I replaced my 2002 Envoy's front pads and rotors according to instructions such as
Note: Compressing the caliper pistons was much more difficult than it looks in videos. I used a clamp and had to really crank on it. (I did NOT pinch off the brake lines.)
I bled about a pint of fluid through the bleeder on each front caliper. I pumped the brakes until firm and topped off the master cylinder. I didn't touch the master cylinder other than sucking out old fluid and adding new fluid.
Upon test drive in my driveway, the front brakes are extremely tight: the vehicle will not move while in gear at idle. To move it, I have to push the accelerator a fair amount, and I can hear binding/sticking at the front wheels.
I jacked the rear, and the rear wheels spin normally by hand. I jacked the front, and I cannot rotate the wheels by hand.
To fix it, so far I have removed the front right wheel and caliper bolts. The glide pins are fine. I opened the bleeder and sucked several ounces of fluid into a vacuum pump, and the caliper is still tight. Therefore I doubt that the problem is residual pressure (e.g. long booster push rod or clogged hoses). I cannot pull the caliper off of the rotor.
1. What may have caused the difficulty compressing the pistons and the tight brakes? I have a guess but would like your unbiased ideas.
2. How can I remove the calipers and find and fix the problem?
3. Bonus question: When compressing the pistons, bleeding brakes, etc., is it important to have the ignition on, i.e. to have the ABS module powered? (My OBD scanner isn't smart enough to talk to the ABS.) I wondered whether that's a factor.
I have a guess about the problem, based on this thread
but I don't know how to do my next step: remove the stuck calipers. I'm searching youtube.
How to Change Brake Pads and Rotors
Summary: How to Change Brake Pads and Rotors Difficulty: Moderate Estimated Time: 4 hours Part Numbers: Varies Cost: Varies NOTE: All pictures are of the right rear brake assembly. All instructions apply to my 2005 Trailblazer I6 4x4; they may be different on other years or models. Many...
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Note: Compressing the caliper pistons was much more difficult than it looks in videos. I used a clamp and had to really crank on it. (I did NOT pinch off the brake lines.)
I bled about a pint of fluid through the bleeder on each front caliper. I pumped the brakes until firm and topped off the master cylinder. I didn't touch the master cylinder other than sucking out old fluid and adding new fluid.
Upon test drive in my driveway, the front brakes are extremely tight: the vehicle will not move while in gear at idle. To move it, I have to push the accelerator a fair amount, and I can hear binding/sticking at the front wheels.
I jacked the rear, and the rear wheels spin normally by hand. I jacked the front, and I cannot rotate the wheels by hand.
To fix it, so far I have removed the front right wheel and caliper bolts. The glide pins are fine. I opened the bleeder and sucked several ounces of fluid into a vacuum pump, and the caliper is still tight. Therefore I doubt that the problem is residual pressure (e.g. long booster push rod or clogged hoses). I cannot pull the caliper off of the rotor.
1. What may have caused the difficulty compressing the pistons and the tight brakes? I have a guess but would like your unbiased ideas.
2. How can I remove the calipers and find and fix the problem?
3. Bonus question: When compressing the pistons, bleeding brakes, etc., is it important to have the ignition on, i.e. to have the ABS module powered? (My OBD scanner isn't smart enough to talk to the ABS.) I wondered whether that's a factor.
I have a guess about the problem, based on this thread
04 trailblazer, brakes dragging after new pads, calipers, master cylinder
So, I took my TB to a guy who does my auto work to get the brakes improved. I had like they were a little weak and I tow my camper with it, so wanted it right for spring. he pulled all pads off, and odd thing, he told me both front calipers froze and even with clamps he couldn’t push them out...
gmtnation.com