DRL Killer help....

gippy1968

Original poster
Member
Mar 20, 2012
26
Hi all,

I've searced but didnt find what Im looking for. Is there a writeup to assist a total rookie how to make and easily install a DRL Killer to save my HIDs?
I have an 08 TB LT.
Thanks in advance!

G
 

ghenny440

Member
Dec 14, 2011
368
im clifforhenline from "the site we dont say its name here"! lmfao

(DISCLAIMER!!!! this is done at your own risk, i am not responsible for damages you may cause)

its pretty simple actually you just need a few things(pretty much everything is at local parts store)

1. relay 30/40 amp relay (5pin)
2. 4 pieces of wire about 4-6 inches in length
3.4 insulated female spade connectors(blue medium sized)
4. 1 ring terminal
5.2 butt connectors(blue medium sized)
6. some electrical tape
7. razor
8. wire strippers
9. wire crimpers
and access to the rear fuse box(if its an xl/ext that seat needs to be removed)

1. first flip or remove seat(depending on model)
2. strip all 4 pieces of wire(both ends of each about a half inch back)
3. on one end of all 4 wires put a female spade connector
4. on 2 of the wires place a butt connector
5. on the 3rd wire place the ring terminal(4th wire stays bare on one end)
6. with access to the rear fuse box first remove the grey plug and locate pin A5 pink with white wire
cut this wire strip both sides of wire about half inch place one of the premade wires with a butt connectors on each end of these wires(heres the important part)
the end coming from the BCM(PLUG SIDE OF WIRE) goes to pin 87(NOT 87a) on relay the other side goes to pin 30 on relay
7. now for the wire with the ring terminal, remove the nut for the POSITIVE CONNECTION AT THE REAR FUSE BOX, plug this wire into pin 86 on the relay, then conect to
battery terminal and replace nut, now replace the grey plug into the BCM
8. remove the tan plug on the BCM locate pin E7(solid pink wire) with a razor cut about an inch of insulation(dont cut this wire) slip the razor in between the strands of
wire and seperate the strands(about half of the strands on each side of the hole your making) to create a small holeslip the last wire through the hole twist around
the wire nice and tight now wrap some electrical tape around the connection nice and tight and connect to pin 85 on the relay

now is where you need to make the choice of whether or not you want quad beams
if so proceed to the next step, if not replace the tan plug into the BCM and go to step 12
9. locate pins E4 yellow, and F10 green
10. cut F10 green wire, tape the side coming from the plug(BCM side) strip the other side about an inch back,
11. locate pin E4 yellow wire, strip about an inch of insulation with your razor, spread the wire strands to create a hole, insert the stripped side of F10 twist tightly around
the wire and put some electrical tape on the connection
12. replace the tan plug into the BCM, shut all doors, and go the front of the truck and hit the UNLOCK button on the remote, a few thing happen
now, 1. the parking lights DO flash
2. the headlights NO LONGER come on(saving the HID's)
13. THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR QUAD BEAM INSTALLERS, NO NEED TO DO IF YOU DIDNT DO IT, start the truck and push the turnsignal stick forward turning on high
beams get out and go to the front of the truck to confirm highs and lows are both on, if so shut them off, turn off the truck, replace the fuse box cover
and replace seat(if its an xl/ext) ENJOY!!:thumbsup:
 

gippy1968

Original poster
Member
Mar 20, 2012
26
ghenny440 said:
im clifforhenline from "the site we dont say its name here"! lmfao

(DISCLAIMER!!!! this is done at your own risk, i am not responsible for damages you may cause)

its pretty simple actually you just need a few things(pretty much everything is at local parts store)

1. relay 30/40 amp relay (5pin)
2. 4 pieces of wire about 4-6 inches in length
3.4 insulated female spade connectors(blue medium sized)
4. 1 ring terminal
5.2 butt connectors(blue medium sized)
6. some electrical tape
7. razor
8. wire strippers
9. wire crimpers
and access to the rear fuse box(if its an xl/ext that seat needs to be removed)

1. first flip or remove seat(depending on model)
2. strip all 4 pieces of wire(both ends of each about a half inch back)
3. on one end of all 4 wires put a female spade connector
4. on 2 of the wires place a butt connector
5. on the 3rd wire place the ring terminal(4th wire stays bare on one end)
6. with access to the rear fuse box first remove the grey plug and locate pin A5 pink with white wire
cut this wire strip both sides of wire about half inch place one of the premade wires with a butt connectors on each end of these wires(heres the important part)
the end coming from the BCM(PLUG SIDE OF WIRE) goes to pin 87(NOT 87a) on relay the other side goes to pin 30 on relay
7. now for the wire with the ring terminal, remove the nut for the POSITIVE CONNECTION AT THE REAR FUSE BOX, plug this wire into pin 86 on the relay, then conect to
battery terminal and replace nut, now replace the grey plug into the BCM
8. remove the tan plug on the BCM locate pin E7(solid pink wire) with a razor cut about an inch of insulation(dont cut this wire) slip the razor in between the strands of
wire and seperate the strands(about half of the strands on each side of the hole your making) to create a small holeslip the last wire through the hole twist around
the wire nice and tight now wrap some electrical tape around the connection nice and tight and connect to pin 85 on the relay

now is where you need to make the choice of whether or not you want quad beams
if so proceed to the next step, if not replace the tan plug into the BCM and go to step 12
9. locate pins E4 yellow, and F10 green
10. cut F10 green wire, tape the side coming from the plug(BCM side) strip the other side about an inch back,
11. locate pin E4 yellow wire, strip about an inch of insulation with your razor, spread the wire strands to create a hole, insert the stripped side of F10 twist tightly around
the wire and put some electrical tape on the connection
12. replace the tan plug into the BCM, shut all doors, and go the front of the truck and hit the UNLOCK button on the remote, a few thing happen
now, 1. the parking lights DO flash
2. the headlights NO LONGER come on(saving the HID's)
13. THIS STEP IS ONLY FOR QUAD BEAM INSTALLERS, NO NEED TO DO IF YOU DIDNT DO IT, start the truck and push the turnsignal stick forward turning on high
beams get out and go to the front of the truck to confirm highs and lows are both on, if so shut them off, turn off the truck, replace the fuse box cover
and replace seat(if its an xl/ext) ENJOY!!:thumbsup:

Thanks!!!! Im gonna give it a try (pray for me) :smile:!
 

ghenny440

Member
Dec 14, 2011
368
Lol no praying necessary! If you follow this right its gonna be done correct, and your very welcome, i just helped a member yesterday over the phone, had him set it up like this and had him all fixed and done in less than 5 mins
 

gippy1968

Original poster
Member
Mar 20, 2012
26
Thanks again. Can I get all the supplies at Pep Boys? What kind of wire should I ask for? Do I need to disconnect the battery? Sorry for the questions - Im kinda nerveous but Im gonna do it!

I assume you helped the guy from IN with the HVAC issues yesterday?

Thanks again

G!
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
I disconnected my battery for my DRL killer install.. your working on the BCM... I wouldn't want power running to that...

And yes, pep boys should suffice for all parts..
 

ghenny440

Member
Dec 14, 2011
368
YES DEFFINATELY CUT THE POWER TO THE BAT, and yeah that was me helpin them, unfortunately they used my old schematic(copy and paste i did for someone else i believe) that apperently was giving some problems and others were fine, so i moved the power directly to the junction that took care of all probs, and you wanna use roughly a 16 awg wire.
 

gippy1968

Original poster
Member
Mar 20, 2012
26
silvernclean said:
Yup that was me. Haha. Diconnect power for sure!!

Glad you got the HVAC back and all is well! I was following your post and felt your frustration ooozing from my screen!
 

gippy1968

Original poster
Member
Mar 20, 2012
26
ghenny440 said:
YES DEFFINATELY CUT THE POWER TO THE BAT, and yeah that was me helpin them, unfortunately they used my old schematic(copy and paste i did for someone else i believe) that apperently was giving some problems and others were fine, so i moved the power directly to the junction that took care of all probs, and you wanna use roughly a 16 awg wire.

Thanks! Im gonna do it next weekand will post results.
 

Jeenyus

Member
Jan 7, 2012
12
I finally mustered the courage to cut into the bcm tonight and it turned out great!

The only thing I fear is the relay getting warm... mine got warm after a ten minute drive but not not hot to touch.

my wife uses the envoy to cart the babies around so I dont want it to catch fire..


has anyone else felt the relay after driving?
 

Boricua SS

Member
Nov 20, 2011
3,080
Ohio
Jeenyus said:
has anyone else felt the relay after driving?

never thought to feel mine after operation... its been in my truck for almost 2 years now... so i would imagine things are fine :rotfl:

my load resistors for my turn signal led's get rather warm and were alarming to me at first... but almost 6 months of operation, and nothing has melted... so i think things are fine and i wouldnt worry about it...
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,396
Posts
638,821
Members
18,610
Latest member
Amri

Members Online