2000 GMC Sierra C3500 Build

[littleblazer]

Some extra footage from Sunday.

 

[brianlibby791]

Finished the 100 mile break in today, runs great and pulls hard. Dynomax bullet mufflers are on. Hint hint, they almost make it louder.. @littleblazer has the drivig footage and i think muffler videos so hopefully he puts those up soon.

 

[littleblazer]

 

[mrrsm]

If you Gentlemen have not been able to find Interior Components for the Doors... eBay might have what you are looking for at THIS link and the extensive pages that follow. Dammit Guys... That Newborn "383" Sounds GD Balllzy...

https://www.ebay.com/b/Interior-Door-Panels-Parts-for-2000-GMC-C3500/33696/bn_87225833?rmvSB=true

...and from the same listing(s)... A set of these "Ruby Red" Door panels would look Fine in that Truck:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-OEM...wptNavYDt&fits=Year:2000|Make:GMC|Model:C3500

 

[brianlibby791]

If you Gentlemen have not been able to find Interior Components for the Doors... eBay might have what you are looking for at THIS link and the extensive pages that follow. Dammit Guys... That Newborn "383" Sounds GD Balllzy...

https://www.ebay.com/b/Interior-Door-Panels-Parts-for-2000-GMC-C3500/33696/bn_87225833?rmvSB=true

...and from the same listing(s)... A set of these "Ruby Red" Door panels would look Fine in that Truck:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-OEM-15026300-Front-Right-Ruby-Red-Door-Skin-Panel-C-K-Series-Tahoe-Yukon/142738977639?hash=item213be7f367:g:tY0AAOSwptNavYDt&fits=Year:2000|Make:GMC|Model:C3500

We have both the ones out of the truck, just need a clip for the drivers side door rod and a window regulator for the passenger side. Just didn’t want everything together to need to take apart again.

 

[littleblazer]

What he said.

If you Gentlemen have not been able to find Interior Components for the Doors... eBay might have what you are looking for at THIS link and the extensive pages that follow. Dammit Guys... That Newborn "383" Sounds GD Balllzy...

https://www.ebay.com/b/Interior-Door-Panels-Parts-for-2000-GMC-C3500/33696/bn_87225833?rmvSB=true

...and from the same listing(s)... A set of these "Ruby Red" Door panels would look Fine in that Truck:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-GM-OEM-15026300-Front-Right-Ruby-Red-Door-Skin-Panel-C-K-Series-Tahoe-Yukon/142738977639?hash=item213be7f367:g:tY0AAOSwptNavYDt&fits=Year:2000|Make:GMC|Model:C3500

 

[Mooseman]

So how did you guys make out budget-wise? You initially planned for $2500.

Sure sounds sweet

 

[brianlibby791]

So how did you guys make out budget-wise? You initially planned for $2500.

Sure sounds sweet

If I remember correctly we spent like $4500? We had some price setbacks, such as not reusing the original heads. Truck still needs more (Handling wise) suspension needs to be gone through, rear tires, etc.

 

[Mooseman]

And I would imagine paint? Unless you want to keep advertising the pool business

Isn't that how it always goes?

 

[littleblazer]

So how did you guys make out budget-wise? You initially planned for $2500.

Sure sounds sweet

My original original budget 3 years ago was around 3000. If I didn't have to get new heads I probably could have hit that. I would have been more likely to reuse questionable parts.

 

[brianlibby791]

And I would imagine paint? Unless you want to keep advertising the pool business

Isn't that how it always goes?

Cab doesn't need paint, just a good buff will do. It's still a work truck but its a sleeper so the name will remain on the truck. As for the utility box, the boss wants to put a new utility box on in the future, but not yet.

 

[brianlibby791]

Got the hub caps primered today, what’s everyone’s take on color for them? I was thinking either matte black or gloss black.

 

[littleblazer]

 

[brianlibby791]

Next for the truck: Front rotors, pads, shocks, sway bar end links, sway bar bushings, fix the freeze plug leak, door panels and the vinyl floor matte getting cleaned.

 

[brianlibby791]

I guess you can say this is our victory burnout, right?

 

[littleblazer]

Lost overdrive yesterday coming down 195. 4300 at 80 was fun for a few miles...

 

[brianlibby791]

Lost overdrive yesterday coming down 195. 4300 at 80 was fun for a few miles...

Try 90 down rt18. That trans has done that since like 14’.

 

[littleblazer]

Try 90 down rt18. That trans has done that since like 14’.

The speedo said 95...

 

[Sparky]

Does OD just stop working but come back after things cool down, or is it shot?

 

[littleblazer]

Does OD just stop working but come back after things cool down, or is it shot?

If you shut off the truck it comes right back. The shift kit is supposed to help this but idk.

 

[Sparky]

Sounds almost electrical.

 

[brianlibby791]

If you shut off the truck it comes right back. The shift kit is supposed to help this but idk.

If you really think about it the truck just wants to always be running high rpm because its a #racetruck.

 

[littleblazer]

Sounds almost electrical.

Well one of the causes is oil leaking on the plug... and I know the timing cover still leaks...

 

[brianlibby791]

Just ordered all the suspension and brake parts yesterday, gonna be cleaning the truck up inside and out too in the coming weeks.

 

[brianlibby791]

Polished and waxed, also cleaned the interior so it isnt so dirty. Also did the brakes yesterday. Notice the cab lights are working now .

 

[mrrsm]

If you have yet to solve the Freeze Plug Problem mentioned in Post# 134:

If you need a permanent solution to the leaking Frost/Freeze/Expansion Core Plug problem… Dorman Brass plugs are the way to go. Here is the link to the ones available individually for your Engine Block from RockAuto… and Melling also has a listing there for some that are slightly Over-Sized if the need arises that the stock steel or even the Brass ones will not plug the hole in the Engine Block and seal properly.

I like to coat insert edges of these plugs with the Permatex High-Tack Non-Hardening Gasket Sealer as this stuff will resist EVERYTHING that can make any seals and gaskets and plugs like these fail over time ...just prior to gently and uniformly pounding the Core Plugs back into Cast Iron Engine Blocks ...and the OTC Frost Plug Tool Kit is the one you want to get this job finalized the right way:

For the Dorman Brass Freeze Plug(s):

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l+v8,1358928,engine,expansion+plug+/+set,5332

For the OTC Frost Core Plug Installer Tool Kit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XSGKYO/?tag=gmtnation-20

 

[littleblazer]

If you have yet to solve the Freeze Plug Problem mentioned in Post# 134:

If you need a permanent solution to the leaking Frost/Freeze/Expansion Core Plug problem… Dorman Brass plugs are the way to go. Here is the link to the ones available individually for your Engine Block from RockAuto… and Melling also has a listing there for some that are slightly Over-Sized if the need arises that the stock steel or even the Brass ones will not plug the hole in the Engine Block and seal properly.

I like to coat insert edges of these plugs with the Permatex High-Tack Non-Hardening Gasket Sealer as this stuff will resist EVERYTHING that can make any seals and gaskets and plugs like these fail over time ...just prior to gently and uniformly pounding the Core Plugs back into Cast Iron Engine Blocks ...and the OTC Frost Plug Tool Kit is the one you want to get this job finalized the right way:

For the Dorman Brass Freeze Plug(s):

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog...l+v8,1358928,engine,expansion+plug+/+set,5332

For the OTC Frost Core Plug Installer Tool Kit:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XSGKYO/?tag=gmtnation-20


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That's exactly how the machine shop said they installed it. Just a freak thing I think.

 

[brianlibby791]

Heres some pictures of her at work today. She doesn’t like oil, keeps leaking even after the timing cover replacement.

 

[Sparky]

Where does it leak from?

Lots of black RTV

 

[littleblazer]

Where does it leak from?

Lots of black RTV

Around the balancer

 

[Sparky]

Front main seal?

 

[brianlibby791]

Front main seal?

We think the snout of the balancer. Its caked with black rtv.

Front main seal?

Yea.

 

[Capote]

View attachment 85056Polished and waxed, also cleaned the interior so it isnt so dirty. Also did the brakes yesterday. Notice the cab lights are working now .

She cleans up great!

 

[mrrsm]

Not sure whether or not you want to perform a “Redi-Sleeve” repair to the OD of your original Harmonic Balancer- Serpentine Crankshaft Pulley using a Sleeve Kit… or just replace it entirely with a Brand New HB with a fresh OD mating surface that will be more agreeable with the PTFE Front Seal… but Parts Geek has quite a variety of ACDelco OEM flavors further down on the linked page for around $72.00 that could make this part of the Red Truck Saga read something like:

“Oils Well...That Ends Well ...” :>)

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/gmc/c3500/engine_mechanical/engine_harmonic_balancer.html

 

[littleblazer]

Not sure whether or not you want to perform a “Redi-Sleeve” repair to the OD of your original Harmonic Balancer- Serpentine Crankshaft Pulley using a Sleeve Kit… or just replace it entirely with a Brand New HB with a fresh OD mating surface that will be more agreeable with the PTFE Front Seal… but Parts Geek has quite a variety of ACDelco OEM flavors further down on the linked page for around $72.00 that could make this part of the Red Truck Saga read something like:

“Oils Well...That Ends Well ...” :>)

https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2000/gmc/c3500/engine_mechanical/engine_harmonic_balancer.html

I would have used the original balancer to begin with but the one was balanced to the rotating assembly. But it appears that I can use the OEM. I'm wondering if the seal is slightly larger.

 

[mrrsm]

There would be nothing preventing you from using a "Redi-Sleeve" to sort of "plump up" the OD on whichever one is in there right now...as beyond a very thorough cleaning of the OD prior to installing the sleeve with its special adhesive... no additional machining is required... just a little TLC and due diligence when the sleeve is driven or slipped over the inner portion that passes through the PTFE Seal opening. No harm could come from doing this repair.

Keep in mind that it also would NOT hurt to slip some High Temp RTV into the inner Woodruff Key Slot of the HB where the two dovetail together... as then no Motor Oil can work its way in between and get out past that "keyhole" prior to installing the Harmonic Balancer back on the nose of the Crankshaft:

Here are an assortment of videos on how this is best accomplished:

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=redi+sleeve+installation

 

[littleblazer]

Lots happened this weekend. We filed down the balancer so it seats all the way, that seemingly fixed 90% of the leaks. I buffed the boxes then laid floorpolish on the base because there is no clear left. Overall I forgot how much of a beast this thing is. Drove it 150 miles to work without a hitch. It literally just keeps pulling.

 

[mrrsm]

In anticipation of "The Red Truck 2.0" Thread...

@littleblazer ...To answer the question and inquiry about “Does anyone have experience with Re-Building The 4L80E Transmission?” ...THIS Link could prove VERY informative and helpful:

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-...ction-4l80e-rebuilding-junkyard-transmission/

 

[mrrsm]

Here are some On Topic 4L80E Videos that you MIGHT can MAYBE use for “The Red Tuck 2.0” Thread:

GM 4L80E to 5.3L Transmission Swap:

GM 4L80E Trans-Go Kit Installation:

GM 4L80E Torque Converter Installation:

GM 4L80E Wiring Conversion:

 

[littleblazer]

Here are some On Topic 4L80E Videos that you MIGHT can MAYBE use for “The Red Tuck 2.0” Thread:

GM 4L80E to 5.3L Transmission Swap:

GM 4L80E Trans-Go Kit Installation:

GM 4L80E Torque Converter Installation:

GM 4L80E Wiring Conversion:

Theres the sloppy mechanics shift kit install too. Thanks for the posts. I'm searching for a core to rebuild so we can just swap it.