Counterfeit oil filter alert!

[Paul Bell]

That bogus cap came up in a discussion on a live audio forum I'm a member of-I operate a sound company here in NYC.

Any oil filter-even when new, will cause a pressure drop as the oil goes through the media. The bigger the filtering area is, the less drop there is. Plus the filter will last longer.

I suppose in a daily driver that uses decent oil and filters with proper oil change intervals, a short filter should suffice just fine.

 

[swede]

Don't know if you guys seen this, it's an old one but a lot of information

http://www.minimopar.net/oilfilters/index.html

Here's a newer one

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfilterstudy.html

 

[Mooseman]

Yeah, the info on the filter themselves is quite dated but the tests and other info is useful.

 

[Paul Bell]

That second link is very interesting. Boy that Fleetguard looks bad!

Some good looking builds there, way too many look like Fram filters with cardboard ends.

 

[paul2005tb]

BTW, here's a trick I use. I take apart old computer hard drives and take out the magnets. I use them on the filter to trap metal particles. They are super strong and they stay put.

can you please elaborate, do you simply drop the magnet into the center of the filter ?

 

[Sparky]

Goes on the outside of the filter, not inside.

 

[ddgm]

I'm surprised no one offered info on the Frantz oil filter. Used to see them advertised in automotive magazines back in the day. It used filter media that everyone has in their homes. I just googled it and by golly, looks like they are still in business.

 

[Mooseman]

Just spent a bunch of time reading and watching videos on this toilet paper filter and it looks good. My only concern is if you keep your oil for longer than recommended, would the additives in the oil be depleted or broken down? Some say it's fine, others not. Blackstone Labs say it's fine. Would certainly be worth it but maybe in a newer vehicle. And you would think you still need to change the regular spin on filter as it is a "pre-filter" for the larger stuff it captures.

Funny thing is that I found nothing on BITOG on this filter.

 

[Paul Bell]

I never liked the idea. Toilet paper is designed to break down to ever smaller partials. Pass.

 

[Mooseman]

So far, I haven't seen or read anything negative about it. And if it's been around that long, it's gotta be good, no?

 

[paul2005tb]

I just read reams and rolls on it. I am now convinced that the oil does not in any way break down the paper. But on the con side, the advertised "never-change-oil" claim is not true. Every time you change that TP filter material you are removing almost 1/2 a quart and placing 1/2 a quart of new oil in. If you do this every 3k miles then you are changing 1 quart every 6k miles. That means even if you never change your oil you are getting on average a total oil refill every 36k miles.

What motivates me is the information on what goes into manufacturing a FRAM oil filter, there really is not that much filter material in it. Speaking of the FRAM filter, it is clear to me that I should get better filter performance if I dont change my oil filter as often as I change my oil. The filter actually provides better filtration after use.

I might install one but I would still perform a full oil change every 8-10k miles if I do.

 

[Mooseman]

Come to think about it, it doesn't matter if an oil filter can remove all the contaminates and make it look like new, it breaks down with use and age. That additives lose their effectiveness and the oil loses its lubricatind properties. Only way to prove this would be to do an extended oil interval using this filter and having it analyzed.

 

[Mounce]

Indeed. Lubricity decays overtime, plus the average gelling and sludging of oil if over-neglected. It does indeed breakdown. Imo.

I personally stick to 3-4k mile intervals. I'm wasting oil? Wasting money? Sure. But I won't be buying a motor due to oil issues unless random failure. My maintenance will not be lacking and be a considerable contributing factor to failure. Again, just my opinion.

 

[mrrsm]

This is an interesting On Topic Read (OTR) that skips past anything anecdotal when delving into factual and scientific data and adds some good history on the subject of Oil Filtrations Designs and Materials. It also introduces some new filtration materials that I've never encountered before and which answers many questions contemporaneous to our needs and concerns:

http://www.synlube.com/oilfilters.htm

 

[Paul Bell]

Yes, it is an interesting article but ultimately it's an advertisement for the company's product.

 

[Sparky]

Indeed. Lubricity decays overtime, plus the average gelling and sludging of oil if over-neglected. It does indeed breakdown. Imo.

I personally stick to 3-4k mile intervals. I'm wasting oil? Wasting money? Sure. But I won't be buying a motor due to oil issues unless random failure. My maintenance will not be lacking and be a considerable contributing factor to failure. Again, just my opinion.

I followed the idiot light on my dashboard, which resulted in usually around 10-12k intervals (was 14k a couple of times), and my TB got to 215k without a fuss and still ran great. I did use Mobil 1 oil and filter though, if I used cheaper dino oil I'd probably do it more often for peace of mind.

 

[Paul Bell]

My change oil light comes on around 4,000 miles. But, I do an O&F change at 3,000.

I read an oil analysis report that showed Mobil1 European Formula is the slickest. What we see on the market as "high performance" oils really didn't fair all that well. Royal Purple, Redline, Brad, Lucas, etc.

I'm using the M1 Euro which is a 0-W40 and like $22 at Walmart, along with a Wix XP filter, the long version.

260,000 miles and the engine is just fine.

 

[Mooseman]

I can attest to.that oil as I use it in my sled. It has a higher zinc (ZDDP) content than most oils except possibly those designer oils (Royal Purple, Amzoil, etc.) Come to think of it, I should use it in my vehicles since I hoard a lot of it when it's on sale.

 

[paul2005tb]

Right now I change my oil every 4k to 5k and I add one of those small ZDDPlus bottles (from abcdirect) in with every oil change. ...

Im still considering the FRANTZ filter.

 

[mrrsm]

I like the idea of using the ZDDP add-in when possible; especially on BNEBs (Brand New Engine Builds) for the first 1,500 Miles or so.. But, if you should start getting any "Sketchy O2 Sensor Readings", it can sometimes be traced back to the ZDDP as the culprit, This is because this metallic stuff gradually gets deposited on them via Engine Oil getting burned under the normal operations inside of the Combustion Chambers.

Over time, the Zinc vapors will become deposited all over their O2 cages and innards as it passes through inside of the exhaust stream; making changes with their accuracy. This Metal Residue can also wind up affecting the CAT performance as well ...for the very same reason.