2000 GMC Sierra C3500 Build

[brianlibby791]

Morning all, im not too active on this forum but not for long. So if any of you know my cousin is littleblazer, we have an ex fleet truck shown below. The truck has sat the past 2 years since it has been taken off the road due to an engine knock. Us being us we have decided to build the engine for racing because #racetruck. This build is probably gonna be a sleeper build, keeping it as cheap as possible to make, the budget is $2500, most of which going into the engine. I will post the cart of engine hop ups we are doing so you can see how much of a monster this truck is gonna be.

We will also be doing a shift kit on the trans just because we can. Alone this truck was fast, fitted with 4:10 gears in the stock rear end this thing we hope will push low 13s in the 1/4 mile when its done.

If this thread is in the wrong section then I apologize.

Also, Merry Christmas!

 

[Sparky]

I like projects like this

 

[littleblazer]

I mean it's not like there's a section called members builds or anything.

 

[Sparky]

Good catch, missed that. Moved it

 

[littleblazer]

My reasoning for doing this is the frame and cab are rust free. Thing never was driven in the winter. On top of that we are starting with 4.10s and a 4l80e. Front end was redone 50k ago. It is the perfect block to start with being a 4 bolt roller vortec as well. I'm a little more optimistic. High 13s. Truck will be pretty light as it is a 2wd. Gonna be fun.

 

[Mounce]

What motor is in that one? The 99-02 series always confuses me. I'm assuming 5.3/6.0 though?

 

[brianlibby791]

What motor is in that one? The 99-02 series always confuses me. I'm assuming 5.3/6.0 though?

Vortec 5.7, L31 block. Its a 4 bolt main.

 

[brianlibby791]

I mean it's not like there's a section called members builds or anything.

Im not on this forum too often, you know that.

 

[Sparky]

1999 had the NBS chassis with the LS-based 5.3 for the 1500, but the 2500/3500 NBS chassis with the 6.0 didn't come until later. I thought 2000 was the first year for the newer stuff on those, but I guess not.

Are you going to keep the utility bed on the back or remove it for something else?

 

[littleblazer]

The 2000 was the half year but I believe 2001 also had it both ways. When they bought that truck it was bought solely because it was $1000 cheaper then the nbs in 01. Kind of like the crossover with the blazers and such.

 

[brianlibby791]

1999 had the NBS chassis with the LS-based 5.3 for the 1500, but the 2500/3500 NBS chassis with the 6.0 didn't come until later. I thought 2000 was the first year for the newer stuff on those, but I guess not.

Are you going to keep the utility bed on the back or remove it for something else?

Yup, and 2002 was the last year completely for that body style (3500hd only)

Littleblazer wants to do a wooden bed, bt me personally would like to retain the utility body, i think its more sleeper like but it will be discussed more in depth as the build goes on.

 

[Reprise]

A service body! Planning on leaving that on? If it's a Knapheide, it probably weighs about 1100 lbs or more (!) Leaving it on definitely gives it that "hey, look at that!" vibe - but it needs some serious lightening (and the aero - such as it is on a pickup - definitely doesn't help.)

Betting a late model Ford bed (aluminum) would provide a nice weight savings (plus give it more of a 'frankentruck' look, since it's going to be a track toy). If not, a GM bed would certainly weigh less, even though it's steel.

The Ford bed might be hard to find - but the service body could be sold to recoup costs. There's an attachment kit that goes with it - more weight savings.

Looked up the (current) specs for the L31 (apparently, it's still offered by GM Powertrain) - iron heads (rectangular port). 9.4:1 compression - I'd think that should provide room for a bit of milling, especially with dished pistons (assumption.) Aluminum heads would be even better, of course.

Forged con rods, nodular iron crank (I'd use it in favor of going spendy on a forged), 5150 billet cam (which I'm guessing is probably going to be tossed, in favor of something a little hotter).

The current ones are listed as LP / CNG, with 216hp / 308tq in the LP trim. Any idea what the gasoline versions have?

Since you're going in with a shift kit anyway, and this is for the track - what about a full manual VB conversion?

I have no idea what any of this would cost, but betting I'd spend through the $2500 budget in a heartbeat (not counting any $ made from selling the service body.) Subscribing to keep an eye on this build

 

[littleblazer]

The servi

A service body! Planning on leaving that on? If it's a Knapheide, it probably weighs about 1100 lbs or more (!) Leaving it on definitely gives it that "hey, look at that!" vibe - but it needs some serious lightening (and the aero - such as it is on a pickup - definitely doesn't help.)

Betting a late model Ford bed (aluminum) would provide a nice weight savings (plus give it more of a 'frankentruck' look, since it's going to be a track toy). If not, a GM bed would certainly weigh less, even though it's steel.

The Ford bed might be hard to find - but the service body could be sold to recoup costs. There's an attachment kit that goes with it - more weight savings.

Looked up the (current) specs for the L31 (apparently, it's still offered by GM Powertrain) - iron heads (rectangular port). 9.4:1 compression - I'd think that should provide room for a bit of milling, especially with dished pistons (assumption.) Aluminum heads would be even better, of course.

Forged con rods, nodular iron crank (I'd use it in favor of going spendy on a forged), 5150 billet cam (which I'm guessing is probably going to be tossed, in favor of something a little hotter).

The current ones are listed as LP / CNG, with 216hp / 308tq in the LP trim. Any idea what the gasoline versions have?

Since you're going in with a shift kit anyway, and this is for the track - what about a full manual VB conversion?

I have no idea what any of this would cost, but betting I'd spend through the $2500 budget in a heartbeat (not counting any $ made from selling the service body.) Subscribing to keep an eye on this build

A service body! Planning on leaving that on? If it's a Knapheide, it probably weighs about 1100 lbs or more (!) Leaving it on definitely gives it that "hey, look at that!" vibe - but it needs some serious lightening (and the aero - such as it is on a pickup - definitely doesn't help.)

Betting a late model Ford bed (aluminum) would provide a nice weight savings (plus give it more of a 'frankentruck' look, since it's going to be a track toy). If not, a GM bed would certainly weigh less, even though it's steel.

The Ford bed might be hard to find - but the service body could be sold to recoup costs. There's an attachment kit that goes with it - more weight savings.

Looked up the (current) specs for the L31 (apparently, it's still offered by GM Powertrain) - iron heads (rectangular port). 9.4:1 compression - I'd think that should provide room for a bit of milling, especially with dished pistons (assumption.) Aluminum heads would be even better, of course.

Forged con rods, nodular iron crank (I'd use it in favor of going spendy on a forged), 5150 billet cam (which I'm guessing is probably going to be tossed, in favor of something a little hotter).

The current ones are listed as LP / CNG, with 216hp / 308tq in the LP trim. Any idea what the gasoline versions have?

Since you're going in with a shift kit anyway, and this is for the track - what about a full manual VB conversion?

I have no idea what any of this would cost, but betting I'd spend through the $2500 budget in a heartbeat (not counting any $ made from selling the service body.) Subscribing to keep an eye on this build

The utility box has weight reduction. The 1/4 diamond plate bed rotted out completely about 10 years ago. Liquid shock is corrosive. In gas trim the l31 was 255 to and 300ish torque? We'll be boring over and going 383 I think. My problem with the box is that it's bad. If it was in good shape I'd leave it.

 

[brianlibby791]

The servi


The utility box has weight reduction. The 1/4 diamond plate bed rotted out completely about 10 years ago. Liquid shock is corrosive. In gas trim the l31 was 255 to and 300ish torque? We'll be boring over and going 383 I think. My problem with the box is that it's bad. If it was in good shape I'd leave it.

I just want people to be like “hey that guy has a truck with all his tools for his racecar” and then be like “Why is he staging it? Why is he doing a burnout in the burnout box? Why are his numbers faster than my 99 k20 swapped civic?”

I say we see what it runs with the box first and then worry about a wooden bed, after all we can just bold the plywood down to the cross member if needed.

 

[littleblazer]

I just want to build a motor. We could always source a decent box later too.

 

[Reprise]

I just looked up both of your profiles - our new member is all of 16yrs old Welcome, btw. You picked a helluva thread to kick things off with!

In gas trim the l31 was 255 to and 300ish torque? We'll be boring over and going 383 I think.

I think this is a good idea. Forgot that you could build a stroker. Although I guess that crank is going bye-bye after all, then (IIRC, you get a 383 with .030 over and a 400ci crank) So you're going to have some serious machine shop work going on. I think you have to use 400ci conn rods, too (?)

I just want people to be like “hey that guy has a truck with all his tools for his racecar” and then be like “Why is he staging it? Why is he doing a burnout in the burnout box? Why are his numbers faster than my 99 k20 swapped civic?”

I say we see what it runs with the box first and then worry about a wooden bed, after all we can just bold the plywood down to the cross member if needed.

Yep - the visual aspect of a service body on the track is awesome! Make sure to have someone capture it on video, when the time comes.

Not sure if a safety inspection is mandated on a dragstrip - if it is, then you may run into issues leaving the SB on, if the floor is rusted out - ?

I had an idea of cutting the floor out of a p/u bed and bracing the walls / tailgate (which is pretty much the same thing). Not sure if that would be allowed, either. Another thought (although I'm pretty sure they'd never allow it) - convert to a flatbed and chain up a vehicle on it (minus drivetrain, interior, etc.)

Keep us posted!

 

[littleblazer]

I just looked up both of your profiles - our new member is all of 16yrs old Welcome, btw. You picked a helluva thread to kick things off with!



I think this is a good idea. Forgot that you could build a stroker. Although I guess that crank is going bye-bye after all, then (IIRC, you get a 383 with .030 over and a 400ci crank) So you're going to have some serious machine shop work going on. I think you have to use 400ci conn rods, too (?)



Yep - the visual aspect of a service body on the track is awesome! Make sure to have someone capture it on video, when the time comes.

Not sure if a safety inspection is mandated on a dragstrip - if it is, then you may run into issues leaving the SB on, if the floor is rusted out - ?

I had an idea of cutting the floor out of a p/u bed and bracing the walls / tailgate (which is pretty much the same thing). Not sure if that would be allowed, either. Another thought (although I'm pretty sure they'd never allow it) - convert to a flatbed and chain up a vehicle on it (minus drivetrain, interior, etc.)

Keep us posted!

Will do. I think as long as the remains are secure it is fine. If crap goes flying off while driving that's another story. As far as the crank, summit has rebuilding kits with cranks that fit with little machining so it should be okay. mainly a little grinding on the block where the pan walls would be. 18cc dish for about 9.5 compression. Mild cam and some port matching as well as either an intake spacer or a marine intake. I'm thinking 360hp and 440 torque all said and done. With gearing and the right sized tires I should be able to get it to low 14s maybe high 13s. It should be about 5000lbs which I think can be done.

 

[brianlibby791]

I just looked up both of your profiles - our new member is all of 16yrs old Welcome, btw. You picked a helluva thread to kick things off with!



I think this is a good idea. Forgot that you could build a stroker. Although I guess that crank is going bye-bye after all, then (IIRC, you get a 383 with .030 over and a 400ci crank) So you're going to have some serious machine shop work going on. I think you have to use 400ci conn rods, too (?)



Yep - the visual aspect of a service body on the track is awesome! Make sure to have someone capture it on video, when the time comes.

Not sure if a safety inspection is mandated on a dragstrip - if it is, then you may run into issues leaving the SB on, if the floor is rusted out - ?

I had an idea of cutting the floor out of a p/u bed and bracing the walls / tailgate (which is pretty much the same thing). Not sure if that would be allowed, either. Another thought (although I'm pretty sure they'd never allow it) - convert to a flatbed and chain up a vehicle on it (minus drivetrain, interior, etc.)

Keep us posted!

Yessir only 16, been tinkering with stuff since a youngin.

Hopefully within the next 2 months the motor is finished being rebuilt and in the truck to go racing in march. I wanna get it on the track when the local one opens up for the season.

 

[littleblazer]

Yessir only 16, been tinkering with stuff since a youngin.

Hopefully within the next 2 months the motor is finished being rebuilt and in the truck to go racing in march. I wanna get it on the track when the local one opens up for the season.

You spelled weeks wrong.

 

[Reprise]

Lol... that took a minute to process. I thought you were being a bit rough on him.

 

[littleblazer]

Lol... that took a minute to process. I thought you were being a bit rough on him.

Nah. If all goes smoothly I think 2 weeks is a reasonable time line. 2 days for engine removal and installation. Week for rebuild and machining and then the rest for the shift kit, interior and all the other loose junk. It was a full service truck when parked so it should not be that far gone yet.

 

[brianlibby791]

Nah. If all goes smoothly I think 2 weeks is a reasonable time line. 2 days for engine removal and installation. Week for rebuild and machining and then the rest for the shift kit, interior and all the other loose junk. It was a full service truck when parked so it should not be that far gone yet.

Worse comes to worse, I finish interior if you go back to school and its not done. I just wanna clean the piss out of the vinyl and make it look decent.

 

[littleblazer]

What compression ratio would you guys recommend. Looking at 12 or 18 cc dish. So 10 or 9.4. I'm thinking go big or go home...

 

[brianlibby791]

What compression ratio would you guys recommend. Looking at 12 or 18 cc dish. So 10 or 9.4. I'm thinking go big or go home...

Lets go big, no reason to do something small..

 

[littleblazer]

Lets go big, no reason to do something small..

I just don't want to have to detune to get it to run on regular. I mean I can do it but I also don't want to have to run super in it all the time. Then again I can work up a tune for cam2 for track days. Throw some in the GTA too.

 

[Sparky]

More to it than just compression. The 5.3 is 9.6, the atlas 4.2 is 10.0, both run on 87.

 

[littleblazer]

More to it than just compression. The 5.3 is 9.6, the atlas 4.2 is 10.0, both run on 87.

Cast iron vs aluminum heads. Tune ups with timing curve. Dynamic compression ratio which will be a lot higher than stock. I get all that. It's 9.4 stock but dynamic cranking pressure is also a lot lower. All that'll really happen is power will be left on the table. The 5.3 and l6 have much better fueling systems and head and induction design... do I think it'll be fine? Yea. My math says I'll be okay. But a little margin of safety couldn't hurt.

 

[Reprise]

Funny, because I was going to post earlier, and mention fuel octane as a consideration.

What prompts me to post now is the revelation that this isn't going to be an exclusive track toy, but is intended to be street / strip. B/c of that, I'd recommend the option that will let you run crap gas, especially if this will be regularly driven on the street.

We've had a nice couple of years of cheaper gas, due to a supply glut (or lack of demand, if you like that better). But those days are now over (as you've probably seen yourself.) The longer-term outlook for gas shows all signs pointing to 'up', and remaining there for awhile.

 

[littleblazer]

Day one. Nothing was accomplished. We are discussing the name and just how budget the build shall be.

 

[brianlibby791]

Twas’ sent.. Right now it’s looking good, gonna be budgeted, but good..

 

[littleblazer]

How does everyone feel about the name ghetto cruiser?

 

[Reprise]

If you're going to leave the service body on, try for some tie-in with that. Something that would (eventually) lend itself to a nice banner graphic, perhaps.

I think you can do better than 'Ghetto Cruiser'. But it's your build!

 

[littleblazer]

If you're going to leave the service body on, try for some tie-in with that. Something that would (eventually) lend itself to a nice banner graphic, perhaps.

I think you can do better than 'Ghetto Cruiser'. But it's your build!

It was always called the ghetto cruiser by my aunt because of how beat up it is. The box. The passengers side window doesn't roll down without falling off the track and for a while the door handles inside didn't work at all so you had to unlock the door from outside. My dad always called it Betsy though.

 

[brianlibby791]

Muscle truck mk II still sticks with me.. even David Freiberger said that this body style is a perfect platform for a muscle truck.

 

[littleblazer]

 

[Sparky]

lol that gas gauge at 15 seconds.
Nice driver's seat too!

 

[Mooseman]

Cold start my butt. No snow on the ground and just a little breath fog. Try -28c. She does sound rough and at least one cylinder has weak compression.

 

[littleblazer]

Cold start my butt. No snow on the ground and just a little breath fog. Try -28c. She does sound rough and at least one cylinder has weak compression.

-10c is pretty cold for these parts lol.

It is hard to tell if it's weak compression or a bum injector. Truck has heavy misfires on 5 and 7 only at idle. Once you're going it is fine while still doing it a little. I think it is a spun main as the oil pressure is all wonky.

 

[brianlibby791]

-10c is pretty cold for these parts lol.

It is hard to tell if it's weak compression or a bum injector. Truck has heavy misfires on 5 and 7 only at idle. Once you're going it is fine while still doing it a little. I think it is a spun main as the oil pressure is all wonky.

Did you forget when I was backing up the slope that it sounded like a 6.5 Diesel. That’s when we started having funky oil pressure.

 

[littleblazer]

Did you forget when I was backing up the slope that it sounded like a 6.5 Diesel. That’s when we started having funky oil pressure.

That was always there. It just happened to get worse then.