NEED HELP Annoying chirp under hood

[richphotos]

Can anyone help me identify this sound?
Passenger side
Tensioner pulley and idler pulley brand new.
Belt new last fall.
Mostly at idle or low rpms and fades as rpm goes up.

Thanks, it's driving me insane.

 

[Mooseman]

Have you tried running it without the belt to eliminate anything belt driven? If it stops, then spin each pulley in an attempt to find it. Another thing to check is pulley alignment.

 

[STSCowboy]

It’s a common problem. I have it as well but just haven’t had time to check it out yet.

 

[STSCowboy]

Mine is about 25% as annoying as yours by the way. I guess that’s why I haven’t made time to deal with it yet.

 

[richphotos]

Have you tried running it without the belt to eliminate anything belt driven? If it stops, then spin each pulley in an attempt to find it. Another thing to check is pulley alignment.

Not yet without the belt. Didn't even cross my mind, dumb me
I will do that in the next couple days

Pulley alignment looks good visually.

It sounds like it's coming from the new tensioner.

 

[richphotos]

Mine is about 25% as annoying as yours by the way. I guess that’s why I haven’t made time to deal with it yet.

Man, its driving me insane.
Started getting worse through the winter, replaced the tensioner a few weeks ago and it was still chirping a bit, did the idler today thinking it was that and no dice.

Tried a belt dressing my buddy had and it seemed to make it worse, but who knows.

 

[Mooseman]

Tried a belt dressing my buddy had and it seemed to make it worse, but who knows.

It works at first and then makes it worse.

I once had a minor squeak in the Saab that I tried everything and got rid of it by using a special belt. It's formerly known as the Gatorbelt, now marketed by Continental.

Continental

Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE

www.thequietbelt.com

 

[richphotos]

It works at first and then makes it worse.

I once had a minor squeak in the Saab that I tried everything and got rid of it by using a special belt. It's formerly known as the Gatorbelt, now marketed by Continental.

Continental

Normal 0 false false false EN-US JA X-NONE

www.thequietbelt.com

I think I might go that route. When I searched up chirping for these seems like it helps. I currently have a dayco


Found this on another forum for these
"According to the RPO codes I have the 150 amp alternator, yet the 91.5 inch belt was MUCH too long. It would work, but the tensioner would rattle - especially at idle."

I wonder if that could be the issue?

 

[Mooseman]

Still check with the belt off and spin the pulleys but that belt with the dressing is junk now.

 

[richphotos]

Still check with the belt off and spin the pulleys but that belt with the dressing is junk now.

I'm gonna hit my friend. Never used belt dressing in my life.

Well, ya learn.
Found the belt locally
*auto zone has it*
Thanks for the help.

Still going to remove the belt and spin stuff.

 

[aaserv]

IMO Dayco and Gates belts are junk. And if buy the kit where you get the belt and tensioner you got 2 pieces of junk...

 

[richphotos]

IMO Dayco and Gates belts are junk. And if buy the kit where you get the belt and tensioner you got 2 pieces of junk...

LMFAO I'm Seeing that now.

 

[Mathoran]

I just recently replace my dayco belt because it was chirping for months before i figured out it was just the belt. Replaced it with a Continental and no problems since. If you look at the 2 belts the dayco is way more rubbery where the continental is a softer type material.

 

[Mektek]

Is the belt riding in the exact center of the tensioner pulley? My old one was off, so I shimmed under the bolts at the side of the tensioner arm. That brought it into perfect alignment.
Also, there is a small chance your belt is defective, even thought it's fairly new. One single cord can fail and let the belt slip a bit every time it rolls over that spot. It will still look normal to a casual inspection.

 

[richphotos]

Is the belt riding in the exact center of the tensioner pulley? My old one was off, so I shimmed under the bolts at the side of the tensioner arm. That brought it into perfect alignment.
Also, there is a small chance your belt is defective, even thought it's fairly new. One single cord can fail and let the belt slip a bit every time it rolls over that spot. It will still look normal to a casual inspection.

It looked to be centered and on the right track when comparing the marks on the pulley to the new one.

I have a continental belt ready for me at autozone that I will put on wednesday.

I only got belt dressing on the smooth side of the belt. Should I clean off the tensioner and idler, and what should I use? rubbing alcohol?


I appreciate all the help. I know its not serious but damn is it annoying. Its hard to look sweet in a trailblazer when people can hear you chirping a block away.

 

[Mooseman]

I only got belt dressing on the smooth side of the belt. Should I clean off the tensioner and idler, and what should I use? rubbing alcohol?

That should work or brake cleaner.

 

[mrrsm]

If the suggested New Replacement Belt does not solve the problem... Try cycling the A/C On and Off and see if the sound either changes or stops. My Money is on The Sound of a Bad or Worn-Rusted Roller Bearing in the Magnetic Clutch on the A/C Compressor.

 

[richphotos]

If the suggested New Replacement Belt does not solve the problem... Try cycling the A/C On and Off and see if the sound either changes or stops. My Money is on The Sound of a Bad or Worn-Rusted Roller Bearing in the Magnetic Clutch on the A/C Compressor.

Now that it's warmer it's all but stopped with the old belt.
Still going to put the new one.

If it is that I'm guessing a compressor would be in order? Is that a pretty involved job?

 

[mrrsm]

If the aggravating sound subsides enough to be tolerable with the New Belt... Great. But if the Magnetic Clutch Sealed Bearing really is destined to fail... then Yes... Performing an R&R of JUST The Magnetic Clutch (if possible) and then replacing the hidden, FURARed Roller Bearing would side-step the need to do what this Video shows as the requisite PITA work to R&R the entire A/C Compressor:

@Sparky wrote about this problem way back in 2013, so this Thread may have some additional information to consider before just jumping in with both feet. It's a Lot of Work and requires a working knowledge and possession of HVAC Repair Procedures, Specialty Tools-Gear, Special Green "O" Rings and at least one 8 Oz. Bottle of 'PAG 46' Oil (Hygroscopic HVAC Lubricant) and SOME MORE HVAC SYSTEM PARTS (the Accumulator- Drier and the Orifice Tube):

Replace compressor clutch or whole compressor?

I took my 02 TB to the mechanic for a grinding noise coming from the compressor, mechanic said it was the AC clutch assembly. My question is is it worth it to only replace the assembly? The mechanic said that if the assembly is bad there is a 90% chance the compressor is bad to but the AC worked...

gmtnation.com

So if replacing JUST the Mag-Clutch Bearing turns out to be both DO-able AND EZR... It will save you a lot of Time, Effort and Money, as you should ONLY ever swap that Old Compressor with an Expensive, Brand New Delphi or ACDelco OEM A/C Compressor for this R&R... or you WILL be doing this Friggin' Job all over again in about 6-8 Weeks. And Yes... the Quality Replacement Compressors DO come with a Brand New Magnetic-Clutch pre-installed.

Please look in FAQ Section for a Write Up on HVAC Repairs. Don't Do This Work... If you Don't Have To!

 

[richphotos]

If the aggravating sound subsides enough to be tolerable with the New Belt... Great. But if the Magnetic Clutch Sealed Bearing really is destined to fail... then Yes... Performing an R&R of JUST The Magnetic Clutch (if possible) and then replacing the hidden, FURARed Roller Bearing would side-step the need to do what this Video shows as the requisite PITA work to R&R the entire A/C Compressor:

@Sparky wrote about this problem way back in 2013, so this Thread may have some additional information to consider before just jumping in with both feet. It's a Lot of Work and requires a working knowledge and possession of HVAC Repair Procedures, Specialty Tools-Gear, Special Green "O" Rings and at least one 8 Oz. Bottle of 'PAG 46' Oil (Hygroscopic HVAC Lubricant) and SOME MORE HVAC SYSTEM PARTS (the Accumulator- Drier and the Orifice Tube):

Replace compressor clutch or whole compressor?

I took my 02 TB to the mechanic for a grinding noise coming from the compressor, mechanic said it was the AC clutch assembly. My question is is it worth it to only replace the assembly? The mechanic said that if the assembly is bad there is a 90% chance the compressor is bad to but the AC worked...

gmtnation.com

So if replacing JUST the Mag-Clutch Bearing turns out to be both DO-able AND EZR... It will save you a lot of Time, Effort and Money, as you should ONLY ever swap that Old Compressor with an Expensive, Brand New Delphi or ACDelco OEM A/C Compressor for this R&R... or you WILL be doing this Friggin' Job all over again in about 6-8 Weeks. And Yes... the Quality Replacement Compressors DO come with a Brand New Magnetic-Clutch pre-installed.

Please look in FAQ Section for a Write Up on HVAC Repairs. Don't Do This Work... If you Don't Have To!

Thank you!
I will keep this info for later use. I cycled the AC on and off and no change in the noise.
New belt is on and it's quiet as can be. I saw some glazed spots on the old belt.

I will update if the sound comes back or not.

Thanks for the help everyone.


Got the struts and shocks down today a well. Rear shocks are beyond easy, 12 minutes a side.