Hi all, 2007 TB 4.2L.
The folks from Trailvoy sent me this way, and have done some searches on here and think things are getting closer.
So here are the details:
Bought a 2007 with blown motor (guy I bought it from had started the tear down then gave up), bought an 06 engine from the wreckers, got through the remove and replace and everything is bolted up.
Went for the initial start up and turns out the PCM 15A fuse was blown, so I replaced that and now it cranks at least. Trying out the remote door locks blew it again. That seems strange, headlights on one side are dimmer than the other, but might just be bulbs.
But it is cranking and wont start. I can smell fuel in the exhaust, and pulled a couple plugs and they are wet, so its definitely getting fuel.
Pulled two coils and there is lots of spark. So not sure why it wont start. No security light is on either, and the fuel pump is running. Spark was slower than I expected at least a full second between same-coil sparks while cranking.
There is a very weak sign of almost firing once every two seconds, but nothing close to almost starting.
I have a OBDII reader, and its doesnt seem to be getting a signal from the PCM , when I hook it up to the port under the steering column. That is a bit worrysome.
I understand they changed the reluctors in the 2008 model. Mine was manufactured in march of 2007, and shows as a 2007 model when running the VIN. So not sure that is the issue, but sure seems like a timing thing.
Anyone have any idea if it was a mid year change on the reluctor? Anything I should double check before losing it? Getting fuel and spark, so not sure what else could be wrong.
Apparently Lingenfelter makes a adapter that gets a 24 tooth signal to the computer even with a 58 bit reluctor wheel, but they dont have one listed for the I6. I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say. Hoping its something simpler than that, but out of ideas.
The gremlins in the lights and the blown PCM fuse when doorlocks triggered make me wonder.
That said the wiring harness connectors on the donor engine exactly fit the stock harness with the exception of the alternator, the donor alternator is a 3 pin connector, while the original was a two pin. No biggie, I'll just put the original alternator back in. Anyone know if the on the 58 tooth reluctor if the wiring harness was significantly different? that might answer the question right there. Part numbers on the ignition coils are the same between donor and stock as well.
So many questions. I am not looking forward to pulling this engine all over again.
The folks from Trailvoy sent me this way, and have done some searches on here and think things are getting closer.
So here are the details:
Bought a 2007 with blown motor (guy I bought it from had started the tear down then gave up), bought an 06 engine from the wreckers, got through the remove and replace and everything is bolted up.
Went for the initial start up and turns out the PCM 15A fuse was blown, so I replaced that and now it cranks at least. Trying out the remote door locks blew it again. That seems strange, headlights on one side are dimmer than the other, but might just be bulbs.
But it is cranking and wont start. I can smell fuel in the exhaust, and pulled a couple plugs and they are wet, so its definitely getting fuel.
Pulled two coils and there is lots of spark. So not sure why it wont start. No security light is on either, and the fuel pump is running. Spark was slower than I expected at least a full second between same-coil sparks while cranking.
There is a very weak sign of almost firing once every two seconds, but nothing close to almost starting.
I have a OBDII reader, and its doesnt seem to be getting a signal from the PCM , when I hook it up to the port under the steering column. That is a bit worrysome.
I understand they changed the reluctors in the 2008 model. Mine was manufactured in march of 2007, and shows as a 2007 model when running the VIN. So not sure that is the issue, but sure seems like a timing thing.
Anyone have any idea if it was a mid year change on the reluctor? Anything I should double check before losing it? Getting fuel and spark, so not sure what else could be wrong.
Apparently Lingenfelter makes a adapter that gets a 24 tooth signal to the computer even with a 58 bit reluctor wheel, but they dont have one listed for the I6. I'll call them tomorrow and see what they say. Hoping its something simpler than that, but out of ideas.
The gremlins in the lights and the blown PCM fuse when doorlocks triggered make me wonder.
That said the wiring harness connectors on the donor engine exactly fit the stock harness with the exception of the alternator, the donor alternator is a 3 pin connector, while the original was a two pin. No biggie, I'll just put the original alternator back in. Anyone know if the on the 58 tooth reluctor if the wiring harness was significantly different? that might answer the question right there. Part numbers on the ignition coils are the same between donor and stock as well.
So many questions. I am not looking forward to pulling this engine all over again.