My 02 tb has 122,000 on it I know I need right front uca. don't know if any other suspension work has been done before about 95k when I bought it should I do all uppers lowers and ball joint's opinions wanted
control arms
- Thread starter duckyweed
- Start date
I just have to mention all the other maintenance that needed doing at 100K, especially the transfer case every 50K. (I know I"m a broken record about this, but not everybody reads all my reminder posts...
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I assume it's your UCA bushings that make you need a new one. I'd do both at the same time, since they are only like $50 for aftermarket ones. You need to bend or cut fender sheet metal out of the way when you remove the bolts because the GM suspension designers weren't talking to the sheet metal designers in terms of "can anybody change this out inthe future after the assembly line plops the body onto the frame?"
The other items are "change them if they're loose". Ball joints are testable using a process that's well documented on Youtube and other auto maintenance sites. I don't think we have a comprehensive how-to article here. In general, if you're not slinging it about offroad, your LCAs are probably good. Most folks find looseness and noise coming out of the anti-sway bar end links, or inner or outer tie rod ends, or their hub bearings, before they need control arm renewal.
If you've had it aligned, the alignment tech would check all the parts for looseness, in hopes you'll pay that shop to replace the parts. What's your alignment situation?
)I assume it's your UCA bushings that make you need a new one. I'd do both at the same time, since they are only like $50 for aftermarket ones. You need to bend or cut fender sheet metal out of the way when you remove the bolts because the GM suspension designers weren't talking to the sheet metal designers in terms of "can anybody change this out inthe future after the assembly line plops the body onto the frame?"
The other items are "change them if they're loose". Ball joints are testable using a process that's well documented on Youtube and other auto maintenance sites. I don't think we have a comprehensive how-to article here. In general, if you're not slinging it about offroad, your LCAs are probably good. Most folks find looseness and noise coming out of the anti-sway bar end links, or inner or outer tie rod ends, or their hub bearings, before they need control arm renewal.
If you've had it aligned, the alignment tech would check all the parts for looseness, in hopes you'll pay that shop to replace the parts. What's your alignment situation?
I have done sway bar links twice the first time I used cheap ones the second I used moog they are holding up also did struts and hubs last year .I am going to do both uca's if I am going to order them through rock auto i was thinking should get upper ball joints also. don't go off road but how much life is to be expected from lowers.
btw I changed all fluids @ 100k I see on here how much you and preach about that so I take it seriously. The money for the fluids is a lot less than the diff's xfer case and tranny thanx Roadie
btw I changed all fluids @ 100k I see on here how much you and preach about that so I take it seriously. The money for the fluids is a lot less than the diff's xfer case and tranny thanx Roadie
Alignment pulling to the right doesn't implicate any problem with the right control arm. Again, you get the items inspected for looseness, and replace them if and only if they're loose. If they're not loose, then a competent alignment can make it steer straight. Upper ball joints aren't easy due to the way they have to be pressed out and into the steering knuckle. There's no rule of thumb for longevity - I've read about 80K trucks needing ball joints, and others still working well at 200K. Unless you have money to burn, there's no reason to change them before they show looseness.
I definitely see play in the right uca bushings when the truck is jacked up and I wiggle the wheel left to right . will check ball joints before I order them.