coolant leak

[JerryIrons]

Anybody ever change this part?

I'm going to stop by the dealer today to confirm the part number, but I think it's 1531230, looks like it's available from rockauto. Heater inlet tube fitting or something like that. EXT I6 2006 4wd btw. It screws right into the engine block/manifold on passenger side.


I'm concerned about actually being able to unscrew it successfully, it's so rusty and old. I guess there is only one way to find out. Coming in through the wheel well, I should have access. Maybe cut the metal pipe with a hacksaw blade and fit a socket over it. If I can get a wrench up in there maybe give it a gentle attempt that way first. The vehicle has a downward slant away from where it screws into engine, the pic is a little misleading. Getting that hose off of the other end should be a treat as well.

 

[Mooseman]

What I'd be afraid of is the steel fitting mangling the threads as it comes out. Looks like it has a thread sealer. After draining the coolant, I'd put some heat on the fitting from a propane torch, quench it, repeat and then attempt to remove it. You don't want to try and remove it while hot because the steel would be expanded and tighter on the aluminum threads. Could also spray some penetrating fluid but since those threads are essentially sealed, might not do much. Hopefully the threaded part hasn't rusted.

I'm surprised GM still has that part given how long since it was last produced. First I've heard of it rusting out and leaking like that.

 

[JerryIrons]

It was the right part, local dealer did not have one in stock but could get one in another city. I ordered it from rock auto anyway same part number and cheaper and faster to arrive. There is a superceded gm number of 19355770 for those interested.

Good idea on the heat and quench thing, will help break that bond between fitting and engine surface. And yes you are right about trying to unscrew after it has cooled. Normally in this situation you would put heat on the part this screws into, to expand the metal around the screws but since it's the engine or manifold that isn't going to work!

I may try the cold/freeze spray on the part itself to try and shrink it down a little. Never used that stuff before.

Unless I can slide some type of heater hose over that tube, and then clamp the hell out of it. Trying to slide hose over that rusty old pipe might just break it anyway. I've got a few days to overthink things here while I wait lol.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[mrrsm]

Just adding on a belated "Component Location Shot"... :>)

 

[JerryIrons]

So I ended up going with plan B, at least for now. If I screwed up those threads pulling that tube out, I'm pretty sure that would have been the end of the road for the trailblazer. Lot of heat near there as well that close to the exhaust, might have cooked things together. Then again, hook up the impact wrench and a socket and it might have just popped right off easy peasy. The nut size on the end of it is 24mm, at least on the replacement part which was a gm part.



The other end I moved out of the way, at one end it has one of those quick connect things that you just use your fingers to push in and pull apart. The metal tube end has a spring clamp, and I used a heat gun to warm up the rubber and a pick to break the seal and help it along.

3/4" heater hose used, about 3 1/2 inches long. Used some lubricant inside the entire hose, and the heat gun a few times to warm it up and push it on. Finished pushing it on with a socket over the end of the metal tube, was actually easier than I expected but still had to work at it. By the way, I use Mercury (Quicksilver) Powertune as the lubricant, learned that years ago from working on my mercruiser engine in my boat. Those rubber bellows have to be some of the hardest things ever to install, and the powertune is easily the slipperiest stuff I've ever touched, plus it evaporates. But I'm sure lots of lubricants will work. And yes 5 clamps lol.
Filled it up, ran it once so far to normal operating temp, so far no leaks but I will keep an eye on it. Also I have aluminum heat reflective tape on order, will be putting that on tomorrow.

The rust bucket lives another day!

 

[flyboy2610]

 

[Mooseman]

I think you could have put another clamp on there

 

[Reprise]

I think you could have put another clamp on there

If not a custom-width band clamp (like for exhaust).

 

[JerryIrons]

I think you could have put another clamp on there

I just couldn't stop myself!

I was watching one of the south main auto videos, and Eric working on an aluminum backing plate I think (subaru maybe?), and he was trying to unscrew a steel bolt out of an aluminum area, and what he did was put the torch on the aluminum to warm it up, and at the same time try and unscrew that bolt with a ratchet. Warmed up the aluminum enough to move the bolt, take away heat. Then just repeat the process. Not a ton of heat, and not a ton of force on that bolt either. So basically what you said to try.

Other video I watched had to do with honda oil pans, they are aluminum, and the drain bolt is steel. He said every now and then one comes in his shop with the threads removed like that, it happens often enough he actually purchased a Time-Sert kit just for those oil pans and showed how to use it.

 

[TollKeeper]

How long has the exhaust been leaking? Just another piece to the puzzle, all the exhaust heat, both from the exhaust manifold, plus the leaking exhaust.. I think I would have done the same thing you did.

 

[JerryIrons]

Quite a while, one of those problems on my list I have been meaning to get to but hasn't been big enough yet to top the list. It still passes inspection in NY state at the dealer, you just know they will try to find anything to make money.

Here is what I wrapped it with, amazon purchase like $21. Used some scissors to cut a piece pretty easy.

 

[mrrsm]

I'm in league with all of us who really do want this clever "Metal Bandage" to work and remain useful. But just in case the Rust-Corrosion continues to weaken the Steel Pipe from the inside->out... Check out THIS Link for any EZ Out Candidates that will be large enough to effectively Grab & Hold the remainder within the Hexagonal Base and provide enough Internal Grip to coax out the Rusty Remnants:

Amazon.com : plumbers ez out kit

Note that the "Lost Foam" Aluminum Internally Threaded Casting Boss in that location looks quite thick and robust in your Fix Photo (...and in mine, too) . So It would just be a matter of establishing enough Arm-Hand Access to gain a good enough mechanical advantage to tap in an E-Z Out and fit a Wrench on the Damned Thing to make it work there while unwinding the damaged pipe.

These *** images (Courtesy "RealFixesRealFast) provide a "One Over The World" View of just how cramped this area really is... even WITHOUT the Body of the SUV being in the way. In looking these photos over, it seems like removing the Exhaust Manifold Shield might provide a little more access to work in this confined space:



Source *** Trailblazer Body Removal for Engine R&R:

 

[JerryIrons]

Oh I agree it's not the ideal fix. It will continue to rust and over time will eventually leak again. How long is the roll of the dice. And the space inside there to work with is a big challenge, and was a primary reason why I went this route first.