H2 bend tie rod

[Sprung Monkey]

just took delivery of the 07 H2 the left outer tie rod middle piece is bent. left wheel is straight right wheel is turned to the right. steering wheel is straight. 240K miles appears all original.



1.Should I reuse the outer piece an just replace the bent rod? Apparently the rod is built into the inner piece.

2.or just check for excessive play at outer joint then decide?

More Information for MEVOTECH GES3609

3.seams like I’ll have to have both front wheels off ground and push the right wheel straight to match the left? Then install tie rod?

4.size of socket to remove the outer piece?

5.size of wrench to remove inner?I think I have a large pipe wrench like plumbers use.

6.if I feel excessive play in any of the left side joints would it be a good idea to replace same stuff on right side?

Not sure if I’m gonna like the H2 so I’m minimizing on parts.

Hows this part look?

More Information for SKP SES3488

I’ve never swapped any front end parts so Thanks for advice

 

[TollKeeper]

Since that inner boot is torn, your going to have to replace the entire inner tie rod end. And while your there, just replace the outer.

That rod that is bent, is part of the inner tie rod. The reason you want to replace the outer tie rod is because you dont know how long its been driven in this position, putting the tie rod in a unknown bind, with unknown damage.

Theres a special tool that takes off the inner tie rod. I --think-- it can be rented from your local parts store. But I am not sure. Its either a 18 or 21mm for the outer tie rod end top nut, and it should just be able to be popped out with a hammer since you are replacing it anyways.

Then you just do your best to eyeball it, then send it in for an alignment... Where they will undoubtedly find more problems.

 

[Mooseman]

Repeat after me...

I will not buy Mevojunk, I will not buy Mevojunk, I will not buy Mevojunk. And that's their service grade, which is their cheapest of their cheap junk. Heck even their TTX line is junk.

I just tried Dorman and seem OK to me and are reasonably priced on RA however I do not have any long term results from the outer tie rod I have installed. Hell, their HD inner is just a couple of bucks more than their premium.

2007 HUMMER H2 6.0L V8 Tie Rod End | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Repeat after me...

I will not buy Mevojunk, I will not buy Mevojunk, I will not buy Mevojunk. And that's their service grade, which is their cheapest of their cheap junk. Heck even their TTX line is junk.

I just tried Dorman and seem OK to me and are reasonably priced on RA however I do not have any long term results from the outer tie rod I have installed. Hell, their HD inner is just a couple of bucks more than their premium.

2007 HUMMER H2 6.0L V8 Tie Rod End | RockAuto

RockAuto ships auto parts and body parts from over 300 manufacturers to customers' doors worldwide, all at warehouse prices. Easy to use parts catalog.

www.rockauto.com

dam I was gonna go for the $5. inner tie rod.

I initially picked the mevojunk bc I see the red heart next to it, I thought that meant ppl like it.

hows this look

More Information for DORMAN T3488RD

not sure if I'm gonna like this big pig. first impressions of up the driveway I'd rather have a 97x.thanks

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Since that inner boot is torn, your going to have to replace the entire inner tie rod end. And while your there, just replace the outer.

That rod that is bent, is part of the inner tie rod. The reason you want to replace the outer tie rod is because you dont know how long its been driven in this position, putting the tie rod in a unknown bind, with unknown damage.

Theres a special tool that takes off the inner tie rod. I --think-- it can be rented from your local parts store. But I am not sure. Its either a 18 or 21mm for the outer tie rod end top nut, and it should just be able to be popped out with a hammer since you are replacing it anyways.

Then you just do your best to eyeball it, then send it in for an alignment... Where they will undoubtedly find more problems.

I don't think the boot is torn it's just pulled off the rod, I'll take a close look tomorrow.
there's no way this H2 was driven after the bent rod, it's kindof hard to steer w/ one wheel.
I don't think I need the special tool mite be able to use a large wrench maybe the big pipe wrench I have.
hopefully the outer chasle nut is 18 or 21 I have these in short ones.
the interia is flithy it's like it has never been cleaned once disscussing.
I think I'll need bigger jack stands. my 2 ton (each) are like 17".

I have a 3ton floor jack not sure if I can jack on K-memeber not sure where it is under the skid plate.
will report back w/ progress.

thanks

 

[Mooseman]

The 💖 just means a lot of people buy them probably because it's cheap. I have personal experience with them.

A 6L H2, yeah, it's gonna be a pig.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Since that inner boot is torn, your going to have to replace the entire inner tie rod end. And while your there, just replace the outer.

That rod that is bent, is part of the inner tie rod. The reason you want to replace the outer tie rod is because you dont know how long its been driven in this position, putting the tie rod in a unknown bind, with unknown damage.

Theres a special tool that takes off the inner tie rod. I --think-- it can be rented from your local parts store. But I am not sure. Its either a 18 or 21mm for the outer tie rod end top nut, and it should just be able to be popped out with a hammer since you are replacing it anyways.

Then you just do your best to eyeball it, then send it in for an alignment... Where they will undoubtedly find more problems.

Tollkeeper I think your correct (as usale) about having to use the tool, to remove & tighten the inner piece. right again the outer is 21mm deep well which I have.

So this means I’ll need to slide the rubber boot completely off the rod.

Do these tie rods usually come w/ this inner rubber boot off rod? An after installed slide boot back on ? I hope they supply a hose clamp or zip tie for this inner boot?

thanks Mooseman for talking me out of that junk I had picked.
I hope the detriot axel makes a decent tie rod. $35. at amazon for both sides.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M646IHO?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I’ll have to cut the bent rod in order to slide on the tool. So I plan loosen outer piece while still attached, then cut w/ grinder.


Will blue locktite on inner & outer pieces be good enough?
I'm down to one grease gun plan to use the green grease?https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y0788O/?tag=gmtnation-20
Thanks for advice.

 

[TollKeeper]

The reason the Tie Rods are so cheap is because they are the same part that you find on a Tahoe, Yukon, and Escalade. Same car believe it or not. Make sure not to damage that inner boot, as you will need it for the new one. Then it has a special clamp that ties it to the rack and pinion.

 

[Mooseman]

I hope the detriot axel makes a decent tie rod. $35. at amazon for both sides.

No personal experience but I have heard mixed results with them, mostly the hubs aren't that good. Suspect that their stuff is Chinese junk. There are a couple of bad reviews saying they wore prematurely or were defective out of the box.

I'd use red loctite. That's what came with my ACDelco inners for the TB. If you're afraid they might not come off in the future, orange would be good. Holds like red, comes off like blue.

I don't know that grease. The Amazon page says it's a high return item, probably because they're the small 3oz tubes. A very good grease is Lucas' red synthetic. I use it on everything.

 

[TollKeeper]

I have had good luck with their hubs.. But not their ball joints.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

I was able to cut rod an remove the inner an outer. The inner was a major pita.

I couldn’t get the special tools wrench bit 1 7/16" to hold the nut I believe I need a metric equizalent of 1 6/16". Both the wrench an the nut are thin an wrench kept slipping off. hopefully the SAE wrench bit will fit the new TR.

Went to home depot got a 12” cresent had to beat on the cresent w/ a 3’ 4x4 dam no room for a cheater pipe, I need taller jack stands. The sway bar obstructs turning wrench.



Will get the red loctite.



Still confused on the rubber boot like will the rod come bootless then after tightening the inner then install rubber boot? All this in order to slide the tool over inners joint?

w/ the cresent the boot can be on in order to try tool again.



Mooseman is this the grease you recommend?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJ3J221/?tag=gmtnation-20

I decided to switch to green grease a lot referr to it as white grease for my new trailer hubs or other new un greased stuff.



I get confused on grease especially adding grease to parts where I don’t know what’s already in there.

I have the small mini type grease gun.

Thanks Guys for advice certainly don’t want a tie rod coming off cruising on expressway.

Like if one side did come off I’d still have steering w/ one wheel correct?

edit: the wheel speed sensor's wire is cut I believe the sensor is broken in half. is this sensor just for ABS brakes an a none essential part?


edit2: how many OZ of grease in each end of rod? like can I pump in to much and blow out the seals? like the outer I can observe it ballon out, can't see inner.
maybe I shouldn't use the green grease there maybe red grease allready in the rack?

 

[TollKeeper]

Still confused on the rubber boot like will the rod come bootless then after tightening the inner then install rubber boot? All this in order to slide the tool over inners joint?

That is correct. Remove boot, slide in tool to remove tie rod, install new tie rod, grease tie rod, install boot, Zip tie boot firmly down to shaft and housing to help keep the grease in, and contaminants out.

 

[Mooseman]

Yes, that is the grease I use. I just pump until I see the boot start to swell. I don't keep going until.it comes out of the relief.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Yes, that is the grease I use. I just pump until I see the boot start to swell. I don't keep going until.it comes out of the relief.

when I replace my 2nd grease gun I'll be using the red tackie thanks for grease tip, the inner tie rod was greased. there is a zerk fitting on the end of rack & pinoin right where I screwed in the inner haven't greased it just using what came w/ TR.

Installed new inner /outer tie rod.pumped grease untill it came out opposite end.

Didn’t even try the special tool the 12” cresent worked fine.

Cheaped out an used harbor freight red imitation locktite on inner an outer.

Thought the green grease would be good sense it’s high heat right next to brakes.

The inners rubber boot seamed to click on the rack/pinion no clamp used same as

Removed tie rod. Both inner an outer didn’t have play in their joints so I left the other side.

Not sure if the inner part of the outer boot should be squessed down w/ wheels turn left?see image



I think the 4 wheel drive isn’t electrically switching. Like I start at 4 high top switch

Then while in neutral of transmission press 4 high locked or 4Low locked switches just blink never switch from 4high.



From my search it could be a encoder motor attached to your transfer case.

The problem is caused by the transfer case's encoder motor contacts which becomes corroded internally.



All this being said an me not off roading yet. Can I just never use 4high locked or 4low locked. An leave

Alltime 4x4 in 4 high an not ruin anything?

This is my 1st real 4 wheel drive. Which I’m finding out is different than AWD.Thanks for advice

 

[TollKeeper]

Compare the inner tie rod boot on the passenger side to the drivers. If there is a clamp, it will need a clamp.

 

[Mooseman]

You can certainly leave it in 2wd as long as it's not actually in 4x4, otherwise it will bind on solid road surface. If it crop hops when you make a sharp turn on a solid surface, it's still in 4x4.

However, this is getting off-topic. If you need help with the 4x4, you should start a new thread in the appropriate section.

 

[TollKeeper]

Not on the H2, depending on the transfer case.

On your dash controller, do you have a dedicated 2wd button? If not, its the same transfer case thats also installed in its Cadillac Escalade/GMC Yukon Denali cousin, for full time AWD, selectable 4wd and low range.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

the hummer h2 is always 4 wheel drive no option for 2 wheel drive

mentioned this quickly bc I don't want to damage the rest of the 4x4 driveline. expect multiple threads on this H2 stuff not working correctly.

have only driven into driveway (w/ bent TR) and into back yard.


when I get the OBD2 diaganoistic interface will it give a code if the encoder motor is rotton?
Thanks Guys for advice.

 

[TollKeeper]

I know it will generate a code, but whether or not a regular OBD code reader will read it, I dont know.

 

[Mooseman]

If you use a Bluetooth Elm327 and an app like Chevrosys, it will.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

I know it will generate a code, but whether or not a regular OBD code reader will read it, I dont know.

not sure if the H2 has a wheel speed sensor or is a ABS sensor the same thing?
I believe the ABS sensors module is clipped to the top of the outside of upper control arm?
this sensors wire is cut can it be spliced back together? thanks tollkeeper

 

[Sprung Monkey]

If you use a Bluetooth Elm327 and an app like Chevrosys, it will.

haven't ordered the veepeak yet. was planning on downloading the pro torque, as you suggested will PT read this sensor. so Chevrosys. would be a better app.?
apparently ppl just remove and clean the ABS sensor then test w/ multimeter by spinning wheel an looking for 300millie VoltsAC.

I'd like to splice this cut wire if possible.

the ABS pump on my car hasn't worked in over 15 years has zero effect on the brakes functioning.I could send my pump off an have it rebuilt for a couple hundred bucks just haven't got around to it. thanks Mooseman

 

[TollKeeper]

Wheel Speed Sensor and ABS Sensor are the same thing.

Do not splice it.. Replace it. The wires are very tiny, and splicing will cause a MiliOhm drop, and will, or will eventually, cause problems

 

[Sprung Monkey]

w/ 200K miles the pump is probaly ruined also will a ruined or dssconnected sensor effect how the vehicle runs?
hows this look some of the sensors like doorman don't even include the reculor wheels sensor?

2007 Hummer H2 Front Left ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Connector - SKP $8.97 | Partsgeek.com

Discount auto parts and accessories catalog for all foreign and import cars and trucks. Low Prices, Quality, Service and Free shipping.

www.partsgeek.com

 

[TollKeeper]

The reluctor wheel, or what I call a tone ring, is built into the hub, and bearing.

If you think theres a problem with the hub, a new hub will usually come with a new sensor and wire. I know they do for the GMT360. I have many of those wires sitting on my shelf.

 

[TollKeeper]

I just confirmed that a new hub bearing will come with the Tone Ring, and sensor/wire.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

thats very nice of GM to include the sensor w/ their hub, or are they padding their bill since there separate parts.the brakes will continue to work w/ or w/out this sensor correct? thanks tollkeeper
even though I thought the TB was resolved bc the throttle works,I just updated the throttle body thread on the spliced wires.

 

[TollKeeper]

The truck will operate normally, you just wont have ABS, traction control, or stabilitrak.

And the Auto 4wd will not work.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

And the Auto 4wd will not work.

so the cut abs wheel sensor wire will interfer w/ the 4x4 hi lock an low lock?
is this why when I shift to either hi/low lock she won't shift? both hi/low just blink.
I was thinking the encoder motor on the transfer case was failing or inside was dirty.

thanks Tollkeeper

 

[TollKeeper]

so the cut abs wheel sensor wire will interfer w/ the 4x4 hi lock an low lock?
is this why when I shift to either hi/low lock she won't shift? both hi/low just blink.
I was thinking the encoder motor on the transfer case was failing or inside was dirty.

thanks Tollkeeper

The locked side of the 4x4 system should work, as thats a mechanical connection.

The Auto 4wd will not work, as thats a electrical connection.

 

[Mooseman]

The auto 4wd should work as the sensors are in the transfer case (one on the rear output and one on the front output). When it detects a rear wheel speed spin, it shifts into 4wd. This is independent of the ABS wheel sensors.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

so since she wont shift to either hi/low locked. which I believe are for only low speed in mud, never on expressway.
doe's it sound like the encoder motor on the transfer case was failing or inside was dirty?
even w/ the hi/low not locking the 4 wheel drive still works correct bc it's always 4x4 on correct.
like if a front diff. was rotton the H2 wouldn't move on just the rear correct.
Mooseman when you say "When it detects a rear wheel speed spin, it shifts into 4wd." when this happens will I see the either hi or low locked w/ it's light on?
like are there 2 ways to lock either hi/low me pressing the button bc I just drove into mud or the ECM detects wheels spin?
pls excuse my ignorance I've never had a 4x4. thanks Guys for advice.

 

[Mooseman]

Mooseman when you say "When it detects a rear wheel speed spin, it shifts into 4wd." when this happens will I see the either hi or low locked w/ it's light on?

It would be in "auto" and you not get any indication except for the lurch from the extra traction from the front wheels. If it's in 2hi, you'll get nothing. if it's in 4hi or 4lo, it will already be locked and you will get front wheel traction.

We have a troubleshooting chart for problems with the transfer case for gmt360/370, which should be similar to yours.

4WD not working? Step inside.

There seems to be quite a lot of mystery to newer folks when their 4x4 functions stop working. Since crappy weather season is upon us a lot of people are trying their 4WD functions for the first time this year... and discovering all isn't as it should be. Here's my attempt at a troubleshooting...

gmtnation.com

 

[Sprung Monkey]

It would be in "auto" and you not get any indication except for the lurch from the extra traction from the front wheels. If it's in 2hi, you'll get nothing. if it's in 4hi or 4lo, it will already be locked and you will get front wheel traction.

We have a troubleshooting chart for problems with the transfer case for gmt360/370, which should be similar to yours.

4WD not working? Step inside.

There seems to be quite a lot of mystery to newer folks when their 4x4 functions stop working. Since crappy weather season is upon us a lot of people are trying their 4WD functions for the first time this year... and discovering all isn't as it should be. Here's my attempt at a troubleshooting...

gmtnation.com

I wish I did more research on the H2. for some reason I thought there would be a 4wheel drive gear selector for 4wheel drive an hi4/low4 on the floor.



I believe the H2 is all time 4wheel drive. There is no auto 4x4 or 2 wheel rear wheel drive.

I think I bought the wronge tow vehicle 07Hummer H2 it's all time 4wheel drive .for my 3500LB boat, this is basicely street driven only time I forsee needeing 4wheel drive is up a slippery boat ramp.

there are a few real steep ramps that I've used in the past w/ a much liter vessel. maybe after I gain confidence in retrievals I will change my current opinion of the H2.

the H2 has only 4 high which is on all the time, I think this is why H2s use so much fuel. I do have a option for 4hi an 4low locking I believe that for when pulling a trailer though extra slippey roads I think that 4wheel low locked doubles the torque thats why you don't cruise on expressway in locked.

I think I need another option for 2 wheel drive. thanks.

I just happened onto this video he had the exact same problem 4hi/4low locking maufunctioning not shifting his wheel speed sensor was cut.

reading the comments this wheel speed sensor wire isn't attached to a arm well an is commonly cut.

4x4 4WD AWD not engaging in SUV Truck, flashes yellow light CEL Code C0035​

I'm anxious to get the Veepeak an check codes.

​

 

[Mooseman]

Without any research, I think it has the same part-time 4wd system as the Saab 9-7x. Front wheels always locked to the diff and when rear wheel slip is detected, an encoder motor shifts the transfer case into 4hi and then slowly disengages once slip stops. So from your description of the symptoms, either the encoder motor is bad or a shaft in the front that's stripped, like the intermediate shaft in the Saab.

Would be H2 be a good tow vehicle? I don't really know, but if the AWD system were to work as designed, it would pull you up a slippery ramp but the jolt from the front wheels engaging suddenly on a fairly solid surface could cause some damage, including that shaft. That's why I used to call this system the "slip/bang" system.

 

[Sprung Monkey]

Without any research, I think it has the same part-time 4wd system as the Saab 9-7x. Front wheels always locked to the diff and when rear wheel slip is detected, an encoder motor shifts the transfer case into 4hi and then slowly disengages once slip stops. So from your description of the symptoms, either the encoder motor is bad or a shaft in the front that's stripped, like the intermediate shaft in the Saab.

Would be H2 be a good tow vehicle? I don't really know, but if the AWD system were to work as designed, it would pull you up a slippery ramp but the jolt from the front wheels engaging suddenly on a fairly solid surface could cause some damage, including that shaft. That's why I used to call this system the "slip/bang" system.

sounds like this wheel speed sensor is the brains of these 4x4 an AWD sys. I will check to see if the 97x an H2 share the same PN for this wheel speed sensor, Transfer case, encoder motor. hopefully I have the spare parts the H2 mite need

so is true or false that 4low locked doubles the torque? thanks Mooseman

 

[Mooseman]

so is true or false that 4low locked doubles the torque? thanks Mooseman

Yes by lower gearing. This is to allow slow rock crawling and to get out of deep mud.