A/C Compressor Install "Kit"--anything else?

gunrock

Original poster
Member
Mar 27, 2012
22
Hi Everyone,

I have someone coming over this weekend to help me out with some projects on the TB--well he will be doing the work, I'll be watching and learning. :smile:

One of them is an a/c compressor replacement. (I am taking TB to the dealer for a proper evac).

I'm picking up parts from advanced and wondering if I am missing anything:

A/C Compressor (the remaned one)
Drier/Acumulator
orifice tube (w/rear air)

I assume the a/c compressor comes filled with PAG oil, but is it just filled for testing or ready to go? What about the acumulator--does that require oil or does the oil from the compressor get mixed in once the system is sealed and charged?

There is also an o-ring/gasket kit 26740 . Do I need that? Advance's site says it doesn't fit my TB, but Rock Auto has the same thing as "Four Season's" brand and says it does.

I Just want to make sure I got every thing, to save all the running around parts places and save time for the person gracious enough to come over and do this for me.

Thanks,

gunrock
 

BRomanJr

Member
Dec 9, 2011
371
gunrock said:
Hi Everyone,

I have someone coming over this weekend to help me out with some projects on the TB--well he will be doing the work, I'll be watching and learning. :smile:

One of them is an a/c compressor replacement. (I am taking TB to the dealer for a proper evac).

I'm picking up parts from advanced and wondering if I am missing anything:

A/C Compressor (the remaned one)
Drier/Acumulator
orifice tube (w/rear air)

I assume the a/c compressor comes filled with PAG oil, but is it just filled for testing or ready to go? What about the acumulator--does that require oil or does the oil from the compressor get mixed in once the system is sealed and charged?

There is also an o-ring/gasket kit 26740 . Do I need that? Advance's site says it doesn't fit my TB, but Rock Auto has the same thing as "Four Season's" brand and says it does.

I Just want to make sure I got every thing, to save all the running around parts places and save time for the person gracious enough to come over and do this for me.

Thanks,

gunrock

Usually the compressor is shipped with a small amount of oil for assembly and needs to be filled based on the instructions included with it. Most compressors come with the oil in a small bottle to put in, but some don't. Check your package and read instructions.

The oil is kept within the compressor and only a small amount leaves unless there is a problem. Most times oil ends up in the condenser when the system goes low on freon and the oil eventually migrates back to the compressor when running properly. If you are changing the Accumulator, leave it empty.

The compressor should come with any new seals needed.
The orifice seal is re-usable and some come with a new o-ring(s).

The orifice you bought may be the one for the rear evaporator (there should be one for each evaporator).


You should not need a separate seal kit, usually when components require replacement seals/gaskets they will come with the components (as noted above). You should check your parts packaging.


The only thing you may be missing is the front orifice. (the same one used for vehicles without rear air)


IMPORTANT:
Don't forget, after you remove old parts and before you install any new parts, flush the condenser, all of the lines and both evaporators, especially if your compressor imploded.
 

tricguy007

Member
Dec 7, 2011
131
get ahold of 1800radiator they have a complete kit (compressor,dryer,o-rings,oil,orfice tube,and a can of flush(to flush the entire system)) all at a reseanable price
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,580
Ottawa, ON
BRomanJr said:
Usually the compressor is shipped with a small amount of oil for assembly and needs to be filled based on the instructions included with it. Most compressors come with the oil in a small bottle to put in, but some don't. Check your package and read instructions.

Correct

The oil is kept within the compressor and only a small amount leaves unless there is a problem. Most times oil ends up in the condenser when the system goes low on freon and the oil eventually migrates back to the compressor when running properly. If you are changing the Accumulator, leave it empty.

As per the attached list of system capacities, when you replace the accumulator, you must add the appropriate amount of oil that is trapped in the desiccant bag.

The compressor should come with any new seals needed.

correct

The orifice seal is re-usable and some come with a new o-ring(s).

Seals are NEVER reusable. Replace whenever any connection is opened.

The orifice you bought may be the one for the rear evaporator (there should be one for each evaporator).

Wrong. The rear is controlled by an expansion valve.

You should not need a separate seal kit, usually when components require replacement seals/gaskets they will come with the components (as noted above). You should check your parts packaging.

Correct. Seal kits are for replacing all the seals in the system for a major overhaul or complete system flush requiring opening several connection points.

The only thing you may be missing is the front orifice. (the same one used for vehicles without rear air)

Incorrect. Probably the one you got is for the front. They go by colour. The one you would need is a yellow for systems with rear A/C. Those with only front A/C require a white orifice tube. Again, the rear does not use an orifice tube.


IMPORTANT:
Don't forget, after you remove old parts and before you install any new parts, flush the condenser, all of the lines and both evaporators, especially if your compressor imploded.

You only need a flush if the compressor mechanically failed and sent pieces of itself through the system, the system was left open (disconnected hoses) for a period of time allowing it to get contaminated or the amount of oil is unknown. Flushing is not a routine procedure. In fact, because of their construction, you can't even flush condensers to remove pieces of the compressor and is recommended to simply replace it. The evaporator is protected from large pieces by the orifice tube, which has its own screen.


One thing you might want to add is a filter to protect the compressor. Most rebuilders require that one be installed for the warranty to be valid. And if you really want to find out how to do this, you can follow the link to the manuals and everything is pretty much explained in there.
 

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Royalwapiti

Member
Jul 16, 2012
82
I was investigating this same thing. The Advanced Auto parts guy said to get my warranty, I would need to do what you have above, but also need to replace the rear expansion valve. I was debating whether to say screw the warranty.
 

Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,580
Ottawa, ON
Looked up 4 Season's warranty info and he's right:

Compressors 2 years/24,000 miles. Heater cores and fan clutches 12 month/12,000 miles. All other parts 120 days. Commercial, heavy duty, or fleet use - Compressors 12 month. IMPORTANT A/C COMPRESSOR WARRANTY NOTE: In order to ensure that proper warranty credit is issued if needed, the compressor installation instructions must be adhered to. All compressor defects must show proof of purchase of an Orifice Tube/Expansion Valve, Drier, and Approved A/C System Flush or a Work Order showing the purchase of these items and that the system was flushed using approved procedures.

If you know that the system is clean (i.e. old compressor didn't self destruct), I would just buy the orifice tube and expansion valve (~$12 total) as well as a flush on the same bill as the compressor for the warranty. A lot can happen in two years.
 

gunrock

Original poster
Member
Mar 27, 2012
22
Thanks everyone. The only thing I don't have is the expansion valve for the rear, I do have the yellow orifice.

I was going to do the flush for the warranty, but I may skip that-I am pretty certain only the pulley/clutch plate went bad as the ac was still performing flawlessly (rotating by hand, pulley felt like it had sand in it). The the last time I fired up the truck to show someone, the clutch would no longer engage, however. The ac compressor warranty is only one year, I have a 152K on the TB and plan on getting a bigger tow vehicle in a year or so anyway. Since the system should still be clean, I may just skip the expansion valve too, unless I can easily replace it.

I drove the truck the first day with the AC on before I knew what it was and drove it two more days with ac off, but then the sound got so loud, I quit driving the truck all together until I get the compressor replaced.

Thanks for the valuable information, you guys are awesome.

gunrock
 

Camdo

Member
May 16, 2015
80
I am about to do the same as OP to my 2005 GMC Envoy 4.2L SLT. Collecting all items needed so I have it at hand when doing the job. The manual says (page 1-29) to lubricate the A/C seals with 525 viscosity mineral oil. I never see mention of this in any posts or videos I have watched and wondering what people are doing for lubrication when installing new seals?
 
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Mooseman

Moderator
Dec 4, 2011
25,580
Ottawa, ON
I always lube them with PAG oil. Certainly doesn't hurt.
 
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