HID's gone horribly wrong....This is why u dont go cheap,pics inside

[Irishboy02]

I believe when you get the kit they only come in the slim ballast as the option.

Only thing I wish DDM did was send instructions on how to install them and a nicer packaging lol

Yea there packaging is pretty crappy, but I guess its cost effective and works!

When you click on HID kits, these are the options you get. Sorry I have no idea how to screen shot my comp, so i took a cell pic instead

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Hmm I never saw that actually! Must have missed it! I am personally debating to get HID's for my fogs! Do not want to blind oncoming drivers due to them glaring so much!

 

[kjkim93]

HIDS in my fogs seem fine. Minimal glaring. But i think it really depends on the Temp you chose. I hate driving and seeing the ricers and CUVs with 10000k fogs . Makes me blind!

 

[ItsOnVoy]

HIDS in my fogs seem fine. Minimal glaring. But i think it really depends on the Temp you chose. I hate driving and seeing the ricers and CUVs with 10000k fogs . Makes me blind!

Oh no I was thinking to do 5k max but I have seen people (grand prix drivers mostly) with 5-8k for fogs and they blind the crap out of me...I dont know why those gp have there fogs aims so high or poorly made!

 

[Irishboy02]

Could also be how they have their lenses aimed. Some people, my friends included, aim their fogs even with their headlights - defeats the purpose of a fog light staying lower to the ground. If they have their fogs aimed high, since its coming up from a lower angle they will bother on-coming drivers. Once you get them, aim your fogs with your lows off, then re-adjust your lows with your fogs off. Then turn them both on to make sure its just right.

Some more pennies from me: If you are going to run your lows/fogs with the same temp bulb, try to keep them both from the same company. Often two companies will say their bulbs burn at a certain temp but the color might be slightly off from the other. Might just be my OCD, but if you want it to be as clean as possible id recommend that.

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Could also be how they have their lenses aimed. Some people, my friends included, aim their fogs even with their headlights - defeats the purpose of a fog light staying lower to the ground. If they have their fogs aimed high, since its coming up from a lower angle they will bother on-coming drivers. Once you get them, aim your fogs with your lows off, then re-adjust your lows with your fogs off. Then turn them both on to make sure its just right.

My lows are aimed just right so I do not get into trouble from them and never been flashed. I actually had to aim them higher last year because of how low they were and I check them from a distance and weren't bad. There was some glare but its the same all those cars have that come stock with them so I have been fine with the lows. Now for the fogs how do you aim them? Is it the same thing like the lows? A knob I turn to make them go up and down? My fogs are aim at the ground anyway and light up the sides mostly so I think they are fine but that can be different with HID's

Some more pennies from me: If you are going to run your lows/fogs with the same temp bulb, try to keep them both from the same company. Often two companies will say their bulbs burn at a certain temp but the color might be slightly off from the other. Might just be my OCD, but if you want it to be as clean as possible id recommend that.

Yeah I hear that myself! My buddy has used ddm and vvme and said the 6k in vvme is a bit whiter then the ddm kit he had. I have 6k in my lows but I was going to go with 5k for the fogs to stay away from any blue and maybe do 5k for lows I am not sure. I like how the 6k look

 

[eutechnyx]

Stupid question but how to u aim/adjust the headlights on the envoy? I see no adjustment screws or anything...Since my truck is bagged and I ride cali alot I need to aim them down some. Thanks.

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Stupid question but how to u aim/adjust the headlights on the envoy? I see no adjustment screws or anything...Since my truck is bagged and I ride cali alot I need to aim them down some. Thanks.

When you pop the hood on top of the headlight assembly, there is a whitish look knob on the top and you use that to aim them up and down. Hope that makes sense? If not Ill go grab a picture for you

Edit: here is a picture for you, sorry the relay is kind of in the way

Driver side

Passenger side

Hope that helps out

 

[kjkim93]

From my experience Dont put too much force on the adjustment knob. It is a plastic knob moving a metal part and with enough force you will lose all the teeth and not be able to adjust aside anymore.

 

[Canadian Mike]

You'll need a reverse Torx screwdriver. Be very careful as they break easy. Plastic on metal = disaster.

 

[ItsOnVoy]

From my experience Dont put too much force on the adjustment knob. It is a plastic knob moving a metal part and with enough force you will lose all the teeth and not be able to adjust aside anymore.

I personally used a small wrench to help turn it, grabs it well! I personally have big hands so it was a pain in the ass doing the passenger side because of how its located lol so that wrench did help a bit

 

[eutechnyx]

so is the best way to do it with the reverse torx or with a wrench? what size wrench?

 

[ItsOnVoy]

so is the best way to do it with the reverse torx or with a wrench? what size wrench?

It does not really matter whatever is easier for you! I personally do not remember the size for the wrench I kind of had to use a couple to see which one fits and used that one. I believe the reverse torx will be much easier if you have one of those

 

[MAY03LT]

IIRC a 1/4" socket works on the adjuster screws.

 

[Irishboy02]

I used a socket with an extension when i had mine, have a similar setup now with my sierra.

I did not have fogs on my TB, however id assume the adjustment setup has to be similar. My truck now, use an allen key to crank up the adjustment. Being that your already pointing down, id say just slap in the HIDs into the fogs and see where you sit from there. If theyr down, itl stay low. Plus once your doing your install youl be able to find the adjustment piece.

 

[ItsOnVoy]

I used a socket with an extension when i had mine, have a similar setup now with my sierra.

I did not have fogs on my TB, however id assume the adjustment setup has to be similar. My truck now, use an allen key to crank up the adjustment. Being that your already pointing down, id say just slap in the HIDs into the fogs and see where you sit from there. If theyr down, itl stay low. Plus once your doing your install youl be able to find the adjustment piece.

I am going to play with fogs tonight and see how they are actually aiming. I know that there cut off line for the fogs are not perfect.

 

[Sparky]

I hear bad things about Xentec kits. They seem to have problems more often then other brands. For light output, how much better are they then the DDMtuning lights? I think the ddm is pretty bright thats for sure!

I've not used DDM but I know of enough people who had issues with them (inconsistent color, overly hot bulbs, etc) that I never even bothered with them.

 

[eutechnyx]

Just to update.......STILL waiting on the package. Ordered them close to 10 days ago.

 

[kjkim93]

Their delivery service kind be kind so spotty. Same happened to me. Mine took about 2 weeks. My friends took 5 days

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Yeah I think it depends on your location maybe. Did you get a tracking number from them? Also remember its coming from outside the USA

 

[eutechnyx]

Yeah tracking says they have been in new York for 5 days....

 

[jimmyjam]

hey ken, just saw the pics. was that burnt wiring by the ballast where it melted like that? the reason i ask is that the ballast might be fine, just a bad connection caused overheating of the wire and it melted the plastic ballast enclosure

I was having a problem with my driver side HIDs turning off, first i thought it was the ballast but then realized both the fog and low beam were turning off at the same time. well i dug into it and and i had both of them grounded to the same spot, connected with a single spade terminal. the wire after the spade terminal was a brittle and looks like it had melted. I'm assuming the female side of the spade terminal wasn't making good enough connection and would heat up/break connection.

as you can see in your pic the melted wire is between the butt splice and the relay socket. I would venture to guess that if you took the spade terminal out of the relay socket you'd find it is corroded or loose.

I could be completely wrong but i think it if was the ballast you'd see melted wire on that entire circuit between the ballast and your power source. aaannnyywhoooooo

 

[Irishboy02]

Yea they do ship from China, plus dont forget the weekend. Let me guess...Jamacia NY was your last shipping location update? Takes me just over a week, and im 20min outside NYC

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Yea they do ship from China, plus dont forget the weekend. Let me guess...Jamacia NY was your last shipping location update? Takes me just over a week, and im 20min outside NYC

Plus I think they use fed ex or ups or something like that I believe and they are a lot slower then the usps service we are used to. He will get them very soon

 

[Irishboy02]

Mine have always been USPS for me. Maybe they switch it up depending on the destination?

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Mine have always been USPS for me. Maybe they switch it up depending on the destination?

hmm no idea, my cuz bought them on his account for me and they shipped using fed ex at the time so maybe they do work it out on location and what is cheapest for them too

 

[DFWWIZ]

Any HID you buy CAN have a problem regardless of make/brand. You'd be surprised how many different brands are made in the same factories and a different sticker or casing is used. Anytime you add HID to a vehicle that did not come with HID you may or may not have a problem. Alot of it depends on your electrical system, alternator, battery, the ECM/BCM or what ever is controlling power to your lights. HID's draw alot more power due to the fact they are basically inverting voltage from 12 V to thousands of volts. You just can't start pointing fingers at one brand over another to blame. The only reason you need a relay is because of DRL-daytime running light voltage is about 70% of 12 volts which is fine for filament bulbs. Its like a dimmer switch on lights in your home. Ballasts don't like a fluctuating power supply or one that is 70% of 12 volts. The only reason you would use a relay on lights other than DRL low beams is if you don't trust the guage of wiring used to power them and the relay will have that larger gauge wiring. Hope this helps people understand that have questions.

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Any HID you buy CAN have a problem regardless of make/brand. You'd be surprised how many different brands are made in the same factories and a different sticker or casing is used. Anytime you add HID to a vehicle that did not come with HID you may or may not have a problem. Alot of it depends on your electrical system, alternator, battery, the ECM/BCM or what ever is controlling power to your lights. HID's draw alot more power due to the fact they are basically inverting voltage from 12 V to thousands of volts. You just can't start pointing fingers at one brand over another to blame. The only reason you need a relay is because of DRL-daytime running light voltage is about 70% of 12 volts which is fine for filament bulbs. Its like a dimmer switch on lights in your home. Ballasts don't like a fluctuating power supply or one that is 70% of 12 volts. The only reason you would use a relay on lights other than DRL low beams is if you don't trust the guage of wiring used to power them and the relay will have that larger gauge wiring. Hope this helps people understand that have questions.

The relay harness does not help what so ever with the DRL's. Only way to fix that is with a cap mod/killer. Now because of the factory harness being so thin yes that relay is great use to prevent a future melted factory harness because of the amount of power needed to light the HID's.

Honestly I think it is okay to point fingers really, hey they might be made in the same factory but seems to me that the DDM and VVME and the retro fit site that sells them seem to have great quality bulbs (do not change colors on you or life is what they should be) and kits. I had a buddy buy a kit from car id and his lights are changing colors on him and one is way more blue then another etc. Yes your right problems happen no matter the brand but a better brand just gives you a less chance for a problem really.

 

[DFWWIZ]

The relay harness does not help what so ever with the DRL's. Only way to fix that is with a cap mod/killer. Now because of the factory harness being so thin yes that relay is great use to prevent a future melted factory harness because of the amount of power needed to light the HID's.

Honestly I think it is okay to point fingers really, hey they might be made in the same factory but seems to me that the DDM and VVME and the retro fit site that sells them seem to have great quality bulbs (do not change colors on you or life is what they should be) and kits. I had a buddy buy a kit from car id and his lights are changing colors on him and one is way more blue then another etc. Yes your right problems happen no matter the brand but a better brand just gives you a less chance for a problem really.

Sure a relay harness does help on DRLs. The relay only needs minimal power of the 70% voltage given by the stock harness to trip the relay on. The current going to the ballasts is now a steady 12 v plus from the battery, usually around 13+ volts because of alternator output (if its working properly). It does not flucuate down below 12 volts. At night the lights get full power going thru the stock harness to trip the relay. For that reason, I just turn off my lights during the day when starting mine up and have never had any mod-cap/relay or whatever and my HIDs have worked for several years with out a glitch. And the colors in each of the bulbs are still consistant with each other.

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Sure a relay harness does help on DRLs. The relay only needs minimal power of the 70% voltage given by the stock harness to trip the relay on. The current going to the ballasts is now a steady 12 v plus from the battery, usually around 13+ volts because of alternator output (if its working properly). It does not flucuate down below 12 volts. At night the lights get full power going thru the stock harness to trip the relay. For that reason, I just turn off my lights during the day when starting mine up and have never had any mod-cap/relay or whatever and my HIDs have worked for several years with out a glitch. And the colors in each of the bulbs are still consistant with each other.

its amazing how every time I read about HID's on this site or TV back then its like news to me loll I was told the relay does not help with them. So are you saying that you can run DRL's on the HID's even tho they will flicker and buzz like crazy? Mine do even with a relay if I would run them. I know that if you do that the relay will go bad and the ballast will too? also at night when the lights power up they use the stock harness? Our relay is hooked up to the stock harness not the ballast, the ballast is what fires up the bulbs? so would it use the relay to get the ballast to fire up the bulbs? so confused now sorry lol

 

[DFWWIZ]

its amazing how every time I read about HID's on this site or TV back then its like news to me loll I was told the relay does not help with them. So are you saying that you can run DRL's on the HID's even tho they will flicker and buzz like crazy? Mine do even with a relay if I would run them. I know that if you do that the relay will go bad and the ballast will too? also at night when the lights power up they use the stock harness? Our relay is hooked up to the stock harness not the ballast, the ballast is what fires up the bulbs? so would it use the relay to get the ballast to fire up the bulbs? so confused now sorry lol

Well if you run a relay which is tripped by the current from the stock light plug, the relay is now giving FULL power via the connection to the battery. All the stock headlight plug is now doing is providing a signal, if you will, to turn on the relay. If your HIDs are flickering/buzzing after doing this you have other underlying problems.
The relay is in between the stock harness plug which originally went to the stock bub, and the 2 ballasts.

 

[Wooluf1952]

The DRL's don't run at 70% of 12 volts, like a rheostat. They run at 12 volts 70% of the time. Like flipping a switch ON-OFF very fast.
That's what causes the buzzing in the relay.

 

[Blckshdw]

To expand on Wooluf1952's post... Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) - Here's the definition from Wikipedia for those who don't fully understand what it means, and what it's doing in our trucks for the DRL

The average value of voltage (and current) fed to the load is controlled by turning the switch between supply and load on and off at a fast pace. The longer the switch is on compared to the off periods, the higher the power supplied to the load is.

The PWM switching frequency has to be much faster than what would affect the load, which is to say the device that uses the power. Typically switchings have to be done several times a minute in an electric stove, 120 Hz in a lamp dimmer, from few kilohertz (kHz) to tens of kHz for a motor drive and well into the tens or hundreds of kHz in audio amplifiers and computer power supplies.

The term duty cycle describes the proportion of 'on' time to the regular interval or 'period' of time; a low duty cycle corresponds to low power, because the power is off for most of the time. Duty cycle is expressed in percent, 100% being fully on.

The 70% everyone is used to seeing being referenced, is the duty cycle, not 70% of 14V (just under 10V) being supplied to the ballasts/bulbs. Hope this helps clear things up a little bit.

 

[Sparky]

Good quality HIDs draw less power than halogen bulbs, not more, but only when in operation. They have a pretty decent current spike when first kicking on.

 

[jimmyjam]

oww i've got a bruise on my forehead...

at a minimum, you have to use a relay and put a capacitor (i've read 470uF) in parallel with your relay coil to smooth out the pwm signal to a point where it will maintain enough voltage to keep the relay energized. this is the "capacitor mod". otherwise you'll hear a lovely buzzing as the contactor repeatedly slams at whatever frequency the pwm signal is. In previous write-ups the capacitor is placed by the BCM, which is fine. It achieves the same effect, just when it is placed at the BCM, you are smoothing the input the the factory headlamp "solid state" relay in the fuse box

or your other option is the "relay mod" where you power your lights off of a relay that is activated by the "Headlamps On" indicator light in the headlamp switch module, which effectively disables DRL.

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Well if you run a relay which is tripped by the current from the stock light plug, the relay is now giving FULL power via the connection to the battery. All the stock headlight plug is now doing is providing a signal, if you will, to turn on the relay. If your HIDs are flickering/buzzing after doing this you have other underlying problems.
The relay is in between the stock harness plug which originally went to the stock bub, and the 2 ballasts.

my flickering that i would get is only during drls or when unlocking the car. which makes sense due to the lack of full power going to them so that is why they will flicker or buzz. This is what I have learned and read over time. At night my lights are fine like they should be. I recently put a drl module and that has been working like a charm and running the hids at 12v 100% of the time even during drls.

I was just confused to how the relay is good for the drls really. Because it does not help the drl or fix it at all. Like jimmyjam said you need to do the cap mod to get 12v 100% of the time or you can do a drl killer to get rid of them over all. The relay is just to save the factory harness.

 

[eutechnyx]

Got em yesterday. The relay harness is 100% identical to the ebay one I bought before lol. But these ballasts look and feel much better quality. It has a little square box built into the ends of them is that a built in relay or something?

 

[Blckshdw]

Got em yesterday. The relay harness is 100% identical to the ebay one I bought before lol. But these ballasts look and feel much better quality. It has a little square box built into the ends of them is that a built in relay or something?

Post a pic, then we'll have a much better idea.

 

[eutechnyx]

Sorry didnt get a pic...but after inspecting the kit it is a much higher quality kit. Installed with no relay and WOW....no flicker,no hesitation when starting the truck AND i pulled it out from under the carport headlights went off,pulled back under they came back on INSTANTLY with NO issues. Im VERY happy with this kit. I dont see a need to relay them right now since they are working flawlessly ATM. I might relay them later but I am saving myself that headache for now. they were blinding my GF in pure daylight so I know there brighter than the others.

 

[ItsOnVoy]

Sorry didnt get a pic...but after inspecting the kit it is a much higher quality kit. Installed with no relay and WOW....no flicker,no hesitation when starting the truck AND i pulled it out from under the carport headlights went off,pulled back under they came back on INSTANTLY with NO issues. Im VERY happy with this kit. I dont see a need to relay them right now since they are working flawlessly ATM. I might relay them later but I am saving myself that headache for now. they were blinding my GF in pure daylight so I know there brighter than the others.

I would personally just relay them now...why wait for a headache to happen to start but glad you like them! They are great kits and they will work for a long time too!