Having a lot of trouble removing front cv axles, need help

blackout51

Original poster
Member
Oct 18, 2012
157
So I'm trying to pull my cv axles and cannot get them to pop out of the axles, I have tried all of the different ways and nothing is working, when I pry it just pulls the whole engine to the side and I get no leverage. Is there something I'm missing?
 

tblazerdude

Member
Dec 4, 2011
321
less pry more pop. 5 lb sledge and something metal and solid and long (rebar? small jack handle?) . whack away.
 

blackout51

Original poster
Member
Oct 18, 2012
157
tblazerdude said:
less pry more pop. 5 lb sledge and something metal and solid and long (rebar? small jack handle?) . whack away.

I've got a very good angle with a crowbar and a 5lb sledge but have been hammering for over an hour and it's doing nothing at all
 

The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
An impact is always more effective than a pry force. Get the recommended straight rebar or huge screwdriver and a BFH and mallet it at a slight angle from under the oil pan.
 

blackout51

Original poster
Member
Oct 18, 2012
157
the roadie said:
An impact is always more effective than a pry force. Get the recommended straight rebar or huge screwdriver and a BFH and mallet it at a slight angle from under the oil pan.

Still no good, I tried it and its not even moving, it's like it's bolted in
 

tomsmith

Member
Mar 12, 2013
30
I had exactly the same problem .. couldn't get the CV axles out after trying for around 2 hours. This is how I got around it

1. Lying under the vehicle, position a 2ft piece of steel where the red arrow is

View attachment 26842

Then, give the drift (the steel bar) some really, really hefty whacks. Mine popped out after 3 hits. It might seem like it's really jammed in, but it's just a matter of hitting it at the right spot with enough force. There is a clip that keeps it connected, a solid enough hit and you'll pop it free.

Thanks to Roadie for the image :wink:
 

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The_Roadie

Lifetime VIP Donor
Member
Nov 19, 2011
9,957
Portland, OR
I take hundreds of pictures, and love it when somebody embellishes them. :thumbsup:

First time I did the passenger's side, it was tough. Took a second person to run the long-handled sledgehammer. Since then, it's been easier because I greased the splines and circlip. 1-2 whacks with a 3 pound hand sledge and it does come out. Persistence and a bit more oomph should do it. Rotate the assembly every 2-3 whacks in case you have a totally bound up circlip and you have to be hitting it on the tripot housing exactly where the circlip opening is. You might be whacking at a solid part of the circlip and it's harder to compress that way. Guaranteed there is no bolt - all you have is a dry joint and perhaps some corrosion. Impact should break that free.
 

blackout51

Original poster
Member
Oct 18, 2012
157
the roadie said:
I take hundreds of pictures, and love it when somebody embellishes them. :thumbsup:

First time I did the passenger's side, it was tough. Took a second person to run the long-handled sledgehammer. Since then, it's been easier because I greased the splines and circlip. 1-2 whacks with a 3 pound hand sledge and it does come out. Persistence and a bit more oomph should do it. Rotate the assembly every 2-3 whacks in case you have a totally bound up circlip and you have to be hitting it on the tripot housing exactly where the circlip opening is. You might be whacking at a solid part of the circlip and it's harder to compress that way. Guaranteed there is no bolt - all you have is a dry joint and perhaps some corrosion. Impact should break that free.

Well I just got done trying the slide hammer/adapter method and that got me no where, I have been working on this for 7 hours now..on one axle and it literally hasn't moved at all. I have spun the axle and hit on all of the different points, I tried from the outside with a big crow bar, from the oil pan opening with multiple different things, it just isnt moving at all and I know it's bad because when I put the hub back on and try to spin the hub by hand it rotates half a turn then I have to force it through a heavy clunk, but when the hub is off it doesn't do that, the hub is brand new.
 

tomsmith

Member
Mar 12, 2013
30
As others have mentioned, I don't think the pry bar will help :sadcry: Yours sound like it might be corroded so you have to break the corrosion through impact first.

Have you tried a pickle fork right where the axle goes into the oil pan / disconnect housing? I imagine the tapered fork with a solid hit with a hammer will be enough to force it loose?

When i did mine, I removed the spindle so the CV shaft wasn't connected to the bearing at all. I wasn't sure if there would be enough 'play' for the CV axle to pop out of the disconnect if it was still connected to the wheel bearing. A lot of of people recommend leaving it connected and just undo the top ball joint, but I disconnected everything.

1 more suggestion .. if you're using the drift bar method, try and keep the bar as horizontal as possible. You want all the energy from the hammer/mallet to be transferred to push the CV axle outward, not upward.
 

blackout51

Original poster
Member
Oct 18, 2012
157
tomsmith said:
As others have mentioned, I don't think the pry bar will help :sadcry: Yours sound like it might be corroded so you have to break the corrosion through impact first.

Have you tried a pickle fork right where the axle goes into the oil pan / disconnect housing? I imagine the tapered fork with a solid hit with a hammer will be enough to force it loose?

When i did mine, I removed the spindle so the CV shaft wasn't connected to the bearing at all. I wasn't sure if there would be enough 'play' for the CV axle to pop out of the disconnect if it was still connected to the wheel bearing. A lot of of people recommend leaving it connected and just undo the top ball joint, but I disconnected everything.

1 more suggestion .. if you're using the drift bar method, try and keep the bar as horizontal as possible. You want all the energy from the hammer/mallet to be transferred to push the CV axle outward, not upward.


What I mean by crowbar is holding it and hitting it, not prying. I have been using this slide hammer as hard as I can which is much harder than I could with the sledge and am getting no where, also I got a pickle fork and used it multiple ways and nothing either
 

tomsmith

Member
Mar 12, 2013
30
Ok, at the risk of insinuating you are doing something wrong (which is not my intention), are you sure you are hitting the area that I marked with a red arrow? That is, you've got your crowbar against it and you are hitting in the direction of the arrow?
 

blackout51

Original poster
Member
Oct 18, 2012
157
tomsmith said:
Ok, at the risk of insinuating you are doing something wrong (which is not my intention), are you sure you are hitting the area that I marked with a red arrow? That is, you've got your crowbar against it and you are hitting in the direction of the arrow?

Well it was the most frustrating job I have done yet to that thing but I finally got the drivers side out, which was the bad one. What wound up working was the slide hammer, I just couldn't get enough of a hit with the hammer. I had to use a hammer to get the new one in even, which I found crazy. But thanks for all the help everybody!
 

Opeth

Member
Mar 25, 2012
177
We're you using the correct adapter with the slide hammer? I have a forked shaped adapter that slides in behind the cv between the diff and tripod joint. Usually gets the job done with one good slide.
 

blackout51

Original poster
Member
Oct 18, 2012
157
Opeth said:
We're you using the correct adapter with the slide hammer? I have a forked shaped adapter that slides in behind the cv between the diff and tripod joint. Usually gets the job done with one good slide.

Yeah that's what I was using, I hammered as hard as I could on that thing for like 3 hours before it finally popped out. I have no idea why it was in there so tight
 

navigator

Member
Dec 3, 2011
504
blackout51 said:
Yeah that's what I was using, I hammered as hard as I could on that thing for like 3 hours before it finally popped out. I have no idea why it was in there so tight

I dropped the oil skid and used a piece of 2X2 that had a taper cut on the end. It fit well and worked to pry as well as something you could hit hard. I also felt better about using wood than metal.
 

blackout51

Original poster
Member
Oct 18, 2012
157
Well now I have a whole new problem...I just found a small hole on my brand new boot on the axle I just installed...is there a kit or do I have to remove the whole axle again
 

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