The chart is incredibly helpful but the word "trim" can mean so many different things, it would be great if the build notes gave more details for each of the specific cases.
For instance, I have (MarkMC) 3in body lift + 3in suspension lift + 1.5in spacers. My target tire/wheel is 33x11 with a zero offset rim.
I want to put 33x11 on the truck (I have the 3.73 gear and I have an auxillary trans cooler but I dont really tow anything) .
I have figured out that the 33x11 would fit if I were planning on using the OEM wheel offset but figuring out the clearance with a zero offset wheel (effectively a loss of almost 2inches of positive offset).
Assuming zero-offset wheels then some careful calculations are needed to determine the interference that results behind the front wheels:
So here is my best shot :
tire diamter D=diameter
tire width W
1) first measure your total diagonal length of tire (this is the distance from the centered pivot point to the far edge of the tread :
d= sqrt((D/2)^2 + W^2)
this tells you the total wheel well space necessary from the center of the hub turning/pivot point. This is the sweep necessary for the tire.
2) now get in car and turn steering so that you turn tire and see how much clearance you have with that present d. Any extra space that you have there tells how much space in the wheel well you have to work with.
So now I need to make a good approximation of the added sweep that additional offset will cause, so
3) now calculate your new effective tire d with the new offset wheel Wn=W+Offset
4) Calculate your new effective tire diagonal
dn= sqrt( (Dn/2)^2 + Wn^2)
now if the extra space from 2) does not exceed the difference dn-d then that offset is not going to work.
This is only a rough approximation. It assumes that the pivot point is inboard at the back of the rim. That is not a bad approximation but it is not perfect either.