Anyone know Hayden 8027739 fan clutch?
- Thread starter ZD3SF
- Start date
Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,003
Any EV fan clutch from 02-07 will work! Its just if you use the thermal one from 08-09 it will throw a code. Pretty much all the EV clutches plug in.
Was this off another GMT360/370? I can't find much info going off the part number, which has me questioning if its an older fan clutch model, or its a private label branded for an Auto Part store.
Edit: Found it. Its the in-house part number for the Hayden Clutches sold/re-branded by NAPA. So it should be the exact same as the Hayden 3200. If you don't do any towing it should be fine, another member here found the EV Hayden Clutches don't necessarily run at the commanded speeds by the PCM like the OEM AC Delco/BEHR clutches do.
Was this off another GMT360/370? I can't find much info going off the part number, which has me questioning if its an older fan clutch model, or its a private label branded for an Auto Part store.
Edit: Found it. Its the in-house part number for the Hayden Clutches sold/re-branded by NAPA. So it should be the exact same as the Hayden 3200. If you don't do any towing it should be fine, another member here found the EV Hayden Clutches don't necessarily run at the commanded speeds by the PCM like the OEM AC Delco/BEHR clutches do.
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Mooseman
Moderator
Yep, have it saved in the FAQ:
EV Fan Clutch Recommendations for proper operation
Be sure to test that fan clutch as any used one can be iffy at best.
And yes, they're all the same, even from V8's.
EV Fan Clutch Recommendations for proper operation
Be sure to test that fan clutch as any used one can be iffy at best.
And yes, they're all the same, even from V8's.
Thanks Mike and Mooseman, I figured it was a NAPA, but thank you for confirming that its a Hayden 3200. I ended up buying an AC Delco 15-40133 because I don't want to mess with used and unknown mileage fans. Orielly's had the cheapest for $148 and $10 shipping, beating both Amazon ($200) and RockAuto ($179+$9 shipping)!!! Amazing!
Update: the ACDelco fan (Actually Behr part) works great, no roaring, very quite.
New problem, coolant temperature lower (188-192 F), it used to be 196-198F (using OBD). The more the Engine is revved, the lower the coolant temperature gets (towards 188). like this thread
- Thermostat: ACDelco - replaced 2 years ago (20k miles ago)
- Temp sensor: I never replaced it. IDK about previous owner
- Coolant: Dex cool 50/50. <1 year old. In changing the fan, drained and reused 2 times. There were some particulates in it but I filtered it through coffee paper.
Not sure if particles got in and thermostat is stuck open? Sensor is bad? or system not burped properly. Truck seems to warm up as fast as before.
New problem, coolant temperature lower (188-192 F), it used to be 196-198F (using OBD). The more the Engine is revved, the lower the coolant temperature gets (towards 188). like this thread
- Thermostat: ACDelco - replaced 2 years ago (20k miles ago)
- Temp sensor: I never replaced it. IDK about previous owner
- Coolant: Dex cool 50/50. <1 year old. In changing the fan, drained and reused 2 times. There were some particulates in it but I filtered it through coffee paper.
Not sure if particles got in and thermostat is stuck open? Sensor is bad? or system not burped properly. Truck seems to warm up as fast as before.
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Mike534x
Member
- Apr 9, 2012
- 1,003
What model year is your truck?
I think anything under 180* sets a CEL for the thermostat or coolant temp sensor. Usually when changing the t-stat, you should do the coolant sensor. 02-05 the sensor sits above the t-stat, should be able to get in there and change it by moving the alternator forward. 06-09 it was moved to the passenger side rear of the engine block towards the firewall. THAT one is a major PITA to get to.
I'm used to the OP temps of the 5.3, but I think you're still within normal operating range. If the heat was still blowing as hot as you remember it while purging the system it should be fine, or if there was an air pocket you should be seeing much higher temps/close to overheating.
I think anything under 180* sets a CEL for the thermostat or coolant temp sensor. Usually when changing the t-stat, you should do the coolant sensor. 02-05 the sensor sits above the t-stat, should be able to get in there and change it by moving the alternator forward. 06-09 it was moved to the passenger side rear of the engine block towards the firewall. THAT one is a major PITA to get to.
I'm used to the OP temps of the 5.3, but I think you're still within normal operating range. If the heat was still blowing as hot as you remember it while purging the system it should be fine, or if there was an air pocket you should be seeing much higher temps/close to overheating.
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