Call for help PLEASE Any other stuck O2 Sensor Suggestions?

[jmonica]

Hi Guys.

I really need help please. I'm in a bad situation and honestly I am out of ideas.

My upstream O2 sensor is stuck. I've watched every YouTube video, read every article and tried every trick I can think of without success. I've tried the following.

Been soaking it with penetrating fluid for two days. Respraying it every hour or two.

Heated up the engine and soaked it again and again.

Map gas torch l... heated bung to over 800 degrees.

Have a very heavy 4 foot breaker bar plus a two foot pipe.

Air hammered the O2 socket to try to break it free.

More fluid drenching.

All the while applying more heat, more fluid, tapping with a hammer to crack it loose. I Air hammered / air chiseled it to try to turn O2 sensor socket. It's hard to get a good bite wort the air chisel but I've hit it fairly well I think.

Tried heating it up and then freezing just the sensor as much as that's possible with CRV. "Freeze off". Tried this cooling and heating process a couple of times whole also drenching it in fluid and heating and trying to crack it while hot.

I'm doing the best I can to keep from rounding off the nut, I still have a decent bite but you can see the edges are starting to get damaged.

My next attempt is going to cut off the sensor with the death wheel down to the nut and attempt to use one of the special sockets used on damaged bolts, lug nuts etc.

I don't don't know if I can get an Angie on it from the wheel well, so that I can use an impact gun or not. I hope so.

The problem is I have to use this car in the morning to get to work. No option to call out and an Uber is over $100 each way and I don't have the money for that.

Does anyone, have ANY other suggestions on what I can try to crack this @&$#%*g thing loose?

I really need help. I'm standing here staring at it and I'm not sure what to try next.

Thank you in advance

 

[Mooseman]

I think in another thread, I suggested a 22mm deep impact socket and a long breaker bar. If it does round off, using the twist type broken bolt extractor should be able to bite on it well.

You might have to take it to a shop so they can put an oxy torch to it and get the manifold red hot.

As for being able to use it, just unplug the sensor. Truck will still run with pre-defined fueling tables using other sensors. Of course the CEL will come on with a code for it. Fuel consumption will go slightly higher. Do not recommend this for too long as it may damage the cat if it's running rich.

Sometimes you have to throw in the towel and take it to the pros.

 

[jmonica]

I think in another thread, I suggested a 22mm deep impact socket and a long breaker bar. If it does round off, using the twist type broken bolt extractor should be able to bite on it well.

You might have to take it to a shop so they can put an oxy torch to it and get the manifold red hot.

As for being able to use it, just unplug the sensor. Truck will still run with pre-defined fueling tables using other sensors. Of course the CEL will come on with a code for it. Fuel consumption will go slightly higher. Do not recommend this for too long as it may damage the cat if it's running rich.

Sometimes you have to throw in the towel and take it to the pros.

Thank You. My question is if I cut it off so that I can get that socket on it, and I don't get it out, can I still drive the vehicle? Obviously it will run crappy and have a CEL etc...

I don't see what the difference would be between driving it with a non-working sensor, I guess I just want to know if I cut it off to get a socket on it, that I will be able to drive it.

I am "almost" to the point of throwing in the towel and bringing it some place, but I would need to drive it for a few days until I can come up with the money to pay a pro to do it.

It's going to sting a little if I have to resort to that, in terms of not being able to get it off myself.

Out of all of the difficult things I've had to fix, this may end up being the first one that totally kicked my a$$ and I've had to turn to a professional for help. I guess I will justify it by telling myself that if only I had a acetylene torch. ha!

I do have a new exhaust manifold for it. I'm just afraid of snapping off those bolts and being dead in the water. If it wasn't going to rain for the next 10 days I'd start swapping it out now and just ride my bike to work, but if you have ever ridden a sport bike in the rain, you know it's miserable and my motorcycle is dangerous in the rain, not to mention showing up to work looking like a drowned rat.

Money may not buy happiness, but it sure as heck makes situations like mine a lot easier to deal with.

Thank You Mooseman! You're the best!

 

[jmonica]

Third broken socket attachment. This sensor is on there man.

 

[jmonica]

Wheww. Thank the car gods. Feel inky got the sensor out!
So if I had to speculate on how I was finally able to get it out after two days of trying including an eight foot extension, I turned the torch up to high and going straight on it through the wheel well instead of from the top of the engine compartment, I blasted it with heat (Map gas torch) for a good 4-5 minutes.

I had cut the sensor off at the nut, and using a short 6pt. 7/8" impact socket and the Milwaukee Fuel 1/2" impact gun, blasted it, right after heating it. I went at it for about 30 seconds of impacting it and that baby spun run out.

I still can't find the one I took out. I really want to see it, but it's in a crevasse someplace probably hanging out with a half dozen 10mm sockets and a couple of 10mm wrenches.

My advice if youre in the sane boat, and I know this isn't going to seem like much, but persistence!!!
When you reach your frustration limit, walk away, get some lunch or just take a break. And when youre back in a good state of mind, get back to it and keep trying.

My sensor was the oem one so 17 years and 350,000 miles on it and rusted like crazy.

On a side note, I have to give kudos to GM. After all the abuse, the o2 sensor didn't strip and I was able to use a regular 6pt socket on it until it came out.

Im
Going to torque the new one down to 150lbs. So it doesn't fall out. I'm kidding!!! I think it's supposed to be 15 foot lbs.

Thank You again Mooseman! You always come through when I need your help and I am grateful as everyone else who comes here for help should be. All of the long time members here are awesome. So thank you to them as well.

 

[littleblazer]

I was going to say... half inch impact through the wheel well hasn't failed me yet. But being you've gotten it out, good job!

 

[mrrsm]

If the Exhaust Manifold is damaged bad enough or misshaped enough to risk cracking in the Upstream O2 Sensor Buss, then considering its entire R&R to solve BOTH problems might come to the fore:

For Late Model GMT360s...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087Q61MA/?tag=gmtnation-20

For Early Model GMT360s…

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049E7XVM/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[jmonica]

I was going to say... half inch impact through the wheel well hasn't failed me yet. But being you've gotten it out, good job!

Thank You, YES! Definitely, through the wheel well is the only the way to go on our vehicles! Thank You again!

 

[Mooseman]

If the sensor is hard to spin on due to damaged threads, there are thread chasers available at parts stores to clean the hole up.

 

[jmonica]

If the sensor is hard to spin on due to damaged threads, there are thread chasers available at parts stores to clean the hole up.

Thanks Mooseman. For once in my life I had the for thought to pick one up before it got too late on Sunday. I definately needed it. I spent almost an hour threading it in a little, backing it out, back and forth. No way was the new sensor going in without it. I appreciate the heads up!!!

 

[gmcman]

@jmonica very glad you were able to get the O2 sensor out. FWIW, using that universal joint was just eating up all your applied torque to that socket IMO.

Every O2 sensor I have removed, even the severely stubborn ones that I can remember, was using this socket and a 3/8" breaker bar, sometimes with a pipe or large box-end wrench over the end of the breaker bar. Breaker bars have the pivoting head and allows enough clearance from the manifold on the 4.2L. I don't even like using short extensions if I can help it.




Start the cold engine and let it run for about 1-2 min, then try to remove the sensor.