Accessing Bottom of Engine Fuse Box

[joe110010]

Hey guys, trying to finish up an efan install and am having a little trouble pulling the top of the fuse box out to connect the key on and A/C wires. I have it lifted up but the large bundles come out on both sides, so flipping it over is proving difficult. Any tips or suggestions, or is there an easier or better way of accomplishing this than tapping directly in underneath?

 

[The_Roadie]

They make fuse sockets that plug in place of a fuse that you can tap onto the top of.

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[joe110010]

I may just go that route. I just thought maybe I was looking at the thing wrong how it comes apart if you can do it without disconnecting a bunch of the connectors.

 

[joe110010]

They make fuse sockets that plug in place of a fuse that you can tap onto the top of.

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In looking at the top of the fuse box, it looks like I would want Fuse 22, Ignition E for the ignition connection, and Fuse 30 for the A/C connection. The electrical diagram indicates the Ignition E fuse is hot on Run and Start, which is what I think I need. Does that sound right?

Also, the connectors I wanted from the bottom are B6 and F12 on the C2 connector - does anyone have a diagram to confirm those fuses correspondence to those connectors?

 

[The_Roadie]

In looking at the top of the fuse box, it looks like I would want Fuse 22, Ignition E for the ignition connection, and Fuse 30 for the A/C connection. The electrical diagram indicates the Ignition E fuse is hot on Run and Start, which is what I think I need. Does that sound right?

Fuse 22 under the hood is hot in RUN and START, along with 16, 18, 23, 29, 26, 53, 54, 20, 27, 54, and 28. AC compressor fuse 30 feeds the relay contact, but it's on the battery side, and is always powered up. What you need is on the compressor side of the relay going down to the clutch, if you need a high-going signal for compressor ON. That's connector C1, pin E12 for the 4.2, C1, D11 for the 5.3. If you need a LOW-going control signal for the AC, then pick the control signal going from the PCM to the relay coil, C2, F12 (4.2) or C1, D9, (5.3)

Also, the connectors I wanted from the bottom are B6 and F12 on the C2 connector - does anyone have a diagram to confirm those fuses correspondence to those connectors?

C2, B6 is indeed the output of fuse 22. Fuse 30 is on the wrong side of the coil for what you need. You might pick it up easier at the relay blade. Pull the relay, wrap a thin wire around the blade, then plug it back in. If an engineer says it's OK, it's not ghetto. Although you should know I have had unsatisfactory experiences with an efan experiment in hot offroad conditions, and am not an enthusiast of the HP-savings claims.

 

[joe110010]

Fuse 22 under the hood is hot in RUN and START, along with 16, 18, 23, 29, 26, 53, 54, 20, 27, 54, and 28. AC compressor fuse 30 feeds the relay contact, but it's on the battery side, and is always powered up. What you need is on the compressor side of the relay going down to the clutch, if you need a high-going signal for compressor ON. That's connector C1, pin E12 for the 4.2, C1, D11 for the 5.3. If you need a LOW-going control signal for the AC, then pick the control signal going from the PCM to the relay coil, C2, F12 (4.2) or C1, D9, (5.3)C2, B6 is indeed the output of fuse 22. Fuse 30 is on the wrong side of the coil for what you need. You might pick it up easier at the relay blade. Pull the relay, wrap a thin wire around the blade, then plug it back in. If an engineer says it's OK, it's not ghetto. Although you should know I have had unsatisfactory experiences with an efan experiment in hot offroad conditions, and am not an enthusiast of the HP-savings claims.

Ha thanks. I did read that about efans, but I think for my purposes it will be good, and this was going to be my second fan clutch replacement...

For the AC line, I just want the control signal from the PCM (grn/wht) to the relay. For the blade on the relay I would want the wire on pin 85 for signal in? Or does it matter between 85 and 86?

 

[joe110010]

I put the AC on post 85 of the AC relay. It started up and ran well, and the fan kicked in around 200, like it's supposed to. I did not run the AC, but it seems as if the fan is working properly on the electrical side.

Unfortunately the temp kept rising to about 230 and then steam billowed out - found out my water outlet connection is leaking badly and spraying all over everything. I tightened the bolts to the same torque as the thermostat, which was 89 in lbs I think, since my manual doesn't give a torque spec for it. Does anyone have the torque spec for those bolts? I replaced the gasket so it's a new one in there.

EDIT: Went in and tightened down the sensor in the water outlet - I restarted and didn't see any leaks, so I think that was it, not the water outlet, but am still curious if I tightened the outlet bolts to correct spec.

PPS Special thanks to Roadie for the helpful info getting my electrical connections squared away.

 

[The_Roadie]

I don't see anything in the shop manual about the water outlet connection, assuming you mean the radiator hose fitting that doesn't contain the thermostat. The heater hose fittings are 33 ft/lbs.

I don't see why even a loose fitting would allow the temp to rise above 210. Are you using a scangauge or just watching the dash? Do you have all the airflow leaks and gaps sealed on your efan shroud?

 

[joe110010]

I don't see why even a loose fitting would allow the temp to rise above 210. Are you using a scangauge or just watching the dash? Do you have all the airflow leaks and gaps sealed on your efan shroud?

Still overheating. I don't think it's a sealing issue because the temp kept rising while driving on the freeway even at low rpms. I have the pcmforless plug and play kit and apparently it maintains a proper operating temperature without modification. The outlet hose is leaking still but could not see it until it was hot enough to steam. I can fix that but I'm hoping the overheating could just be related to air in the cooling system.

 

[joe110010]

Update - I got the efan working, all good now, no temperature issues - holds steady at 196 per scan gauge. It was user error - the guy who keeps doing my repairs really does shoddy work. The outlet gasket was displaced - actually on the garage floor, and the coolant wasn't filled properly.

 

[ScarabEpic22]

IMHO it needs to warm up a bit more, the I6 should really run between 201-207F (199 MAYBE). My 02 sits between 201-207F all the time. Believe me, Ive logged it enough over the years. But if its the P4L kit, I wouldnt worry about it.

Ive seen my SS go between 185-198 during normal driving in the 45-50F temps we have now. In the summer Ive seen 220F pulling a steep grade while towing (not good). The 5.3s should be the same.

 

[joe110010]

IMHO it needs to warm up a bit more, the I6 should really run between 201-207F (199 MAYBE). My 02 sits between 201-207F all the time. Believe me, Ive logged it enough over the years. But if its the P4L kit, I wouldnt worry about it.

Ive seen my SS go between 185-198 during normal driving in the 45-50F temps we have now. In the summer Ive seen 220F pulling a steep grade while towing (not good). The 5.3s should be the same.

I agree - I would prefer it to be a little warmer. But, even with the mechanical fan, my truck was almost always 198-201 though, what I felt was a little cool, even during the hot summer months. I looked at a lot of different things to see why it wasn't higher, even replaced cat, to see if would be a little hotter, and a little leaner, and eventually accepted after suggestion on these forums that it is fine. I've only had it running with the efan on a single cool night (low 50's here) so we'll see what kind of range it settles in over the longer term.

 

[tbuckalew14]

I'm having the same issue. AC relay blade was not working for me...PCM4LESS said to try and follow the directions for a better connection...I can't seem the get to the bottom of the fuse panel. I want to just yank the connector , but worried about breaking something.

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