So the front driver side of the vehicle creeks when applying the brakes. It has been doing this for a while and after searching for the sound I think it is the front drivers caliper. I did a brake job on this over a year ago and did everything right so none of that.
It does not look like they really have any specific rebuild 'kits'. You can purchase the seal 'kits' and a piston so I suppose that is the rebuild kit. I was really thinking about rebuilding what I have but I really cannot deal with any downtime right now so it looks like I am going down the path of re-manufactured calipers. I did not want to deal with opening up the caliper and then the cylinder is bad, or I do not have the right parts, etc.
It looks like rockauto has a huge selection of re-manufactured brake calipers including ACDELCO remans.
Anyone have any advice on this? I was thinking about just doing the front two, the rears seem just fine but it would be no thing to do the rears.
It looks like for the front two for this vehicle are:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=889818&cc=1424281&jsn=569
ACDELCO 18FR1891 {#19141933} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Front Left; Trailblazer Base Model
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=888495&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR1893 {#19141935} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Front Right; Trailblazer Base Model
They are 40.89 a piece with a 45.00 core. That in my eyes is a decent deal. I know it is not a huge amount of working making them new but I am thinking they would do a bit more work then someone like me would do re manufacturing them. It looks like they come with new crush washers too.
I can get the rear set for about the same:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=959140&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR2079 {#19156693} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Rear Left
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=959067&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR2080 {#19156694} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Rear Right
One of the things I do not know is that there are wheel bases listed. I just have the LT model as stated in the topic. Do I need to go measure my wheel base? They have things like 129.0" Wheelbase and 113.0" wheelbase. These are only on the listings for the other re-manufactures.
Speaking of that, if you look through this list: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,4.2l+l6,1424281,brake/wheel+hub,caliper,1704
They have quite a decent amount of (re)manufactures that build these things, some of them are 'posi-quite' and powder coated. Any recommendations?
Do I need to replace the pads? Looking at them yesterday there is no damage and they are fairly new. I really do not think I need to.
I know I need to bleed the brakes after this. I have bled brakes before with the push the pedal down, hold, and close method. I was thinking about getting something like this though so I could do it on my own if ever needed: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html What do you think?
I can use it to test vacuum too. The only thing I know is that after bleeding the brakes is to engage the ABS system too.
I was also thinking about replacing the final run brake lines. The car has 170k on it and those lines are OEM. They have no rust but I have heard about the rubber getting weak. I know the TB has a soft pedal (but it works) but I am wondering if this could be a contributor. I have had the brakes professionally bled at one point thinking it was an issue but sometimes it seems like the pedal will go pretty far, far enough to make me uncomfortable. The vehicle has never had a problem stopping.
It does not look like they really have any specific rebuild 'kits'. You can purchase the seal 'kits' and a piston so I suppose that is the rebuild kit. I was really thinking about rebuilding what I have but I really cannot deal with any downtime right now so it looks like I am going down the path of re-manufactured calipers. I did not want to deal with opening up the caliper and then the cylinder is bad, or I do not have the right parts, etc.
It looks like rockauto has a huge selection of re-manufactured brake calipers including ACDELCO remans.
Anyone have any advice on this? I was thinking about just doing the front two, the rears seem just fine but it would be no thing to do the rears.
It looks like for the front two for this vehicle are:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=889818&cc=1424281&jsn=569
ACDELCO 18FR1891 {#19141933} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Front Left; Trailblazer Base Model
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=888495&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR1893 {#19141935} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Front Right; Trailblazer Base Model
They are 40.89 a piece with a 45.00 core. That in my eyes is a decent deal. I know it is not a huge amount of working making them new but I am thinking they would do a bit more work then someone like me would do re manufacturing them. It looks like they come with new crush washers too.
I can get the rear set for about the same:
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=959140&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR2079 {#19156693} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Rear Left
http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=959067&cc=1424281
ACDELCO 18FR2080 {#19156694} Professional Durastop|Friction Ready|Remanufactured
Rear Right
One of the things I do not know is that there are wheel bases listed. I just have the LT model as stated in the topic. Do I need to go measure my wheel base? They have things like 129.0" Wheelbase and 113.0" wheelbase. These are only on the listings for the other re-manufactures.
Speaking of that, if you look through this list: http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...,4.2l+l6,1424281,brake/wheel+hub,caliper,1704
They have quite a decent amount of (re)manufactures that build these things, some of them are 'posi-quite' and powder coated. Any recommendations?
Do I need to replace the pads? Looking at them yesterday there is no damage and they are fairly new. I really do not think I need to.
I know I need to bleed the brakes after this. I have bled brakes before with the push the pedal down, hold, and close method. I was thinking about getting something like this though so I could do it on my own if ever needed: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html What do you think?
I can use it to test vacuum too. The only thing I know is that after bleeding the brakes is to engage the ABS system too.
I was also thinking about replacing the final run brake lines. The car has 170k on it and those lines are OEM. They have no rust but I have heard about the rubber getting weak. I know the TB has a soft pedal (but it works) but I am wondering if this could be a contributor. I have had the brakes professionally bled at one point thinking it was an issue but sometimes it seems like the pedal will go pretty far, far enough to make me uncomfortable. The vehicle has never had a problem stopping.
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