2003 Trailblazer Passlock reset

[hawkeye405]

Last week, my Tb ran fine at night but in the morning it wouldn't crank. Everything else worked, headlights, stereo dash lights. I checked all fuses and they were fine. Battery was at 12.5v. I replaced the ignition module but no change. I was able to run a hot wire from the battery to the starter relay and the starter would crank and crank but even with the key in the on position, it would not start. AAA said it was the Pass lock security system was activated. He tried to reset the Pass lock but wasn't able to do so and the Tb was towed to the dealer. The dealer said that my Auto Start was shorted out, charged me $168 and said that it might happen again. They had no other explanation for what was causing the no crank issue.

Last night, the same thing happened even without the shorted module the dealer took out. the dash lights that are on are the battery light, check engine and security light. The fuel gauge is at zero while the other gauges are at normal operating position.

Can anyone here help please?

 

[budwich]

IF the gage is reading zero, it is possible that you aren't getting a connection to the fuel pump / sender.

"standard no start procedure" is to check for fuel delivery, check for spark, and lastly, check for mechanicals (ie. compression). Try spraying starting fluid to see if it will run. With key in just "on" (ie. not start), is your check engine light ON and does it stay on "forever"... it should. Other area is the ignition switch, common failure.... battery light on appears to indicate battery / charge problems.... did they check it?

I would be "suspicious" of your "dealer charge"... it appears they have done nothing...

 

[Mooseman]

When you try to start it, do you have the padlock icon on or flashing?

 

[hawkeye405]

IF the gage is reading zero, it is possible that you aren't getting a connection to the fuel pump / sender.

"standard no start procedure" is to check for fuel delivery, check for spark, and lastly, check for mechanicals (ie. compression). Try spraying starting fluid to see if it will run. With key in just "on" (ie. not start), is your check engine light ON and does it stay on "forever"... it should. Other area is the ignition switch, common failure.... battery light on appears to indicate battery / charge problems.... did they check it?

I would be "suspicious" of your "dealer charge"... it appears they have done nothing...

 

[hawkeye405]

Bud Wichita, the engine doesn't even crank

 

[hawkeye405]

When you try to start it, do you have the padlock icon on or flashing?

No, just the Security light comes on and stays on Mooseman

 

[hawkeye405]

I would be "suspicious" of your "dealer charge"... it appears they have done nothing...

budwich, the dealer said that the remote start system shorted so the remove the small black box which was part of the remote start system.

 

[Mooseman]

No, just the Security light comes on and stays on Mooseman

That's what I meant, the security light. Try a security relearn. It sometimes loses it.

1. Turn ignition on.
2. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
3. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
4. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
5. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
6. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
7. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
8. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
9. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
10. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
11. Vehicle has now learned the new password. Start the engine.

 

[budwich]

budwich, the dealer said that the remote start system shorted so the remove the small black box which was part of the remote start system.

but if the problem happened again with it gone, then they have done nothing but looks like what appears as a "guess and a charge". Anyways, hopefully you can get to the "root cause". Try things as suggested, but also look at the ignition switch / replacement.... and check the battery.

 

[hawkeye405]

You're right about the dealer. I had the battery tested and I replaced the ignition switch, still nothing. Last night I removed the Ultra Start system completely and put all wires back to factory specs. The ground pin on the starter relay is supposed to ground when you turn the key on to start. Mine doesn't. Since I desperately need the truck for work, it was towed back to the Chevy dealer to fix what I paid them too. I should hear from them later today.

 

[hawkeye405]

That's what I meant, the security light. Try a security relearn. It sometimes loses it.

1. Turn ignition on.
2. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
3. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
4. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
5. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
6. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
7. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
8. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
9. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
10. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
11. Vehicle has now learned the new password. Start the engine.

I did just that with the charger on the battery so it doesn't drain. The Security light never went off. This is just terrible. I bought the Tb new in 2002 and took great care to prolong it's life. I never had to worry if it'll start even on the coldest Chicago days. I'm lucky that it didn't start at home and not somewhere else

 

[budwich]

You're right about the dealer. I had the battery tested and I replaced the ignition switch, still nothing. Last night I removed the Ultra Start system completely and put all wires back to factory specs. The ground pin on the starter relay is supposed to ground when you turn the key on to start. Mine doesn't. Since I desperately need the truck for work, it was towed back to the Chevy dealer to fix what I paid them too. I should hear from them later today.

:-( there are some "wire work arounds" for the passlock on some vehicle but to me, there should be NO guessing by a dealer as they should have the troubleshooting aids to resolve the issue fairly "easily". It would appear that perhaps the "ignition feedback" to the passlock system isn't working. If I understand correctly, it is a "resistive feedback" which could mean a poor connection will make this fail. I hope they didn't get an "open ended work order"... :-(

 

[Mooseman]

Yeah, like they should have been able to pinpoint where Passlock is failing. Could be a failure in the lock mechanism sensor and making it think it's been tampered. That's why a lot of us have it disabled when we get the PCM tuned because one day it could leave you stranded 500 miles away from civilization.

 

[budwich]

You're right about the dealer. I had the battery tested and I replaced the ignition switch, still nothing. Last night I removed the Ultra Start system completely and put all wires back to factory specs. The ground pin on the starter relay is supposed to ground when you turn the key on to start. Mine doesn't. Since I desperately need the truck for work, it was towed back to the Chevy dealer to fix what I paid them too. I should hear from them later today.

when you say you replaced the ignition switch... was it the whole case or just the "tumbler/keyed" portion. IF you did just the keyed unit then the maybe the problem lies with the sensor which is part of the case. Again, the dealer should have this figured out without guessing.

I think it should also be noted, that costs at the dealer can get out of hand easily especially when they start "suggesting" parts replacements. I would be weary of doing too much for little return. Obviously, a remote starter is able to "fool" the system into believing a good "start" has occurred and the internet has a few "suggestions" on wire work arounds (which appear relatively simple) so a "wholesale" replacement of a number of steering components (along with labor) should not be a "priority" unless you deem that's where you want to go (ie. getting your vehicle back to "factory"... this could be expensive and of limited value in terms of operation... as others have pointed out that they have "turned off" the "feature").
Of course, it is understandable that you need the issue resolved permanently but again at what cost... so just be aware.

 

[Mooseman]

When Passlock is active, it stops the starter relay from working (as you saw) and also won't power the fuel pump so it prevents it fro starting on two levels.

Hopefully the dealer will do good on you by not charging again for the diagnostic. Please do come back with the results as this could be useful for someone else.

 

[Jerod087]

That's what I meant, the security light. Try a security relearn. It sometimes loses it.

1. Turn ignition on.
2. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
3. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
4. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
5. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
6. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
7. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
8. Attempt to start the engine, and then release the key to the “ON” position.
9. Observe the “SECURITY” indicator light. After 10 minutes the “SECURITY” indicator light will turn off.
10. Turn ignition to the “OFF” position, and wait 10 seconds.
11. Vehicle has now learned the new password. Start the engine.

Mooseman this infact worked for me it took a third try after I installed my new computer I received for $146 from FS1 Inc (just trying to mention a company that actually flashed a new computer correctly). I was nervous about getting it online but she's running great now! Took it down the street and it's been running for 45m no codes. I also cleaned the throttle body too. Thanks for posting this!

 

[Mooseman]

If you replaced the PCM, you will likely get a code that will also require a CASE relearn. Unfortunately, that requires a scanner able to to this or a Tech 2.