Auto fogs that turn off with the factory switch - DONE!

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva


^that's a video^:cool:

Something that I've wanted to do for years and never had time to figure out was wiring the fogs in mine to come on with the low beams and be able to turn them off with the factory switch. I have my own reasons for wanting to do it this way. Anyway, after talking to Sam the other day, I realized what (asides from time) was missing. Success! This also does 6 beam (if you have quads already) but the fogs can not be turned off while in 6 beam mode.

So, I'm gonna get a pair of $2.00 chinese relays, toss in some t-taps and rings, and sell them as a may03industries switchable auto fog harness for $70.00.:duh::hissyfit::mad::no:

LOL J/K if anyone is interested I'll post the schematic.

It's a 5 wire hookup if you prep it on a bench.

4e225ff6.jpg


This is the schematic, courtesy of mah mspaint skills.

4cb1315e.jpg
 

SSPRMAN

Member
Feb 18, 2012
27
stop teasing, tell us silly:wootwoot:

BTW, u get to check on that fog diode to 12v keyed that i mentioned:biggrin:
I have the wiring schedule for the bcmin the truck, ill bring it up later
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
SSPRMAN said:
u get to check on that fog diode to 12v keyed that i mentioned:biggrin:

Sure did. The fog circuits @ the bcm (indicator, output to fog relay, fog switch input) are all grounds. Since there are no switched grounds in the truck, it looks like a relay is the way to go. You could take a switched 12v source, use it to turn on a relay, and that will ground the output to the fog relay (dark green/white stripe) circuit.

5577f7e9.jpg


NOTE:this^^^ isn't how I did mine to come on with the lows. This is for what SSPRMAN wants his to do.:cool:

stop teasing, tell us silly

Ok if I get 10 members to buy them, I'll knock the shipping and handling charge from $30 to $20:rotfl:
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
Steve A said:
Best part of the video is at 1:10 when you go to check the lights after you turned them off... "Fuck yea"...

That's the may03 seal of approval right there:yes::cool:
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
Steve A said:
OK...

Will this work with Tblazed DRL killer? I used the diode version of the quad headlights. Will the auto headlights be retained?

I'm not sure how his is wired up, and I'm not familiar with the diode version of quads either. If you have some links I'll look into it.

Mine has the EnvoyXL DRL killer (from the other site) and a different version of the quad mod.
 

TXBlazer

Member
Nov 21, 2011
533
Cypress, TEXAS USA
MAY03LT said:
Sure did. The fog circuits @ the bcm (indicator, output to fog relay, fog switch input) are all grounds. Since there are no switched grounds in the truck, it looks like a relay is the way to go. You could take a switched 12v source, use it to turn on a relay, and that will ground the output to the fog relay (dark green/white stripe) circuit.

5577f7e9.jpg


NOTE:this^^^ isn't how I did mine to come on with the lows. This is for what SSPRMAN wants his to do.:cool:



Ok if I get 10 members to buy them, I'll knock the shipping and handling charge from $30 to $20:rotfl:

Hey look up there in Drew's diagram....that little red wire from under the hood is actually attached to something:rotfl:
 

SSPRMAN

Member
Feb 18, 2012
27
MAY03LT said:
Sure did. The fog circuits @ the bcm (indicator, output to fog relay, fog switch input) are all grounds. Since there are no switched grounds in the truck, it looks like a relay is the way to go. You could take a switched 12v source, use it to turn on a relay, and that will ground the output to the fog relay (dark green/white stripe) circuit.

5577f7e9.jpg

I can grab a relay a radio shack right? Is there a certain one to get? And just to make sure i have it right, the fog wire into the relay at 87, the switched 12v(can I grab that from the bcm?)to 30, and ground the other two

THANKS BOSS!!!

As far as the diode version Steve is talking about, it should just be jumping from the low beam to the high, I wanna say something like a5->b7 or something, forget which pin is what.
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
SSPRMAN said:
I can grab a relay a radio shack right? Is there a certain one to get?

The radio shack by me doesn't have sh*t, and napa/autozone sells cheapie chinese ones. I get them from parts express. edit: the ones I used for this mod weren't from parts express

Tyco relay
12 VDC Tyco 5-Pin Relay SPDT 20/30A (Formerly Bosch) 330-070

I also use the relay socket because they give a better bite then individual spade connectors.
12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket For Bosch Type Relay 330-075

SSPRMAN said:
And just to make sure i have it right, the fog wire into the relay at 87, the switched 12v(can I grab that from the bcm?)to 30, and ground the other two
THANKS BOSS!!!

Yeah, cut the wire though, and wire the relay 87 on the vehicle side, not the bcm side. The bcm will get mad if it "sees" the fog circuit grounded. I see two 12v sources at the bcm, I'll have to check tomorrow to confirm if either are switched.

TXBlazer said:
Hey look up there in Drew's diagram....that little red wire from under the hood is actually attached to something:rotfl:

You mean the red wire at the....lol!!!!

SSPRMAN said:
As far as the diode version Steve is talking about, it should just be jumping from the low beam to the high, I wanna say something like a5->b7 or something, forget which pin is what.

There's so many gosh darn ways to modify these things I tell you what!!!
 
MAY03LT said:
I'm not sure how his is wired up, and I'm not familiar with the diode version of quads either. If you have some links I'll look into it.

Mine has the EnvoyXL DRL killer (from the other site) and a different version of the quad mod.

From the old site:

QUAD HEADLIGHTS

Tblazed DRL Killer is: Basically to install the module, you cut one wire (pink/white stripe) located in the wiring harness at the rear BCM-fuse block ass'y, attach two wires from the module to the two ends of the wire you cut, connect module to 12V and GND.

Hope that helps.

Steve
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
Steve A said:

On paper, it looks like it will work. Pink/white will keep black/white on, so it shouldn't be effected by the auto fogs. Key word being shouldn't.

Steve A said:
Tblazed DRL Killer is: Basically to install the module, you cut one wire (pink/white stripe) located in the wiring harness at the rear BCM-fuse block ass'y, attach two wires from the module to the two ends of the wire you cut, connect module to 12V and GND.

Well, that's pretty close to EnvoyXLs version, so I think it will work. Key word being think.

Steve A said:
Hope that helps.

Sure did, thanks!!!
 
MAY03LT said:
So, I'm gonna get a pair of $2.00 chinese relays, toss in some t-taps and rings, and sell them as a may03industries switchable auto fog harness for $70.00.:duh::hissyfit::mad::no:

Well since you posted them for 70 bucks, I am assuming this price is high, so people can low ball you, SO...

When can I get mine for 45 bucks?

I figure this will be hard to take a sawzall too... LOL!!
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
"I'm Rick Harrison and this is my pawn shop. I work here with my old man and my son, Big Hoss. And in 23 years I’ve learned one thing. You never know what is gonna come through that door."
 

ScarabEpic22

Member
Nov 20, 2011
728
Nice!

I just did the diode mod for highs+fogs last week but Im not sold on the idea that if I have the fogs off and hit the highs they will come on. Thinking HIDs here, but I do want them to stay on if I have them on and hit the highs! Ugh, so frustrating, any ideas? Or am I SOL for the time being?
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
ScarabEpic22 said:
Or am I SOL for the time being?

For now, we both are. If I turn the fogs off first, then hit highs, the fogs also come on. Since my fogs work backwards, when the bcm sees the high request, it turns on relay 2 and the fogs come on. I think if I put some time into it, I could come up with a solution. Maybe in the future. For now I'm just glad I finally have them done!

And SSPRMAN neither of the 12v leads in the grey/tan connectors are switched 12v.:frown:

If I'm reading the pinout correctly, there are 1 or 2 UNDER the bcm but I have not tested them. Like the rear door trigger leads, they are a PITA to get to.
 

SSPRMAN

Member
Feb 18, 2012
27
Shoot me if I'm asking too many ???

A2 is headlamp washer rely control white wire
B6 is 12 volt reference white wire

E12 is horn relay control black wire
F3 windshield wiper switch signal 2 dark green

That's all I can see that may be a possibility of being switched power. Let me know boss
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
Steve A said:
Why would you want to turn your fogs off if you have HID's?

I've read in the 6 beam threads that 6 beam is technically illegal.

Steve A said:
IF i do this mod, my fogs will be auto on correct?

Are your auto lights functional? Like you don't have to turn the switch at night?

In my version, the fogs come on when the low beam switch is turned on. BUT, in mine, the low beams also only come on with the headlight switch.

If you do have autolights, you could tap E7 pink instead of F9 white for the (-) signal. If you did that, the fogs will come on whenever your lows come on, so it would be compatible with your version of the DRL killer.

Steve A said:
and if i hit my high beams my fogs will stay on correct?

Correct.:yes:

SSPRMAN said:
A2 is headlamp washer rely control white wire
B6 is 12 volt reference white wire

E12 is horn relay control black wire
F3 windshield wiper switch signal 2 dark green

Give me a little bit to go through the manual. I researched B6 last night. It goes to the clockspring for the radio volume/seek controls, it's a MUX circuit. I don't know how triggering a relay could effect that circuit, so I suggest not using it, even if it does switch.

SSPRMAN said:
Shoot me if I'm asking too many ???

NO WE ARE GOING TO DO THIS SHIT!!!!!:wootwoot:
 
MAY03LT said:
I've read in the 6 beam threads that 6 beam is technically illegal.

OK thats understandable then


MAY03LT said:
Are your auto lights functional? Like you don't have to turn the switch at night?

Yes my lights are auto on when low light conditions exist. I dont ever have to use the switch

MAY03LT said:
If you do have autolights, you could tap E7 pink instead of F9 white for the (-) signal. If you did that, the fogs will come on whenever your lows come on, so it would be compatible with your version of the DRL killer.

So I would tap into the pink wire before the DRL killer or after the drl killer?

MAY03LT said:
NO WE ARE GOING TO DO THIS SHIT!!!!!:wootwoot:

I am starting to think I need to make a day trip one weekend!
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
Steve A said:
Yes my lights are auto on when low light conditions exist. I dont ever have to use the switch

Gotcha dude.

So I would tap into the pink wire before the DRL killer or after the drl killer?

Going by your previous post, Pink wasn't touched, only pink/white. So I'm thinking that nothing on the DRL killer that you have would be messed with. Unless Pink was used, which I have seen used in some of the DRL kill w/auto lights threads.

I am starting to think I need to make a day trip one weekend!

Come on up!:wootwoot:
 
MAY03LT said:
Going by your previous post, Pink wasn't touched, only pink/white. So I'm thinking that nothing on the DRL killer that you have would be messed with. Unless Pink was used, which I have seen used in some of the DRL kill w/auto lights threads.

You are correct sir, I used the pink/white wire, that was my mis-understanding.


MAY03LT said:
Come on up!:wootwoot:

Will have to be about 2-3 weeks, I will of course let you know when...

SSPRMAN said:
I m not touching anything til u give me the all clear:yes:

Thats why I am waiting. I will be going to Radio Shack this weekend, BUT will not do anything yet... just a parts gathering mission.
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
SSPRMAN said:
I m not touching anything til u give me the all clear:yes:

Cool man. Maybe we can push Trey to get his mod day going and we can do it there.

Steve A said:
You are correct sir, I used the pink/white wire, that was my mis-understanding.

Gotcha.

Will have to be about 2-3 weeks, I will of course let you know when...

Coolness.

Steve A said:
Thats why I am waiting. I will be going to Radio Shack this weekend, BUT will not do anything yet... just a parts gathering mission.

Do whatcha want, but like I said earlier in this thread the RS by me sucks. :mad::biggrin:
 

DARKASS04EXT

Member
Nov 21, 2011
193
MAY03LT said:
Cool man. Maybe we can push Trey to get his mod day going and we can do it there.

If we have a MOD DAY, it wont be for my suspension drop. I realized i gotta get new upper Ball joints, along with my brakemotive kit. But, I wanna do Quad beam and the quad tails so maybe we can still work something out. We can do something @ my place or someone else's, i dont have too much room for parking etc but we'll make it work.
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
DARKASS04EXT said:
If we have a MOD DAY, it wont be for my suspension drop. I realized i gotta get new upper Ball joints, along with my brakemotive kit. But, I wanna do Quad beam and the quad tails so maybe we can still work something out. We can do something @ my place or someone else's, i dont have too much room for parking etc but we'll make it work.

Darn, it seemed like a good idea lol. Quad beams - easy, depending on how you do it. Quad park boards take me a few hours to build, then the 24 hour cure for the epoxy, then separate vibration tests (tests strength of joints) and leak tests (test epoxy seals) take me a few more hours. Quad brake/turns are done outside of the boards, but I haven't got around to making a proto relay harness for them yet. Maybe on my next vacation lol.
 

SSPRMAN

Member
Feb 18, 2012
27
Can I get done what I need to do behind the light switch? Just wondering, only because if I'm cutting the wire and putting the relay on the truck side not the bcm side, would that technically be between the bcm and switch. And wouldn't it be easier to find a switched 12v behinds the dash.
 

MAY03LT

Original poster
Member
Nov 18, 2011
3,422
Delmarva
38b3d544.jpg


SSPRMAN said:
Can I get done what I need to do behind the light switch? Just wondering, only because if I'm cutting the wire and putting the relay on the truck side not the bcm side, would that technically be between the bcm and switch.

I think that would work. Looks like the green/white is used for both the relay and the indicator. So, you could eliminate bcm control by cutting the green/white at the bcm, and tie in the output from your relay to the green/white wire at the headlight switch. Put the relay up there, grab 2 grounds and a switched 12v and you might be in business. Key word being might, of course. Looks good on paper.

SSPRMAN said:
And wouldn't it be easier to find a switched 12v behinds the dash.

Absolutely it is.
 

Forum Statistics

Threads
23,444
Posts
639,446
Members
18,668
Latest member
Zee0719

Members Online