Think about it like this....voltage only goes through 16 and 34 when the switch is closed (pedal pushed). Once the pedal is released, the circuit is open again. The process repeats every time the pedal is pushed. So, with a crapping out switch, you could push/hold the pedal one time and have proper voltage through those fuses, the next push/hold you might not have anything. Or, because it's intermittent, it might be 50 pushes later. When the CHMSL flickers and you have no l/r bulbs, I'd want to see what the voltage is at pin A of the switch. I suspect that it wouldn't be 12v.
If you do go that route, it is 1000x easier to get that reading at the white wire at the flasher. The flasher is mounted to the plastic shield under the drivers side of the dash. If you look at the switch in the diagram, you'll see that after pin A, the circuit branches to the flasher as well as the rear fuse block.