Battery replaced now problems

Jon Blaze

Original poster
Member
Sep 5, 2014
48
06 trailblazer 4.2 4/4 LT 58000 miles Electronic heater controls
Replaced battery with a deka 800 cca. The old battery was ac delco 600 cca. Replaced battery because of weak starts when cold and it showed 12.1 volts engine off. Took for a ride and heater blower stoped then started back up 2 times as i hit the brake. Then i stoped went into store and came out and started it up and lights dimmed real bad for 5 to 6 seconds then ran fine. Checked battery it is at 12.5 volts engine off and 14.4 volts engine running. Checked ground and power to see if they were lose and they are tight. Trying to pin point what the problem is any help would be great.
Thank you
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,797
Tampa Bay Area, FL
I'd say maybe get the alternator load tested, make sure it's putting out enough current, not just voltage. :twocents:
 

hockeyman

Member
Aug 26, 2012
726
Definitely test the Alternator, but I'd probably check and/or replace both + and - battery cables. Corrosion can get inside of those lines and cause all kinds of havoc.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
26,356
Ottawa, ON
I had a couple of alternators die on me like that. It would be fine one minute and the next, low power and "battery not charging" message, then it would come back until it eventually died permanently.
 

Jon Blaze

Original poster
Member
Sep 5, 2014
48
I will look into testing the alt. and look at the cables. When you say corrosion do you mean inside the eye that connects to the battery or do you mean in the cable itself? I looked at the cables they look to be in good shape. I also looked at the grounds under the hood they appear to be ok also looked at the wires going to the starter and alt. and pulled on them to no changes when i was doing that. The engine was running at the time.
 

hockeyman

Member
Aug 26, 2012
726
Corrosion can also happen inside of the sleeve(s) of the wires. Doesn't always happen, but they can look fine from the outside and have major corrosion issues further down inside of the wires. Normally though, if the terminals look okay, the wires "should" be okay...normally.
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,050
When you said that the power and ground were tight, did you use a wrench or just your fingers?

I had an issue sort of similar to yours and I checked the cables with my fingers...they were tight, still had issues and checked them with a wrench, they needed to be tightened more.
 
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smt 59

Member
I agree with Hockeyman, you should change the cables if you suspect internal corrosion as well have the battery load tested when you have the alternator checked as all new batteries are only new to you when you purchase it. In regards to the alternator check you are also checking for amps output, if you do require a replacement make sure they are selling you the one for your truck, they take a 180 amp, don't settle for less.
 

Wooluf1952

Member
Nov 20, 2011
2,663
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
All years of the 4.2 I6 have 150 amp alternators.
The 5.3 and 6.0 V8s have 145 amp alternators.
 
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Jon Blaze

Original poster
Member
Sep 5, 2014
48
I tested some stuff went for a ride came back checked charging system 13.7/13.8 turned on everything heated seats blower on high with defroster high beams interior lights. Started out at 13.3/13.6 then rev up engine to 1500 volts dropped to 12.9 let off throtle dropped to 12.4 then went up to 12.6 at idle everything on.
 

Jon Blaze

Original poster
Member
Sep 5, 2014
48
Ok today i pulled the battery out Checked the terminals under the rubber boots no cor. wires are tight check alt wires all good followed ground to strut tower there is cor. cleaned it off sandpapered it and some vas. then put a load test on new battery started out at 12.6 tested went to 10.5 after test went back to 12.2 then i put new battery back in truck and started it up ran fine then rev rpm up to 1500 to 1800 and lights started to dim and volt needle went down below 14.0 ( had everything on heated seats blower on defrost high high beams interior lights) Put the old battery back in and now it is ok will watch and keep you posted. Also hooked up DVM and reads 13.7 engine running all the stuff from above on. Is it possible that the new battery has a bad cell in it im going to wait before i go back to the battery place and say something just incase the problem is still there with old battery now.
 

07TrailyLS

Member
May 7, 2014
423
Toledo ohio
Never rule out a new battery. Bought one from Walmart over the summer and it was dead after a month. Swapped it under warranty, two months later this new one is completely caput. Put my
Original back in, no issues. Will never buy ANYTHING for my truck at Walmart again. Shoulda spent the 140 bucks and got a redtop
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,797
Tampa Bay Area, FL
Will never buy ANYTHING for my truck at Walmart again

They seem to have the best prices around on Mobil 1 oil, if you do your own oil changes :twocents: :raspberry:

I will say my last 2 batteries have been the Walmart brand, the previous one went bad under warranty so I got it replaced as well. If this one has a similar fate, then I'll opt out of buying their batteries moving forward.
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,050
Personally, I haven't had an issue with any of the Walmart batteries I've bought.

What you can do as well, keep the receipt and take it back to a Walmart that DOESN'T have a tire and lube centre before the warranty runs out. (They can test the battery then) Tell them it's farked and get a new one under warranty, rinse and repeat every 3 years.
 

Blckshdw

Moderator
Nov 20, 2011
10,797
Tampa Bay Area, FL
What you can do as well, keep the receipt and take it back to a Walmart that DOESN'T have a tire and lube centre before the warranty runs out. (They can test the battery then) Tell them it's farked and get a new one under warranty, rinse and repeat every 3 years

They will still test it. They keep a handheld load tester in the customer service center. In my case, the woman barely knew how to work the machine, and I had to coach her through it.
 

Matt

Member
Dec 2, 2011
4,050
Not where I used to work mate...they've got NFI.
 

07TrailyLS

Member
May 7, 2014
423
Toledo ohio
They seem to have the best prices around on Mobil 1 oil, if you do your own oil changes :twocents: :raspberry:

I will say my last 2 batteries have been the Walmart brand, the previous one went bad under warranty so I got it replaced as well. If this one has a similar fate, then I'll opt out of buying their batteries moving forward.
I do get my Mobil 1 oil from there as well because it's 20 dollars cheaper for a 5qt than ANY auto store. Looks like I'm going to have to continue shopping there grrrr!
 

webdawg

Member
Jun 26, 2014
247
I tested some stuff went for a ride came back checked charging system 13.7/13.8 turned on everything heated seats blower on high with defroster high beams interior lights. Started out at 13.3/13.6 then rev up engine to 1500 volts dropped to 12.9 let off throtle dropped to 12.4 then went up to 12.6 at idle everything on.

12.6 at idle I thought is low and means a bad regulator...

I thought 13.3/13.6 is where the vehicle is supposed to be at with the car running?
 

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