Clucking is driving me nuts

jham

jham

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Joined
Nov 20, 2011
Posts
1,334
Ok I seem to have this clunk when I hit large bumps on the Front passenger side. it sounds almost like the suspension is fully extending to hard. I have Marks new style lift Bilsteins hds new tierods, end links, stock springs, new sway bar Bushings there is no play in the wheel bearings. The only thing I can think of is that the bushing on the lower control arm where the strurt mounts to it might be bad. anyone else have this problem???? thanks in advance
 
Loose ball joint maybe?
 
You are first to report this issue.
Have someone bounce the front end while you search for source of clunk noise..

Sounds like something loose..imo..
 
markmc said:
You are first to report this issue.
Have someone bounce the front end while you search for source of clunk noise..

Sounds like something loose..imo..
Click to expand...

That what it seems to me to that something it loose but I have Checked everything i think:hissyfit:
 
markmc said:
Have you tried disconnecting the sway bar from the lower control arm and test drive yet?
Click to expand...

no i havent tried that yet
I just went out and bounce the Heck out of it in the driveway and it only does it on large Bumps while i was under it i grabbed the lower strut mount and it has play in side to side and up and downView attachment 16395
 

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OK
Get some spray lithium grease and shoot in the rubber bushing using the little tube that attaches to the spray nozzle, see if the noise goes away..
 
Took the liberty of moving this to the GMT360 section.....



Also, did you double check that lower strut mount nut to make sure it is tight enough? Check that, as well as the top strut nut. Maybe you didn't have the spring compressed fully to install the lift and the nut has a thread or two until it is snug.
 
jham said:
Ok I seem to have this clunk when I hit large bumps on the Front passenger side. it sounds almost like the suspension is fully extending to hard. I have Marks new style lift Bilsteins hds new tierods, end links, stock springs, new sway bar Bushings there is no play in the wheel bearings. The only thing I can think of is that the bushing on the lower control arm where the strurt mounts to it might be bad. anyone else have this problem???? thanks in advance
Click to expand...

i too have this. on all corners. only on large bumps. as stated, like suspension is extending to hard. more so in the rear (have the 2" spacers in) just figured it's normal.
when i had mine put on, by a local garage. (the have serviced all my work trucks, and had lifted many chevy trucks) they told me when i get it aligned, to lossen all suspension connections and bonce it around. because of new angles on the bushings. had firestone do the alignment when i got the bigger tires and they lossened everything and took a short drive in the parking lot, then tightened and aligned it.
any thoughts on this?
 
Could the shocks be topping out in the rear?
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
Could the shocks be topping out in the rear?
Click to expand...

topping out as in full compression?
i do have original oem shocks and springs on all corners, in one peticular spot, at bank drive up, if i go slow(knowing it's there) no problem, if i forget
it's there, a clunk. but it sound and feels like more of a down force(after the bump) than an up force.
when i had weight in the back, moving my 18" 265's to storage, (on a hitch carrier) it seemed to do better on hard bumps.
with those tires on the carrier it actually brought my nose up a little bit (almost reverse rake)
was thinking of taking out the 2" spacers in rear and seeing how it is.
thoughts????
 
fletch09 said:
topping out as in full compression?
i do have original oem shocks and springs on all corners, in one peticular spot, at bank drive up, if i go slow(knowing it's there) no problem, if i forget
it's there, a clunk. but it sound and feels like more of a down force(after the bump) than an up force.
when i had weight in the back, moving my 18" 265's to storage, (on a hitch carrier) it seemed to do better on hard bumps.
with those tires on the carrier it actually brought my nose up a little bit (almost reverse rake)
was thinking of taking out the 2" spacers in rear and seeing how it is.
thoughts????
Click to expand...

topping out meaning full droop or full extension. and there is certian places I drive that I can duplacate the CLUNK. I was thinking it was the strut running out of travel.
 
I meant full extention
 
Ya, it sounds like, at least in the rear, you are hitting full extension.
 
jham said:
well at least we solved someone's clunking still working on mine
Click to expand...

It could be the same thing. I know my front end is close to full extension and I get a long thump when I hit a large bump and it forces it to extend more. From the sounds of it you have replaced all the major possibilities. I would put an impact on the nut on top of the strut and see if it can be snugged any more.
 
Regulator said:
It could be the same thing. I know my front end is close to full extension and I get a long thump when I hit a large bump and it forces it to extend more. From the sounds of it you have replaced all the major possibilities. I would put an impact on the nut on top of the strut and see if it can be snugged any more.
Click to expand...

ok I will have to do that tomorrow thanks for everyone's advice
 
Duct tape
 
fletch09 said:
topping out as in full compression?
i do have original oem shocks and springs on all corners, in one peticular spot, at bank drive up, if i go slow(knowing it's there) no problem, if i forget
it's there, a clunk. but it sound and feels like more of a down force(after the bump) than an up force.
when i had weight in the back, moving my 18" 265's to storage, (on a hitch carrier) it seemed to do better on hard bumps.
with those tires on the carrier it actually brought my nose up a little bit (almost reverse rake)
was thinking of taking out the 2" spacers in rear and seeing how it is.
thoughts????
Click to expand...

There is room on the lower shock mounts to drill new holes up a couple inches..for raising the the lower shock mount bolt..
saves you from buying new longer shocks..
lost the pic i had for visual reference...
 
Easy check would be to unbolt the bottom shock mount and let it extend so you know how much travel is left to topping out.
 
HARDTRAILZ said:
Easy check would be to unbolt the bottom shock mount and let it extend so you know how much travel is left to topping out.
Click to expand...

sorry jham for another :hijack:
will ask a noob question. how much travel should there normally be? (in a proper set up)
if i am indeed reaching full extention, (in a thread on the "other site") you mentioned white body shocks.
where to look for these and is there a part number to look for?
 
fletch09 said:
sorry jham for another :hijack:
will ask a noob question. how much travel should there normally be? (in a proper set up)
if i am indeed reaching full extention, (in a thread on the "other site") you mentioned white body shocks.
where to look for these and is there a part number to look for?
Click to expand...

its cool man and I have the Bds 550 shocks I think that's the numbers but I seen somewhere that bds and fox racing got together and made a shock for our trucks I will try to find the numbers for you they we like 90 a piece though others like Markmc have posted the numbers for the skyjacker shocks
 
I dont know a part number but there should be one floating around for the skyjacker ones which are much cheaper.
 
Skyjacker Gas Filled - N8030, Hydraulic - H7030
 
Jham,

How many miles are on your truck? You may have worn out LCA bushings in the front. My front suspension behavior changed a lot when I replaced mine. I had no idea they were bad until my steering let go and I had to take the front apart. The new ones come with a urethane bushing in the front that apparently wears better.
 
fishsticks said:
Jham,

How many miles are on your truck? You may have worn out LCA bushings in the front. My front suspension behavior changed a lot when I replaced mine. I had no idea they were bad until my steering let go and I had to take the front apart. The new ones come with a urethane bushing in the front that apparently wears better.
Click to expand...

I am right at 66000 in the pic I posted you can kinda tell that the bushing there is all cracked and to change them I have to get new LCA's
 
jham said:
I am right at 66000
Click to expand...


Stick a big prybar in between the front hinge of the LCA and the subframe and pull... or start the truck and have someone turn the steering wheel against the locks with the front wheels in the air. There should be very little deflection in those front bushings. Mine had nearly an inch when I checked.
 
fishsticks said:
Stick a big prybar in between the front hinge of the LCA and the subframe and pull... or start the truck and have someone turn the steering wheel against the locks with the front wheels in the air. There should be very little deflection in those front bushings. Mine had nearly an inch when I checked.
Click to expand...

this could be why I have tire rub with only 265/70/17's when I back up
 
jham said:
this could be why I have tire rub with only 265/70/17's when I back up
Click to expand...


If it happens/gets worse when you're in 4WD then absolutely. The whole assembly is shifting backwards under power.
 
Thanks for the link Fish, I need to replace both of mine. The bushings are shot and the ball joint is well past its life expectancy.
 
jham said:
Ok I seem to have this clunk when I hit large bumps on the Front passenger side. it sounds almost like the suspension is fully extending to hard. I have Marks new style lift Bilsteins hds new tierods, end links, stock springs, new sway bar Bushings there is no play in the wheel bearings. The only thing I can think of is that the bushing on the lower control arm where the strurt mounts to it might be bad. anyone else have this problem???? thanks in advance
Click to expand...



I get a loud clunk after my lift, seem to be on the rebound only though or a fast drop off say pavement is unlevel... never did figure it out I just go slow over bumps that may cause the front to lift fast like going over tracks up an incline then level out asap of I am doing much more then 60 over it I get a bad rebound clunk....like I said stll scratching my head as to why it's happening.
 
Stock length shocks arent the way to go then?:frown:
 
snowyredenvoy said:
Stock length shocks arent the way to go then?:frown:
Click to expand...

Definitely not if you are going to get Z71 springs in the rear.
 
Well I was messing with this and forgot to report back here is what i found. I check the LCA's there is a little play but not very much. I was still like what the heck. so then I went through every bolt on the front. I found that the 2 nuts on the strut housing were a little loose. Like less than have of a turn. the Strut rod was good and tight. so was everything else. I went for a ride over the areas where the clunk was present at and the only thing I hear now is the Change in the cup holder rattling.
I guess i will have to check them often to make sure they don't come loose again thanks again for everyones idea's and help
 
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