but the tank took 15. I will watch it again to see if this repeats.

Where should I look if the vacuum leaks won't fix the issue and turn off the SES light with the P0171 code?

We have a new exhaust manifold with a new ACDelco O2 sensor since the old manifold was cracked and had broken bolts on cylinder number 6.

New 41-103 plugs and two new coil packs. Number 1 was dead when I purchased it and number is hard to land the wiring I may not have had it on all way when I replaced it. Both had corrosion on the outside.

New WIX air filter and fresh oil so I can set a maintenance baseline.

New MAP and IAC sensor as they appeared original and this truck has 176k miles, Again ACDelco.

Cleaned the throttle body and new gasket (ACDelco).

Have filled it twice adding Techron Fuel system cleaner both times. Once on the drive home and again before I drove it to work this past week.

Might have a dirty fuel injector or low fuel pressure but the engine pulls too strong to make me believe that there is an issue. Also no code set not even a misfire one.

The coolant sensor is showing 190-196 when the dash gauge show 210 degrees F just one side of the line or the other. Might be a dying sensor/thermostat but that is a fix for another day I think. Also we added a trans cooler in series with the one in the radiator so we might be dissipating heat differently than stock.

I've even done things like drain and refill the front diff and flush the brake system to set a baseline on those. Only the transfer case and rear diff need this baseline set. The coolant is looks good and it full as it should be and holding level.

The goal on this truck is 4 years and 50k miles without having to drive 4 hours to fix while my son in college.

So again I ask if the EVAP hose and the intake gasket aren't setting the P0171 code and creating the rich LTFT and STFT then what is?

I have gotten loads of help and made a couple of good diagnoses and I am truly grateful but I have less than 2 weeks to get this sorted out so I will take all the help I can get.

 

[mrrsm]

Because performing an R&R of the Intake Manifold to access the Fuel Rail to remove, clean and/or simply replace all (6) Fuel Injectors is one Helluva Lot of PITA Work... I hate to return to what I covered in Post #12... But... GM saw enough of a nexus between the P0171 (and a few other codes as well) to have put out THIS TSB on the subject. I'm dropping the Link to that TSB PDF only to emphasize that the EFIs are just about the only thing that you have not tried eliminating from the Problem Solving Grid as yet.

But bear in mind that just as @gmcman has suggested... if the Fuel Pump cannot deliver the fuel in the Higher Pressure Ranges expected... then the EFIs will NOT be able to develop a Decent "Atomizing" Spray Pattern. So eliminating the Fuel Pump from this equation should be done FIRST.

I'm also suggesting that rather than following the GM EFI Cleaning Instructions below, that you consider getting a complete set of ASNU Treated Flow-Balanced re-manufactured EFIs via RockAuto, Amazon or eBay ...and thereby side-step GM's suggested highly complex "On The Vehicle" method for trying to Clean them "In Situ":

https://www.autocodes.com/uploads/gmc/03-06-04-030F.pdf

One last thought... If your PCM Program Calibration has NOT been updated... it might be worth spending the $100.00 to have a Dealership use their Tech 2 to re-calibrate your SUV "Brain Box". GM often solves a 'Multitude of Sins" by Tweaking the Software and achieving their desire of having fewer Customer Complaints and Driveability issues in one fell swoop. You are the driving a (14) Year Old GM Product... so it is VERY likely that the necessary Legacy Updates ...are in arrears.

 

[gmcman]

The only issue with false air bypassing the TB is the idle speed and depending on the amount of air volume from the 'leak' it can probably compensate for idle speed.

I was pretty sure it could compensate as well, but was away from mine to verify. I was very curious that once the issue presented itself, how the engine would respond to closing that port. What's interesting is the RPM's dropped so something is going on with unmetered air.

Could the TB not be closing enough to reduce the airflow? Maybe the thin edge of the butterfly is dirty.

I was able to check mine and let it warm up by idling, note the cat hasn't lit off yet and generally takes a little longer likely due to age.

Here's a screenshot of the Torque Pro app and how I have this screen layed out. This is with the engine idling normally, note the intake pressure read by the MAP sensor as well as the throttle position.




This is the screenshot with the evap line disconnected...didn't take long for the PCM to compensate, note the intake pressure has settled to the previous value, but the throttle has closed much more, down to .8% from 3.9%. If the TB butterfly is dirty on the thin edge, it may not close enough.

One last thought... If your PCM Program Calibration has NOT been updated... it might be worth spending the $100.00 to have a Dealership use their Tech 2 to re-calibrate your SUV "Brain Box". GM often solves a 'Multitude of Sins" by Tweaking the Software and achieving their desire of having fewer Customer Complaints and Driveability issues in one fell swoop. You are the driving a (14) Year Old GM Product... so it is VERY likely that the necessary Legacy Updates ...are in arrears.

This is a very possible scenario. I remember reading of members in the past fixing issues by a reflash of the PCM. I know before mine was 6 YO, the dealer recommended a re-flash and I know I have had at least one performed somewhere around 2004- 2006.

 

[xavierny25]

I was pretty sure it could compensate as well, but was away from mine to verify. I was very curious that once the issue presented itself, how the engine would respond to closing that port. What's interesting is the RPM's dropped so something is going on with unmetered air.

Could the TB not be closing enough to reduce the airflow? Maybe the thin edge of the butterfly is dirty.

I was able to check mine and let it warm up by idling, note the cat hasn't lit off yet and generally takes a little longer likely due to age.

Here's a screenshot of the Torque Pro app and how I have this screen layed out. This is with the engine idling normally, note the intake pressure read by the MAP sensor as well as the throttle position.

View attachment 90434


This is the screenshot with the evap line disconnected...didn't take long for the PCM to compensate, note the intake pressure has settled to the previous value, but the throttle has closed much more, down to .8% from 3.9%. If the TB butterfly is dirty on the thin edge, it may not close enough.

View attachment 90435




This is a very possible scenario. I remember reading of members in the past fixing issues by a reflash of the PCM. I know before mine was 6 YO, the dealer recommended a re-flash and I know I have had at least one performed somewhere around 2004- 2006.

@gmcman I wanted to replicate and compare screenshots of your torque pids to see how thing are running on my end and this is what I got.
Although I didn't take it as it was just warming up, it was after a 16 mile drive coming home from work. What are your thought?

 

[gmcman]

I forgot to mention I did not have my A/C on, also didn't take a screenshot to compare so not sure what the throttle setting would be if your A/C was on.

Honestly.....it doesn't look terribly bad. LTFT is a little high but I know mine have been that high before with no ill-effects. 122 deg intake temp can swing the ignition timing a little...what was the LTFT running at a constant hwy speed?

 

[2001ZR2]

When the Evap was hooked it rise to 27 percent think the highest I saw was 28.3. On the highway and would fall to 14.8 or at isle.

Now without it hooked up is between 15.1 and 14.8 at idle. It was slowly falling as RPM increased. I am learning my.software so I don't know how to share the data logging.

Took.a day off from this and just reinstalled the lower cover for oil drain and filter, confirmed coolant good to -25F and filled the rear diff. It was touch low which after 176k miles not a surprise.

Just make it still sets the code and idles at 900 rpm. Just have correct the two known smoking guns and proceed from there.

 

[2001ZR2]

I did fix the leaking CV boot that was my fault for not securing the shaft when I heated the control arm to replace the ball joint. The seal job didn't hold.

 

[xavierny25]

I forgot to mention I did not have my A/C on, also didn't take a screenshot to compare so not sure what the throttle setting would be if your A/C was on.

Honestly.....it doesn't look terribly bad. LTFT is a little high but I know mine have been that high before with no ill-effects. 122 deg intake temp can swing the ignition timing a little...what was the LTFT running at a constant hwy speed?

The ac was not running at all on this trip. I've never really monitored intake temp. I might have to clean my green filter although I did about 3 months ago or I could be pulling to much warm air from the engine bay some how. I do have a gutted factory filter cover. I'll keep an eye on the LTFT when I go for drive after work tomorrow. I'll also get a screenshot of these pids while idle and at operating temp(180° or so) before I take off.

Edit: I'm a little concerned with my throttle being so open not sure what to do there since I just cleaned the hell out of my throttle body recently.