2003 TB won't start unless hatchback is open all the way

mrrsm

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Oct 22, 2015
8,527
Tampa Bay Area
When "Time (and Moolah) " Permits... Consider investing in an inexpensive Automotive Wire Kit that includes pretty much all of the Standard Colors (From 10-12 Colors) and in the correct AWG (American Wire Gauge) gauges (and Lengths) for doing any and all Wire Repairs that may be revealed as your investigation proceeds. There are quite a few applications where having all of this gear handy around The Farm would not be a bad idea...either. :>)

Unlike the Common Electrical Wire for Indoor Electrical applications being temporarily used in your Ground Wire Substitution... Auto Gauge Wire is meant for use in the Harsh, High Temperature Environments "Under The Hoods" of Cars and Trucks (and Farm Equipment) and features Bonded Insulation, Resistant to Damage.

Also, insisting upon only ever using the "Solid Copper" flavors of AWG Wiring in all situations versus the less reliable and less durable "Copper Clad" Aluminum Wire that is a sad and sub-standard alternative is the REAL Wire Conductor Version you will want to choose and stick with:

Automotive Wire Kits:

Butane Soldering Kits:

Automotive Solder:

Automotive Shrink Tubing Insulation:

As you become more familiar with using an inexpensive spool of REAL Lead-Rosin Core Solder and applying the Shrink Tubing Insulation over the wire lengths BEFORE you begin the work ...you will find that as it Seals and Melts around the Newly Bonded Soldered wires, it will give you lasting Peace of Mind and you'll not have to look over your shoulder too often wondering if any "Barrel Nuts" hiding Twisted Wires inside may work loose over time.... and come back to haunt you at the most inconvenient time.... ( Like the Blue One adjacent the Red Arrow in your original image).

And... Trimming away those Frayed Temp Ground Wire ends at the Fender Well Bolt will prevent surprise finger and hand injuries by getting snagged on things later on as well (those Loose Ends are all within those Red & Yellow Circles):

SOLDERANDSHRINKTUBINGOHERE.jpg

This Video is a Good Primer for how to Solder Automotive Wiring... along with knowing that once you get the hang of it and find out that it is just as easy to do these jobs in a more permanent and protected way... you will seldom have to re-visit it later on for continuing problems. Remember to use a copious "Dollop" of Flux Paste on and in every soldered wiring joint:


EDIT: Monday, August 12th, 2024 @ 4:23 PM EST.

One Last Suggestion... When working on Repairs due to Rodent Damage... Ensure that if you have recently been EATING... To Thoroughly Wash Your Hands and perhaps... even Wear the M11 Nitrile Gloves while working Solder Jobs in order to avoid Transferring the Food Odors-Grease from "McDonald's French Fries", etc. onto the areas being Repaired.

It is very likely that the North American Deer Mouse can smell an Old French Fry through Four Feet of Cold Rolled Steel! Recently, @Mooseman documented the incidents of GM - GMC Vehicles using SOY Products in the creation of their Engine Harnesses that would obviously add to the attraction of Rodents constantly Gnawing to wear down their ever growing, razor sharp Incisors.

The most effective Mouse and Rat Deterrent is to deposit Pre-Filled Fabric Pouches soaked with Peppermint Oil and placed in and around the likely areas where leaves, twigs and nesting materials might collect. The Peppermint Oil seems to interfere with the Mice and Rat's Sense of SMELL and seriously discourages their taking up residence "Under The Hood". Available in variety via THIS Link on Amazon:


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Last edited:

L3092

Original poster
Member
Aug 6, 2024
19
Arkansas
Hmmm... Including "Farm = Possible Rodents setting up a Luv-Nest Under The Hood" and Gnawing on the Wiring and Connectors... vs. "The Strange Electrical Behaviors" like the Doors intermittently Locking & Un-Locking, Reduced Power from damaged Throttle Body Wiring and the APP Mis-Match for the Accelerator Pedal for REP, etc.

Use an N-95 Face Mask, M11 Nitrile Gloves and Eye Protection if you get to looking closely under there for any signs of Mice Nests, Feces, Urine, Saliva etc. ... avoid using Compressed or Canned Air to Blow Out Nesting Areas and risk making the *Stuff* airborne enough to inhale...for Health Reasons = AVOIDING HANTA VIRUS LUNG INFECTION (HPS).
I had a Dodge Van when I lived in North Louisiana that was literally DESTROYED by rodents... so I know exactly what you're talking about. The entire wiring harness was eventually destroyed. I could never find a way to put an end to it. I DID find mice feces next to the fusebox, and I did find one piece of plastic that appeared to have been gnawed on... but as of right now.. I have not seen any wires that appear compromised.. however, I really haven't had enough time to get that far yet.
 
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L3092

Original poster
Member
Aug 6, 2024
19
Arkansas
@L3092

There is a fuse box under your rear seat. Flip up the seat and wrestle the cover off that fuse box. Find the fuse I circled in the attached image. Take out that fuse. The front doors and the rear hatch may still lock on you but the rear doors cannot lock or unlock without that fuse, except if you move the lock buttons manually.

If you do lock them manually be sure to leave at least one unlocked before leaving the vehicle or you may get locked out !!
.

At least you can stop leaving a window down while we figure out the issue(s) :wink:

View attachment 114135
Oh my gosh! This will be life changing!!!!!!! THANK YOU!
 

L3092

Original poster
Member
Aug 6, 2024
19
Arkansas
When "Time (and Moolah) " Permits... Consider investing in an inexpensive Automotive Wire Kit that includes pretty much all of the Standard Colors (From 10-12 Colors) and in the correct AWG (American Wire Gauge) gauges (and Lengths) for doing any and all Wire Repairs that may be revealed as your investigation proceeds. There are quite a few applications where having all of this gear handy around The Farm would not be a bad idea...either. :>)

Unlike the Common Electrical Wire for Indoor Electrical applications being temporarily used in your Ground Wire Substitution... Auto Gauge Wire is meant for use in the Harsh, High Temperature Environments "Under The Hoods" of Cars and Trucks (and Farm Equipment) and features Bonded Insulation, Resistance to Damage.

Also, insisting upon only ever using the "Solid Copper" flavors of AWG Wiring in all situations versus the less reliable and less durable "Copper Clad" Aluminum Wire that is a sad and sub-standard alternative is the REAL Wire Conductor Version you will want to choose and stick with:

Automotive Wire Kits:

Butane Soldering Kits:

Automotive Solder:

Automotive Shrink Tubing Insulation:

As you become more familiar with using an inexpensive spool of REAL Lead-Rosin Core Solder and applying the Shrink Tubing Insulation over the wire lengths BEFORE you begin the work ...you will find that it Seals and Melts around the Newly Bonded Soldered wires will give you lasting Peace of Mind and not have to look over your shoulder too often wondering if any "Barrel Nuts" hiding Twisted Wires inside that may work loose over time.... come back to haunt you... ( Like the Blue One adjacent the Red Arrow in your original image).

And... Trimming away those Frayed Temp Ground Wire ends at the Fender Well Bolt will prevent surprise finger and hand injuries by getting snagged on things later on as well (those Loose Ends are all within those Red & Yellow Circles):

View attachment 114137

This Video is a Good Primer for how to Solder Automotive Wiring... along with knowing that once you get the hang of it and find out that it is just as easy to do these jobs in a more permanent and protected way... you will seldom have to re-visit it later on for continuing problems. Remember to use a copious "Dollop" of Flux Paste on and in every soldered wiring joint:

Thank you so much. This information is invaluable! Being able to potentially do my own repairs and do them correctly!
 
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