CPAS instructions
- Thread starter Rubberman
- Start date
How to: Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Cleaning - Chevy TrailBlazer, TrailBlazer SS and GMC Envoy Forum
(yes, sometimes we refer back to the OS)
edit: oops, here's the "local" one.
http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-clean-...osition-actuator-solenoid-picture-heavy-2263/
(yes, sometimes we refer back to the OS)
edit: oops, here's the "local" one.
http://gmtnation.com/f93/how-clean-...osition-actuator-solenoid-picture-heavy-2263/
Well i pulled the cpas and it looked good. Not really dirty like the others i seen posted here. The screens were still there and just a little grit on the sscreens. I went ahead and cleaned it anyway. There was a little oil in the electrical connector and i cleaned that too. I guess i will use that Mystery Oil to see if that works.
Rubberman said:
If you got oil in the connector then its broken and you need a new one. Oil doesn't conduct electricity. Dont screw around with not changing the cpas. Bad things can happen to valves.
and do not get an aftermarket cpas...I just made that mistake, and had to go out and buy one from the dealer a couple weeks later.
tbuckalew14 said:
Here is my two cents about this. I will never go to a dealer for parts unless shopping for some really rare item that I am unable to find on the Internet. For instance when trying to find an unpopular color of GM touchup paint that nobody lists due to low demand.
When shopping for parts for your vehicle there are 5 shopping places on the Internet that I recommend you check first. They are:
1. Amazon.com
2. Google Shopping
3. eBay
4. GMPartdirect.com
5. GMPartsEast.com
Usually more often than not Amazon has the lowest price for parts because vendors know it's the #1 marketplace and competition is fierce. So I go there first. Nothing there? Then I usually then head on over to Google Shopping and then GMPartseast.com. GMParts Direct usually has good prices especially if you are bundling a lot in your cart. But they get you for shipping. Ebay has become an expensive place to buy new parts lately. I suppose the revenue generating fees are to blame. It get's pasted on to us.
CaptainXL said:
I wasn't implying to buy from the dealer...just to avoid aftermarket. I went to the dealer because I needed the part immediately. Price wasn't too bad though. I think I paid around 55 bucks.
I do agree 100% to look online if it's something you can hold out for a few days on.
tbuckalew14 said:
OK, no problem. I was just venting my frustration at the money sucking dealers. $55 is about right. I got mine for $50 + shipping on the internet. You got a great deal. Price is probably coming down.
Ok i was gonna ask about buying Dorman part from RockAuto but i guess you answer that above. I'll scan amazon/gmpartsdirect/ebay for the part. Any one know the a/c delco part number for that?
UPDATE
Is Delphi a GM part? are 12602516 and 12615873 the correct part numbers?
UPDATE
Is Delphi a GM part? are 12602516 and 12615873 the correct part numbers?
One more thing that's good to know before installing a new CPAS.
Make sure to flush the engine before changing it. Putting a new CPAS in a neglected engine won't get you very far. Depending on how dirty the engine is you may need to flush it more than once. After changing it use 5w-30 and a quality filter such as the ACDelco PF61e
Make sure to flush the engine before changing it. Putting a new CPAS in a neglected engine won't get you very far. Depending on how dirty the engine is you may need to flush it more than once. After changing it use 5w-30 and a quality filter such as the ACDelco PF61e
Every since we bought this trailblazer which was at 28k miles, I have always used synthetic 5w30 and an ac Delco or wix filter. Always changed on time. I just put in some Mystery Oil.
I want some thoughts or comments on Mystery Oil. Im close to changing oil in the TB so i only dumped in 1 quart of MMO the other day. I have the CPAS coming today so should i wait a bit before installing? I didn't know if i should run 2 qts in the next oil change so it can be unclogged, cleaned out before installing the cpas. I can already tell some at early morning starup that it doesnt have a lot of clatter.
By adding the MMO to a full crankcase you now have an extra quart of oil in there. Not a great idea to overfill.
What you want to do is drain three quarts of oil which will put your level at 4 quarts. Then add 2 quarts of CRC Fast Motor Flush, K&W motor flush or Gunk High Mileage motor flush. They are basically kerosene so if you want go that route then just add Kerosene. Just make sure the engine is fully warmed up when draining those three quarts. The engine flush products work best with hot oil. Just follow directions on back of can for whichever product you get. Kerosene and MMO can be left in indefinitely so long as it's limited to 1/4 of the total oil fill. All it will do is thin the oil one notch down since kero is just a lightweight fuel oil. So if you have 4 quarts of 10W-30 and 1 quart of kerosene or MMO it will drop the effective weight of the oil down to roughly 5W-30.
But by flushing with two quarts you should drain and refill soon after idling the engine for about 15 minutes. One quart I wouldn't worry about keeping in the crankcase.
What you want to do is drain three quarts of oil which will put your level at 4 quarts. Then add 2 quarts of CRC Fast Motor Flush, K&W motor flush or Gunk High Mileage motor flush. They are basically kerosene so if you want go that route then just add Kerosene. Just make sure the engine is fully warmed up when draining those three quarts. The engine flush products work best with hot oil. Just follow directions on back of can for whichever product you get. Kerosene and MMO can be left in indefinitely so long as it's limited to 1/4 of the total oil fill. All it will do is thin the oil one notch down since kero is just a lightweight fuel oil. So if you have 4 quarts of 10W-30 and 1 quart of kerosene or MMO it will drop the effective weight of the oil down to roughly 5W-30.
But by flushing with two quarts you should drain and refill soon after idling the engine for about 15 minutes. One quart I wouldn't worry about keeping in the crankcase.
CaptainXL said:
I was probably a quart low anyway. Just a tad above the 'add oil' hash mark line.
So like you said above and let it run (without driving) for 5 mins to cleanse then do an oil change?
Rubberman said:
K&W is 5 minutes. All other flushes I think are 10-15 minutes wait time. Read the back of the can/bottle.
Some flushes recommend you keep the rpm's up, some say to keep it at idle.
Taking into consideration all of the preventative maintenance I have done to my vehicle, I would say regular oil flushes and the use of high quality fuel injector cleaners has helped my truck run in top shape. I've used Chevron Techron Concentrate and BG 44K. I had a bit of tappet noise before my last flush. But after that and using BG 44K I have not had even the slightest bit of ticking...even in 0 degree weather. Sounds sensational but it's true.